Rep Power: 313

My rear sway bar is making A LOT of noise. The other day I decided to actually remove the bushings and grease them. It did not improve the noise, in fact I think it got a lot worse. Now, I want to remove the sway bar because I can't handle the noise any longer. I was just wondering if there are any serious issues that ill result from removing it. I want to take it off tomorrow when it's nice out! Oh yea and I'm just guessing that the sway bar bushings are making the noise, I have been under there, I'm pretty sure but not 100%.

 
Rep Power: 275

It will understeer more

 
Rep Power: 214

Dont take off the sway bar, and probably 99% sure that the reason its making noise is that the endlinks have went bad. I had the same problem with my front sway bar. I would hear a clunking sound from the front of the car and always thought that it was my ball joint in my strut but was wrong and it was my endlink. So if you are saying its your sway bar just replace the endlinks and it should fix it.

 
Rep Power: 313

I'm pretty sure. Though I have found a service bulletin for the rear bushing somewhere (forgot what it's called now). I might just go ahead tommorow and replace the endlinks and the bushing that I don't know the name of (and too lazy to look at the moment). I'll post back to see if it fixes it. Thanks for your help guys.

 
Rep Power: 812

endlinks can make noise too. i have aftermarket metal ones and have to spray lithium grease on them every so often. they still make a lil noise going over bumps, but not when driving. but keep the bar, it makes a noticable difference in handling. if your oem bushings are cracked, replace with new.

 
Rep Power: 313

I'll keep the bar. I guess it's actually called a Stabilizer bar according to Honda. I don't race my car, I don't even take corners fast, all I do in this car is commute to work and back and it drives me crazy listening to this noise!!!!!

 
Rep Power: 367

even if you don't go fast, if for any reason you need to swerve (pedestrians, or a guy that did not see you when changing lanes or the famous deer)and your car will behave different. so don't remove it or else test teh car after doing it.
it's the same as lowering the car and not using rear camber kit, car will go straight if input too fast. Not kidding, really...

 
Rep Power: 275

your endlinks should not be making any noise especially if they are aftermarket metal ones and they don't need grease. bushings yes endlinks no

Make sure they are tight if they are still making noise replace or figure out what is really making the noise cause endlinks should not make any noise

 
Rep Power: 812

they are the dezod metal links and they made a metallic creaking noise constantly while driving when new. but lithium spray grease solved the problem and the noise never came back. they were tightened properly also. i should just get some stock links or maybe moogs because i havent had good luck with the aftermarket ones. i already broke a set on the front bar. snapped in half.

 
Rep Power: 275

really sounds like cheap metal you can make them yourself pretty easy

 
Rep Power: 367

Just in case, i explained the rear dynamic camber changes in this other post.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...h-upgrade.html
Since the rear sway bar does intend to reduce body roll, it will reduce the negative camber gains in the rear suspension as well, so same applies.

 
Rep Power: 275

body roll is more important than camber in the back on these cars

 
Rep Power: 313

Never did get a chance to get under the car today. Now I won't get to it until at least the weekend seeing that they are calling for rain all weekend. So I will see then.

 
Rep Power: 367

well, never run without rear sway, always with the rear shocks in full stiff and progress sway, so i can't tell about it... 1" lowering got me in trouble with the exarcebated camber making it understeer a lot. I had to crank the front shock down to softest and have the springs underdamped or disconnect the front sway and crank the shock one click higher to have better spring control until i got tired and installed the rear camber corrector. But yeah, rear needs to be stiffer anyway you look at it. The body roll will change the rear camber and make it understeer more due to tire contact patch.
And yeah, i got carried away and and blabbing... sorry.

 
Rep Power: 313

Well, I'll tell you one thing. If this noise continues I won't be worried about a rear sway bar... I'm going to torch this car haha. It's getting pretty unbearable and I have no time to look at it... I'm also in no way in hell paying someone to fix it... maybe this weekend the weather won't be as bad as they say it is.

 
Rep Power: 275

Personally I think the front sway is pointless I do not run one it is really only good when you have to run a slalom.

you should always have a camber kit on your car when you lower it. I am 2 inches in the back and 1.8in the front.

be careful with rear stiff comment you might be able to go full stiff on the KYB's in the rear but you can't go full stiff in the rear on tokico D-specs and progress sports spring. especially if you have any bracing. the rear will come around on you and spin way too easy

 
Rep Power: 275

dbl post FTL civic forums still up to the same old **** so sad

 
Rep Power: 367

Yeah, learned the hard way... now much better. BTW, registered here 2 years after changing springs...
Yup, but not on my setup with the small drop eibachs and kyb's. civic now is just DD, I have a NB Miata for autoX

 
Rep Power: 367

even saddest is that i am not the worst case...

 
Rep Power: 275

^?

this site a long time ago probably in a galaxy far far away used to be awesome and never did things like dbl posts and it was called 7thgencivic.com