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I have searched and searched and searched, but i still can't get any straight answers. What is the best way to get the tie rod off without stripping the stud or ****ing up the boot? Needless to say, everyone says the "old hammer method" but there is always a risk with stripping the bolt with going that route. I have found out the hard way that using a pickle fork will rape your boot. Has anyone used this tool (gear/pittman puller) gear puller and how well does it work? Also, i need to replace my tie rod end, does anyone have a DIY or know exactly how to do this? thanks

 
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Theres a tool at autozone called a tie rod seperator. I looks like a crow bar and wont mess the boot up as long as you wedge it in properly.

 
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Not yet, but it's sitting in my toolbox currently I should be making use of it in one of the next 2 weekends...but no current experience, sorry

 
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I used the hammer and it worked.

 
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thats PERFECT!
autozone has those as well. you pay a deposit to rent them and when you return it you get the deposit back.
As for the tie rod end... there's a nut right next to the tie rod. you want it loosen it so that you can spin the tie rod off. Put the new one on and tighten that nut back. Make sure you try and get it on exactly the same amount as the old one cause thats what changes the toe. But yeah i HIGHLY recommend you go to an alignment shop after your done replacing it

 
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Awesome, i'll head to autozone tomorrow then...thanks for all the help guys

 
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I bought this thing at the auto parts store for less that $10. It works really good and fits our cars (make sure you get the compact car version).

 
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The best way I've found is to take a hammer and bang the STRUT ASSEMBLY where the tie rod end goes, not the bottom of the tie rod end where the nut goes. Give it about four or five good whacks and the tire rod end pops out with no problem and it won't mess up anything, either.

 
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Make sure to use a tie-rod end sperator. Trust me, I have done spring instalations on 4 cars and all worked flawlessly with the hammer method. However, the 5th one decided to be a little bitch and the threads got bent. Now I have to fix his car.

 
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Clown, you are not supposed to use the hammer to hit the botom of the tie rod end. Bang on the strut and the vibrations will loosen the tie rod end without messin up the threads.

 
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you can hit it and bang on it or use a pickle fork but eh with all of these you run the risk or messing something up. the right way is to use the thing inanimate posted.

 
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Actually the impact deflects the metal and distorts its shape enough for the taper to break. Thats why you are supposed to use the ball of a ball pien hammer. It concentrates the force on a point. In the real world most techs will use a hammer to do it, but the tool



Is ideal if you have one its less likely to do damage to the tie rod by the slip of the hammer. And the only time you should use a pickle fork is when the joint is being replaced, cause it VERY seldomely breaks the tapper without doing damage to the boot.

 
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This tool we're talking about is all of ten bucks and available at every corner autoparts store, and comes with a lifetime warranty. If you really cant swing it AutoZone will even loan you theirs with a $15 deposit (fully refundable at time of return).
Tie rod ends and steering thread carriers are precision parts - hammers, not so precision.

 
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Ummm yeah, that's what I did, I hit the steering arm on the STRUT. Somehow that still bent the threads. I'm using pickleforks from now on.

 
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pickle fork you run the risk of ripping the tie rod boot. it's nearly impossible to replace just the boot so you have to replace the whole tie rod end. so again if you could, use the tie rod end puller. if you could find the fork you should be able to find the puller anyways

 
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if you can find you're receipt, you can give them back that fork - buy the puller, and leave 2$ richer for the experience (at least @ my local AZone).

 
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so who here has replaced the actual ball joint and did you beat the **** out of it to get it out ?

 
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project2k2 derek helped me do my eibach and he hit the THREAD and that was a bitch.. we had to file it down by hand for 2 hours so that the nut will go on.. and now im afraid to touch ti cause it takes 20 min to set the nut on correctly

riley

 
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The first tie rod removal tool was the standard size and it boogered up the end of the ball joint by deforming the threads. I just borrowed a die from the toolroom here at work and cleaned up the threads. Once I bought the tool for compact cars, it was much easier to remove the tie rod.

 
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how does a die work? my threads are ****ed... and i had to "make the end of the thread pointed so the nut would/could go on... could i cut the tip off and "use a die"??


dude^^^ive seen alot of posts from you lately.. got some time off work?

 
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nah, still working. Just got more free time in the evening since I've started going in earlier.

A die is what machinists use to put threads onto a rod. It's pretty much the opposite of a tap. If you're threads are messed up, just run the right size die over it a couple times. It'll spin on like a nut but it'll cut away the steel that's in the wrong spot.

http://www.toolking.com/images/products/biggp53200.jpg
(Dies are the roundish things with the hex outside)

 
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oh damn my dad's got those...

the tip is ****ed tho.. so hmm. i could put it on...(tip is angled now) cut tip then take it off and it'l straighten em up...maybe...

 
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If its bent dont try to straighten it just replace the tierod, if you do try to make it straight it may break. Not sure about you but i wouldnt like it if my steeering broke driving down the freeway