Where's the RSX rear sway bar DIY?
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Where's the RSX rear sway bar DIY?
There was one at xanja.com or something but it's down now. I'm asking for gearbox cuz I told him I would send him a link but I can't find it 
Here's one for the Progress bar but that one talks about drilling holes and stuff, too. Is there one for just swapping the sway bars?
Here's one for the Progress bar but that one talks about drilling holes and stuff, too. Is there one for just swapping the sway bars?
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 369 1) Jack up the rear of the car (put it in gear if you've got a 5-speed), don't forget to block off the front tires just in case. Spray the endlink bolts and brackets with a little WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to help your loosening efforts.
2) The endlinks are held on by a 14mm nut over a bolt that has a slot for a 5mm Allen wrench opening. Looks almost like the top of the front strut assembly if you need a reference. Stick a 14mm wrench onto that nut and use a 5mm Allen wrench in that slot to hold the bolt in place otherwise it'll just spin with the nut. Took me a while to figure that one out.
3) Once the nut is off, just maneuver the endlink off the end of the sway bar, repeat for the other side.
4) The brackets that hold the sway bar to the subframe are 12 or 14mm nuts (I forget, but I think it's 12). Remove them, and the sway bar is now off. Remember how it looked when it was on, so you can match that with the new bar.
5) Remove the brackets from the bushings, you will reuse them. Laugh at your puny stock sway bar, then throw it at someone you don't like.
6) Put the RSX bushings on the new sway bar (I greased mine with lithium grease first, purely optional) then the brackets on top of them. Bolt to the subframe but don't tighten yet, you may need a little play when installing the endlinks.
7) Put the endlink bolts back through the corresponding holes in the sway bar then reattach the 14mm nut on top and tighten down. I had to use the 5mm Allen wrench to hold the middle part of the bolt in place while tightening.
8) Tighten the brackets, I forget the torque setting, so I just tightened them till good and snug.
9) Lower the car, check to make sure nothing is hitting the sway bar, like the lower control arms. If they ARE hitting, either you have installed the sway bar upside down or you have no springs or shocks installed.
10) Once all is good and tight, a nice easy test drive will show you how much better the car feels. Point and laugh at people driving Cavaliers and Sunfires.
11) Wash your dirty greasy hands off, you filthy animal.
2) The endlinks are held on by a 14mm nut over a bolt that has a slot for a 5mm Allen wrench opening. Looks almost like the top of the front strut assembly if you need a reference. Stick a 14mm wrench onto that nut and use a 5mm Allen wrench in that slot to hold the bolt in place otherwise it'll just spin with the nut. Took me a while to figure that one out.
3) Once the nut is off, just maneuver the endlink off the end of the sway bar, repeat for the other side.
4) The brackets that hold the sway bar to the subframe are 12 or 14mm nuts (I forget, but I think it's 12). Remove them, and the sway bar is now off. Remember how it looked when it was on, so you can match that with the new bar.
5) Remove the brackets from the bushings, you will reuse them. Laugh at your puny stock sway bar, then throw it at someone you don't like.
6) Put the RSX bushings on the new sway bar (I greased mine with lithium grease first, purely optional) then the brackets on top of them. Bolt to the subframe but don't tighten yet, you may need a little play when installing the endlinks.
7) Put the endlink bolts back through the corresponding holes in the sway bar then reattach the 14mm nut on top and tighten down. I had to use the 5mm Allen wrench to hold the middle part of the bolt in place while tightening.
8) Tighten the brackets, I forget the torque setting, so I just tightened them till good and snug.
9) Lower the car, check to make sure nothing is hitting the sway bar, like the lower control arms. If they ARE hitting, either you have installed the sway bar upside down or you have no springs or shocks installed.
10) Once all is good and tight, a nice easy test drive will show you how much better the car feels. Point and laugh at people driving Cavaliers and Sunfires.
11) Wash your dirty greasy hands off, you filthy animal.
snooty patooty partier
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Originally Posted by TeLLy
1) Jack up the rear of the car (put it in gear if you've got a 5-speed), don't forget to block off the front tires just in case. Spray the endlink bolts and brackets with a little WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to help your loosening efforts.
2) The endlinks are held on by a 14mm nut over a bolt that has a slot for a 5mm Allen wrench opening. Looks almost like the top of the front strut assembly if you need a reference. Stick a 14mm wrench onto that nut and use a 5mm Allen wrench in that slot to hold the bolt in place otherwise it'll just spin with the nut. Took me a while to figure that one out.
