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I need to replace the stock control arms on my 03 coupe, can use some help with what is a good replacement for the stock arms. Thanks

 
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What arms are you talking about and why do you need to replace them? We need more information.

 
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Yeah front or reeeaaaar maaan

 
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sorry both. I"ve been gettin a poppin sound when turning. The lowering springs were set up fine so that wasn't it. Didn't get it put on a rack to get it completely looked at but dude who took a quick look at it for me said the control arms look pretty worn up front and that's prob it. If I have to replace the front i'd want to do the rear as well

 
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probably just the bushings. i dont see how a new lca would make popping noises by itself. he is probably just trying to rape your wallet.

 
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Are you getting a popping sound or a creaking sound? There is no need to replace the whole control arm.

Popping sound means that the shock/spring are the problem, even though you say they aren't. A creaking sound means that ball joint is dead and you need new ones.

 
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pics?

 
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I used to have a popping sound on my drivers side... but since its turned into a creaking sound, but only when the wheel is turned to the left, not when its coming back to center... soo, thinking ball joint? ...not the cv joint right? BTW, this only happens at sub parking lot speeds, at regular speeds I hear nothing.

 
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Jack that car up and wiggle the wheel back and forth. If it is loose, then it is the ball joint.

 
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I told the guy it might be the lowering springs, but he said they were fine, just looked at them quickly. But yeah i'm gettin a popping and creaking sound.

 
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Where are you located? Maybe you can get an experience 7thgen member over to help diagnose.

 
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alright... so no longer is it still at low speeds, its pretty much at any speed, yet more apparent at lower speeds where you can hear the springs occasionally pop on tight turns at lower speeds. I dont care about a pop/b0ing every now and again... although this ball joint **** starts to make me wonder... I replaced my wheel studs and had to pull the hub off... I had a full view of the wheel bearings and had that mini part of the axle out which goes into the bearings. Maybe I didn't reinstall in properly? I kinda had to pull on the wobbly thing behind it (for lack of a better word- drive shaft?) and use the slide hammer to knock it back in. I dunno if there was anything to look out for that I missed...? But i've noticed this creeking has become more apparent afterwards, it was there before I had messed with it.

 
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Change the ball joints, especially if you have 80k+ on your car.

 
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I'm at 70-something... need to calculate the actually mileage- gauge cluster swap, bleh.

When reinstalling the hub after pulling it off... Whats the correct re-install process?

 
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There is no process. Put axle in hub, put ball joint in control arm, put strut on hub, and tighten all nuts.

I told you how to check your ball joint. Wiggle the tire - if it is loose then you need to replace your ball joints.

Just drive here and we'll fix it together

 
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just replace the bushings

 
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could be ball joints, compliance bushings, could be the strut install did they line it up with the paint marks or the arrows? etc. You should do a visual and physical inspection on those.

 
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Is it a more of a rattle or metal on metal sound?? If so that a compliance bushing for sure.

Check your sway bar end links with an allen key and wrench to see if they need to be tightened. Thats makes a pop noise also. Learn from me,lol.

 
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way off topic what if my half shaft moves left and right by about two inches?

 
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I'd say you had a k series in there, you dont have a half shaft.

Triz, If you pulled the hub out of the bearings you should have taken the knuckle off and pressed the hub back in with a good hydraulic press to be sure it seated good. It you didnt get it all the way back in there I'm pretty sure the axle nut can come lose when the hub starts to seat or move around, you can side load the wheel bearing as well. The CV joints are usually good for some popping sounds during turns. You could have a very dangerous situation if you keep driving the car without knowing whats wrong. Also if its a ball joint and it breaks, that will ruin your day too, hehe. Front ends in FWD cars do 80% of the car's functions. The back wheels are basically like training wheels, if something in the front lets go its going to be an interesting ride. On the plus side it will be a sure tale of where that pesky noise is coming from.

 
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Ball joint = loose wheel and creaking when turning

Compliance bushing = creaking with lateral and horizontal movements, cracks in the bushing

CV joint = ticking while moving, grease all over the place

Spring = popping when turning

Shock = popping/clanging with horizontal moment, oil leaking from shock

 
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i had the same loud banging problems too.....i replaced the lower control arm bushings......the front ones were broke and the back were ok but i replaced anyway...

 
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i have loud creaking when turning but i think its bushings not ball joint.

 
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If you have creaking while turning and not moving, how could it be the bushings? Bushings don't move.

Bushings squeek, they don't creak. Creaking means that metal is hitting metal, like when door hinge needs oiling. Bushings make a sound like rubber is rubbing on metal. If it is creaking, especially when not moving, then it is your ball joints.

 
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my car have like metal rattle sound when taking slow turn
but none at high speed
ball joint ?

 
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How much would ball joints cost to replace?

 
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rob you forgot endlink's if your endlinks are not as tight as the can be the sway bar will pop and make a banging noise.

as for replacing the hub honda makes the wheel bearing really tight and it almost always comes apart and if you don't replace that bearing it usually goes bad in about three months slide hammers suck for changing wheel studs do what gerry said use a press.

Oh and Rob where's my ball joint separator?