best solution for separating tie rod
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best solution for separating tie rod
I'm lowering my car over springs break, and the only part of the job that scares me is separating the tie tod boot. I can walk to autozone, but not Honda, so I really need to get it right the first time. So, what's best? I have heard of people tearing the boot with a tie rod puller, but not air tools (but I don't have a compressor). Thanks guys.
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From: DFW
Rep Power: 264 go to autozone you can rent the tie rod end puller rental tool its like 14.00 deposit, when you get done with it return it and get your money back. trust me i work there i know this
here's a link to what i'm talking about
http://www.toolking.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=2212
here's a link to what i'm talking about
http://www.toolking.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=2212
Last edited by mrDFWmechanic; Mar 7, 2006 at 06:37 PM.
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look on the diy...definitely dont use an air tool that will tear the sucker apart. i used a tie rod separator but split it because the one i used was sharp on the edges. so i ordered new tie rod ends to replace it just in case. it wasnt a terrible split but just wanted to be safe. either use a tie rod separator or a tie rod puller IMO. good luck
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Rep Power: 257 I just hit the shock where the outer tie rod is and after like 5 blows i tapped underneith it and it came right out. I didnt need a seperator and Ive now used this same method to 3 7th gens trust me it works. right where the tie rod goes threw the shock hit it with a hammer.
Originally Posted by Slow Gold
I just hit the shock where the outer tie rod is and after like 5 blows i tapped underneith it and it came right out. I didnt need a seperator and Ive now used this same method to 3 7th gens trust me it works. right where the tie rod goes threw the shock hit it with a hammer.
My tie-rod did not came off as easy as many of you mentioned, I gave mine many hard wacks on the strut, sprayed lube yet its still stuck (maybe because of all the salt and crap from winter). I wiggle the strut and the tie rod, retry, and is still stunk on hard. The tie-rod separator was useless and it torn the boot slightly. I don't know what's wrong but it did finally came off forcefully with the screw/clamp type tie-rod separator or the so-called universal tie-rod end remover. It didn't fit right but it does the job.
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I have done suspension installs on a 7thgen atleast 20 times without ripping that boot. First take off the tie rod nut and cotter pin, then all you have to do is get a hammer and start wacking the actual strut... right where the tie rod goes through... you can use a rubber mallet but I use a regular hammer. Hit it enough times and it'll loosen the tie rod and you can pull it out with having to rip anything or rent/buy any new tools.
btw... i would advise against hammering the actually tie rod bolt... if you hit it to hard to many times, you'll warp the threads.
btw... i would advise against hammering the actually tie rod bolt... if you hit it to hard to many times, you'll warp the threads.
Last edited by R1Style; Mar 8, 2006 at 09:09 AM.
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Rep Power: 318 I use the screw type separator. It was about $10 at the local auto parts store. Make sure you get the one for compact cars since the standard one is too bit and dosen't fit.
I think Mex's DIY works the best. Spray some lube on the tie rod, and start whacking at it. Don't give it few whacks and give up. It takes around 20-30 good whacks. Use a regular hammer
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Rep Power: 0 I just hit the shock where the outer tie rod is and after like 5 blows i tapped underneith it and it came right out. I didnt need a seperator and Ive now used this same method to 3 7th gens trust me it works. right where the tie rod goes threw the shock hit it with a hammer.
^that worked perfectly for me twice already
^that worked perfectly for me twice already
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From: In Tejas byotch
Rep Power: 264 I would put a small piece of wood in between the tie rod and the seperator. When I did mine the sperator poped of and messed up the threads. I had to get it retapped and now it works fine.
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Originally Posted by InanimateCarbonRod
I use the screw type separator. It was about $10 at the local auto parts store. Make sure you get the one for compact cars since the standard one is too bit and dosen't fit.
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Rep Power: 0 I will probably use the item pictured because I really don't want to warp the threads from bashing it with a hammer and have to go to Honda for a new tie rod end. Thanks for all of the responses!
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Originally Posted by Slow Gold
I just hit the shock where the outer tie rod is and after like 5 blows i tapped underneith it and it came right out. I didnt need a seperator and Ive now used this same method to 3 7th gens trust me it works. right where the tie rod goes threw the shock hit it with a hammer.
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From: Oregon
Rep Power: 347 Mex's method worked like a charm
1. 3 second shot of WD-40
2. 5 hard hits with a metal hammer
3. Slight tap up on the tie rod bolt and it popped up like a mexican jumping bean
1. 3 second shot of WD-40
2. 5 hard hits with a metal hammer
3. Slight tap up on the tie rod bolt and it popped up like a mexican jumping bean
DO NOT HAMMER! u will damage the tie rod end and will cost u more in the long run believe me. I damaged mine and had to replace the tie rod. It was 2 hard to replace. Had to take it to autozone cost me $230.00.
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From: Boise, Idaho
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Originally Posted by cubanmike26
If you would remove and re-install the whole suspension on your own for the first time, how long would this take approximately?
rear suspension 45 minutes
Tools and exp will varry
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From: Oregon
Rep Power: 347 The front was prolly about 30 min/side, This was the first time I'd ever taken off struts so I was tip-toeing
It took 4 hours for the rear due to the fact the lower strut bolts were BITCHES
And I broke TWO ratches to get them loose. I had to put a jack underneath them and jack them up to get enough leverage to get them loose
Dude, You did something wrong. you probably hit on the TOP of the actual tie rod, NOT where it mounts on the strut housing. There's no way you could damage the tie rod if all you hit is the mounting point, not the actual tie rod. Unless you had a sledgehammer....
It took 4 hours for the rear due to the fact the lower strut bolts were BITCHES
And I broke TWO ratches to get them loose. I had to put a jack underneath them and jack them up to get enough leverage to get them loose
Originally Posted by cj2185
DO NOT HAMMER! u will damage the tie rod end and will cost u more in the long run believe me. I damaged mine and had to replace the tie rod. It was 2 hard to replace. Had to take it to autozone cost me $230.00.
Dude, You did something wrong. you probably hit on the TOP of the actual tie rod, NOT where it mounts on the strut housing. There's no way you could damage the tie rod if all you hit is the mounting point, not the actual tie rod. Unless you had a sledgehammer....