3) Once the nut is off, just maneuver the endlink off the end of the sway bar, repeat for the other side.
4) The brackets that hold the sway bar to the subframe are 12 or 14mm nuts (I forget, but I think it's 12). Remove them, and the sway bar is now off. Remember how it looked when it was on, so you can match that with the new bar.
5) Remove the brackets from the bushings, you will reuse them. Laugh at your puny stock sway bar, then throw it at someone you don't like.
6) Put the RSX bushings on the new sway bar (I greased mine with lithium grease first, purely optional) then the brackets on top of them. Bolt to the subframe but don't tighten yet, you may need a little play when installing the endlinks.
7) Put the endlink bolts back through the corresponding holes in the sway bar then reattach the 14mm nut on top and tighten down. I had to use the 5mm Allen wrench to hold the middle part of the bolt in place while tightening.
8) Tighten the brackets, I forget the torque setting, so I just tightened them till good and snug.
9) Lower the car, check to make sure nothing is hitting the sway bar, like the lower control arms. If they ARE hitting, either you have installed the sway bar upside down or you have no springs or shocks installed.
10) Once all is good and tight, a nice easy test drive will show you how much better the car feels. Point and laugh at people driving Cavaliers and Sunfires.
11) Wash your dirty greasy hands off, you filthy animal.
2) The endlinks are held on by a 14mm nut over a bolt that has a slot for a 5mm Allen wrench opening. Looks almost like the top of the front strut assembly if you need a reference. Stick a 14mm wrench onto that nut and use a 5mm Allen wrench in that slot to hold the bolt in place otherwise it'll just spin with the nut. Took me a while to figure that one out.
3) Once the nut is off, just maneuver the endlink off the end of the sway bar, repeat for the other side.
4) The brackets that hold the sway bar to the subframe are 12 or 14mm nuts (I forget, but I think it's 12). Remove them, and the sway bar is now off. Remember how it looked when it was on, so you can match that with the new bar.
5) Remove the brackets from the bushings, you will reuse them. Laugh at your puny stock sway bar, then throw it at someone you don't like.
6) Put the RSX bushings on the new sway bar (I greased mine with lithium grease first, purely optional) then the brackets on top of them. Bolt to the subframe but don't tighten yet, you may need a little play when installing the endlinks.
7) Put the endlink bolts back through the corresponding holes in the sway bar then reattach the 14mm nut on top and tighten down. I had to use the 5mm Allen wrench to hold the middle part of the bolt in place while tightening.
8) Tighten the brackets, I forget the torque setting, so I just tightened them till good and snug.
9) Lower the car, check to make sure nothing is hitting the sway bar, like the lower control arms. If they ARE hitting, either you have installed the sway bar upside down or you have no springs or shocks installed.
10) Once all is good and tight, a nice easy test drive will show you how much better the car feels. Point and laugh at people driving Cavaliers and Sunfires.
11) Wash your dirty greasy hands off, you filthy animal.
i dont have a exhisting sway bar. what would i need. I have the rsx-s rear sway bar with the bushings and endlinks. i believe all i need is to drill a hole for the brackets and i dont have brackets where can i get them? Yes, it's an Acura EL
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From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 369 Well, you'd have to drill a hole AND somehow thread it to accept the bolts that will hold the brackets on. Try to see if you can get your hands on the Neuspeed or Progress mounting plate....
Why is my vagina bleeding?
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 305 Install it following Grey DIY's. I know Grey's DIY is for the progress bar, but it should be pretty much the same only you don't need to mount the tie bar. You have the mounting points on your frame as well for the endlinks to fit to on your civic.
Why is my vagina bleeding?
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 305 ^^^^^^^^^^^Oh yeah I hear you I remember now. Thats why Grey had the addiotnal mounting kit(he called it) for the cars that didn't come with the rear sway bar from the factory.
also to add to telly's DIY, when i installed the RSX bar i stripped the allen key hole on one of the endlinks. So instead of using an allen key i used a pair of vise grips/pliers to grab a hold of a washer that is attached between the joint of the endlink and the bolt that needs to come off. If i would have known about this alternative from the start i would have done it first.
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Originally Posted by CdKoInU
after you guys installed da bar, did you guys hear a popping noise after?
Autocross Junky
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Registered!!
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Re: Where's the RSX rear sway bar DIY?
actually the bar cost 90 for just the bar and over 50 for the bushings and endlinks anyone have one forsale 
trade for front type s sway cuz i got the front one sent to me instead of rear
trade for front type s sway cuz i got the front one sent to me instead of rear 
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