Those with JIC Magic Coilovers, some help please!
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Those with JIC Magic Coilovers, some help please!
Hey everyone I have JIC Magic coilovers and on the front the **** is about half an inch from poking out of its hole...it can hit the boot I hear people say...
So my question is, if I leave it like this can I get a 3 inch drop and full shock travel?
Or is it the more down it goes the worst the shock travel gets... if that's the case will I bottom out with it like this?
So my question is, if I leave it like this can I get a 3 inch drop and full shock travel?
Or is it the more down it goes the worst the shock travel gets... if that's the case will I bottom out with it like this?
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With JICs the shock travel is independent of the ride height. When you lower the ride height, all you do is thread the lower mount further up the shock body, which is why your adjustment **** is starting to stick out. Thats also why JIC says the adjustment range is from .5-2.5"... and it does get in the way of the boot.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; Jan 29, 2004 at 09:14 AM.
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Originally posted by VNlilMAN
Ya if you want it lower from this point, I would adjust the spring perch.
Ya if you want it lower from this point, I would adjust the spring perch.
Looky

Its an inverted monotube so the adjuster is on the bottom. As you go lower, the bottom bracket threads up the shock body and at some point the damper adjustment **** will poke out. It gets in the way. Moving the spring perch is just going to change the preload on the spring, it won't alter the ride height in anyway.
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Why wouldnt it? It would work like a conventional coilover setup.
Lets take an extreme example, lower the perch all the way down to the 3rd lock nut. This will cause the spring to sit freely. It'll probably have like a 1" gap between the top of the spring and the mount. This will cause it to lower 1". Isnt this how coilovers like tein work? You lower the perch and it lowers the car...
I mean if the perch was all the way at the bottom and there was still a preload than yet this wouldnt work BUT i'm almost sure the spring isnt that long to maintain a preload that far.
Lets take an extreme example, lower the perch all the way down to the 3rd lock nut. This will cause the spring to sit freely. It'll probably have like a 1" gap between the top of the spring and the mount. This will cause it to lower 1". Isnt this how coilovers like tein work? You lower the perch and it lowers the car...
I mean if the perch was all the way at the bottom and there was still a preload than yet this wouldnt work BUT i'm almost sure the spring isnt that long to maintain a preload that far.
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Where you see the perch in the photo, the spring is still unloaded, JICs come pre set for a 1.5" drop from the factory, so move the bottom bracket up 1" from there, you're looking at a relatively large gap remaining. That's also gonna dump the vast majority of the suspension load on the shock, which can't possibly good for it. They're rebuildable, but I think its something like $800 to get the shocks redone... so unless you're rich and can get the shocks redone often, I don't see this is a wise thing. They're racing coilovers, they're not designed to be slammed, they're intended to keep the car under control... if you unload them, it should make for an amusing ride.
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Ya most people who get JICs are for performance and probably wouldnt slam their cars but i'm just saying if you wanted to that is an option. It's not the best thing for the shocks but I dont think its horrible for it either. Most coilovers are designed this way and are fine even up to 2.5" like that. Since you do have the 3rd locknut you obviously wouldnt take the preload off it that much but probably 1" max so i dont think it would do much damage to them. I guess i'm trying to say its not ideal but it is an option
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Unless you've got a real good hookup, you'll be paying more like $1750-$1850. And yes... just about everything is adjustable.
u can use the full 3" drop by removing the adjustment **** on the front shock
u do it by using a plier and turn the **** and and the washer together
the adjustment **** is basically a allen wrench that turns a small nut kind of thing under the **** that pushes a valve up and down
how do i know, i serviced my own
sorry about the wrong wording if i have done so
u do it by using a plier and turn the **** and and the washer together
the adjustment **** is basically a allen wrench that turns a small nut kind of thing under the **** that pushes a valve up and down
how do i know, i serviced my own
sorry about the wrong wording if i have done so
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Originally posted by usafstud
damn, 1750-1850 is way more than what i paid
damn, 1750-1850 is way more than what i paid
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