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What is the difference or is there a difference between changing the payload on the hayame coilovers to change how hard or soft the ride is, to something that has damper adjustabilty like tein ss,KWs etc?

 
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PRELOAD - compressing the spring while in a static (not moving) state inorder to raise the effective rate of the spring. You adjust these to balance the cross weights of the car (search google for cornerweighting). This doesn't really change how hard the ride is..... its a neutralizing feature so the left side of the car weighs effectively the same as the right.

Damper adjustability changes the damping rate, how fast it reacts. The faster they react the "harder" they feel.

 
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makes sense thanks for clearing that up for me

 
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There was a really good write up on how preload works and how it should be used. Taken from ClubRSX.com forums in the Hayame Review thread:

Let's say you have a 500lb/in spring (A), but want it stiffer, say, something similar to a 1000lb/in spring (B). So, you preload spring A 1" to have an initial pressure of 500lbs. Now, on the first inch of suspension travel (that's 2" of total compression for spring A, 1" for spring B), spring A is at 2" which requires 1000lbs of force. Spring B is at 1" which also requires 1000lbs of force. So, right now, they're "behaving" fairly similarly, and your end goal is being met. Now, 2" of suspension travel, 3" total for spring A at 1500lbs, and 2" for spring B at 2000lbs. Now, 3" of suspension travel, 4" total for spring A at 2000lbs, and 3" for spring B at 3000lbs. See how the forces required are getting further and further apart?...that's what I mean by their behavior becoming more different. As compression gets larger, the higher rate spring will feel "stiffer" than the lower rate spring. At lower compression distances, the forces required to compress each spring the same distance are much closer. In the end, the stiffer spring will always end up being stiffer. Preload is just a way to manipulate what you already have. Also, it's not always the situation where spring A tracks spring B at the beginning and strays lower from there (think of force graphs to picture this). You can play w/ preload amount to have the inital force of spring A higher than spring B, then cross spring B's force line and become lower. anyways, this is a workaround, which for many cases...works. But when you can get Tein springs for <$50ea., if you're racing, it's better to get the higher rate springs.

 
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SlammedBlueEM2 - thanks for posting that. I now FULLY understand the mechanics of spring preload. I received my Hayames yesterday, probably going to install them next weekend.

From what I've gathered in other threads, people seem to get the best ride with a high amount of preload on the front springs and minimal preload on the rear springs. Do you find that to be the case?

Also, on the topic of lowering your ride, I noticed that you posted pics of your car with less than a finger's worth of wheel gap. Did you have issues with rubbing on the rear tires? Also, what camber are you running on your rear - camber kit or no?

 
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Personally, I prefer a little more preload in the rear than in the front so it would not be as bouncy. You should play with the preload yourself to find what suits you. Everyone's different about how they prefer their suspension. If you're wondering how much you should preload your springs, do it little by little.

I read you really shouldn't need more than one inch of preload because slightly adjusting it will offer a big difference in how it performs but you should see for yourself. If you need somewhere to start, start with 0.25 inches and see how it is, then work your way up.

Actually I did have issues of the rear right wheel rubbing but that's a camber issue, and yes. I do have a rear camber kit.