Hayame Coilover V2.0 woes...
06-16-2004
#31
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OK so I took a pic from the bottom of the arm. You can tell it's tapered cause the hole furthest from the camera is smaller than the hole at the top:
I took various angles trying to illustrate it better but this was the best I could do. Lemme rummage for a ruler to see if I can get a measurement...
*edit OK I measured it - the bottom of the hole is 9/16" wide. The top of the hole is 1/2" wide. So it IS tapered, but not by much.
I took various angles trying to illustrate it better but this was the best I could do. Lemme rummage for a ruler to see if I can get a measurement...
*edit OK I measured it - the bottom of the hole is 9/16" wide. The top of the hole is 1/2" wide. So it IS tapered, but not by much.
Last edited by TeLLy; 06-16-2004 at 08:09 PM.
06-16-2004
#32
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Rep Power: 302 I didn't read this too much. But I just bought the Hayame suspension over KWs beacuase of a few reasons.
One thing, as the SPW/Hayame rep said, You're supposed to flip the tie rod around. Grey bought the Hayames from my sponser as well. he flipped his. They do it for chassis dynamics when the car is dramatically lowered. Supposed to help with the geometry of the suspension.
I'm doing my install Friday, they come in tomorrow.
One thing, as the SPW/Hayame rep said, You're supposed to flip the tie rod around. Grey bought the Hayames from my sponser as well. he flipped his. They do it for chassis dynamics when the car is dramatically lowered. Supposed to help with the geometry of the suspension.
I'm doing my install Friday, they come in tomorrow.
06-16-2004
#34
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Rep Power: 457 I'm really thinking of getting a set of these now. I'm tired of blown struts.
06-16-2004
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Originally Posted by TeLLy
How does one flip the tie rod? Just turn it over?
06-17-2004
#36
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Rep Power: 287 Unscrew or screw in? To me it would make more sense to screw the tire rod in instead of out. Reason being is that when your flipping the tie rod over to the bottom side your increasing the length since its more horizontal now. To make up for the increased length, you'd want to decrease it by turning in the tie rod so its shorter.
This is assuming that the steering arm on the Hayame is welded in the same postion on the housing as the stock one is. However I guess it doesnt really matter much though as long as you can make it safety to an alignment shop.
This is assuming that the steering arm on the Hayame is welded in the same postion on the housing as the stock one is. However I guess it doesnt really matter much though as long as you can make it safety to an alignment shop.
06-17-2004
#37
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Rep Power: 0 i got my fronts on last night, i put the tie rod in upside down, and it fits, works perfectly. i dont know about wether to screw it in, or out, because i have to fix that today. my left tire is straight, and my right one is turned out a few degrees, so i will screw it in more to fix that. rears are going in as well tonight 
06-17-2004
#41
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Rep Power: 0 i dont think it really matters which way you turn it, whether it's in or out because either way you go, your going to have to take your car into a shop to get it aligned immediately.
06-17-2004
#42
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Rep Power: 0 ok, got them on. all i got to say is i am really disappointed. maybe i am adjusting them wrong, but the way i am doing it, only lowered the car by about an inch at the most. the strut will NOT screw down anymore, and the only way to get the car any lower, would be to compress the spring, but then you get **** for ride quality. im going out to mess with it some more, il post more about it later. if im adjusting them wrong, someone please say so.
06-17-2004
#46
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Rep Power: 0 i did a little bit of adjusting tonight with the rears. i now only have a one finger gap. ones they sag, it should get rid of that, so i will have no wheel gap in front or rear, which is what i was going for. also i have my system on the way which will weigh another 150-200 lbs so it should be low enough for me. these will go pretty low, but dont plan on tucking with them (in the rear at least)
so it should be low enough for me. these will go pretty low, but dont plan on tucking with them (in the rear at least) 
06-18-2004
#52
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Rep Power: 0 yea i got the front at 3 inches right now, it could def. go down to 4, but i dont want it quite that low, ha. the rear tho, is about 2.75 inches, and thats as low as it will go.
06-19-2004
#53
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Rep Power: 302 how come no one can get the back slammed? Mine went in fairly smooth. 2.75" is about right for the rear... to me the front could go low enoguh where the car would be resting on the ground.
I just wish they sent directions with the kit, nevermind decals.
I just wish they sent directions with the kit, nevermind decals.
06-19-2004
#54
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Rep Power: 344 Hey Madwheel, are you running the 2.0's or the first gen Hayames? You know I would be ever so grateful so see how your rear perch is set...wanna take pics for the rest of us poor saps?
06-19-2004
#55
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Rep Power: 0 madwheel, I got mine lowered at the rear as well. It was so low that I have a -3.2 camber.
Questions to those people who installed them. Does the front moves freely? I dont mean rotating the wheels or turning the wheels. I mean, try shaking the front wheel and it moves. It seems like the top strut is missing a some type of washer [?] or does it really moves/shakes due to the front suspension design? Could it be Im using a 17mm instead of the 19mm bolt? Im gonna dremel the hayame tomorrow so the OEM 19mm bolt fits again.
Questions to those people who installed them. Does the front moves freely? I dont mean rotating the wheels or turning the wheels. I mean, try shaking the front wheel and it moves. It seems like the top strut is missing a some type of washer [?] or does it really moves/shakes due to the front suspension design? Could it be Im using a 17mm instead of the 19mm bolt? Im gonna dremel the hayame tomorrow so the OEM 19mm bolt fits again.
06-20-2004
#56
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Rep Power: 0 all my oem bolts fit fine. mine hayames have settled a little bit already, and i am at a NO finger gap in the rear. i guess they turned out alright after all.
06-20-2004
#57
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Rep Power: 0 civicdude04 you are pretty lucky.
518 it is weird you can shake your wheel easily, it also sounds dangerous. Do you have pix of the coilover b4 you install them?
518 it is weird you can shake your wheel easily, it also sounds dangerous. Do you have pix of the coilover b4 you install them?
06-20-2004
#59
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Originally Posted by dacivic
civicdude04 you are pretty lucky.
518 it is weird you can shake your wheel easily, it also sounds dangerous. Do you have pix of the coilover b4 you install them?
518 it is weird you can shake your wheel easily, it also sounds dangerous. Do you have pix of the coilover b4 you install them?
I dont have a pic of it b4 I installed it. But I did compare it to the pictures that slammed has posted and they are identical indeed. It is dangerous and it can break my tie-rod and the whole steering. I will take it back to the shop on monday to have it looked at. Also, I might ask the shop to take the rear bottom bolt out so I can easily adjust the height.
06-20-2004
#60
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Originally Posted by civicdude04
what do you mean by saying you can shake your wheel easily
I need luck and Im taking a day off tomorrow monday.
