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Here's a quickie for ya... Does adding positive camber add positive or negative toe?

 
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negative camber adds toe in. Positive camber adds toe out. Look at the geometry of our tie rod and strut. Push the camber in, the tie rod stays the same length and pushes against the back of the wheel forcing toe in. and vice versa.

 
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Thanks man... i was curious about it cuz i got my car dropped and during the allignment the mechanic told me that i'd have to reduce my negative camber in the rear to get the toe setting correct. Currently i'm at -3.1 on teh camber and like .2 on the toe... Just making sure the guy working on my car knew what he was talking about.

 
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that is bull ****. Unless the tie rod end can't handle that much camber you should be able to get an aligment. You can stay -3 and adjust the tie rod end. If you want to maintain the camber, get better tie rod ends. I think ES makes a set, but I am not sure. I think it can handle -3 and still have pretty decent toe settings.

 
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The rear end reacts differently then the front. so HE may be right..

Any way Runnign -3 Deg camber on the back really isnt a good idea. (Now If I could get -3 on the front.....

 
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are you talking about the front or the rear?

 
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i was talking about the front. I assumed that because I have more camber up front than rear...my bad. the rear toe shouldn't change that much when making adding more camber.

To correct the toe in the rear has nothing to do with the camber. There are bolts that can be loosened and the wheel needs to be physically moved to get toe right. You can drop to -5 degrees rear and still have 0 toe because the camber kit is directly in the middle of the wheel.

Edit... sorry rob, I clicked the wrong button.

 
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God bless camber plates.

Anyways... I thought there was a way to make slight adjustments to the rear toe independent of the camber? Maybe not, but either way, you need to get that camber angle back towards -1.

 
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Is there a way to put some washers in certain places?

 
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NO
The washer trick that used to work DOES NOT work anymore. When the suspension was redesigned, it rendered this useless, and its actually dangerous.

 
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there is a slight way. You have to unscrew the bolts holding the bushings and the wheel has to be physically pushed into place. and then turned until they are straight. I saw the alignment guy do it twice.

 
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Our rear suspension toe is set by an esentric lobe bushing (SImmilar concept to an esentric lobe bolt that is some times used on the front to adjust camber)

Now, the bushing that adjusts is on the lower control arm (the one with the 3 torx headed bolts that no one can seem to find the socket for), if you start there and look outboard of the car, you'll see what looks like 2 bolts on top of eachother. The small one (top) locks every thing down. the big one (bottom) adjust the toe by rotating the bushing. Now, if you have so much camber there that you cant dial out enough toe, then you will need a different bushing that will allow for more adjustment.

 
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sho nuff...good one spencer. I think he should be able to get enough toe.

 
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Ok guys i have a question the bolt that holds on to the bushing that controls the toe on my car doesnt move it is frozen the mechanics at the shop i work at say that i can do one of two things either get new eccentrics or get a toe adjustment kit does anyone know where to get the toe adjustment kits from i have a 2002 honda civic ex