edicivic2k1

iTrader: (5)

Grey, ditto. I just reread some of your DIY's for reference, I am preparing to do my timing belt! You definitely have a good eye for detail.

Uh, Feminazi Sara-Lee, may I suggest, and this is just a suggestion, that you leave the year, and model of your vehicle so that you can add intelligence to this thread? There may be others in the same [let's hope not, but, I guess it is possible] predicament as you.

Uh, Feminazi Sara-Lee, if you are struggling to register to this website, you may want to board the short bus tomorrow morning.

Uhhhh, Fem-i-****, Sara-Lee, for the most part, folks on this website are from the U S and A. Here, we have privileges that allow us to make choices on our own. Just like your unfortunate choice to leave a comment here on this forum!!

Feminazi Sara-Lee, are you sure about this? Have you discussed this with anyone?

Feminazi, this is the only comment you made that raised our trust in your intelligence. Sorry Hunny, [if you are a chick.]

Bye.

Oh, and Feminazi? No need to reply. This is a one time posting.

eruffini

What would be a disadvantage to NOT greasing the back of the brake pads?

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

its not a dis-advantage to not put it on the back but an an advantage to put it on the back as it MAY reduce brake noise

eruffini

Thanks!

Dash555

Has anyone else noticed a slight vibration coming from the brake pedal during moderate braking after installing cross-drilled rotors??

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

If you have a vibration after new rotors its not from them being slotted. Its from not indexing the rotor to the hub to minimize run-out. Max run-out is .003" (.004" per honda ) and the best way to cure the problem now is to have them machined on the car!

DarkFlame

Grey, great DIY. I've done brake rotor/pad replacements on most of my vehicles, & your DIY seems spot-on. But I do have a couple of questions:

1-) I never know the difference between "right-hand" & "left-hand" threads. "Standard" threads are clockwise to tighten & counter-clockwise to loosen (as my wife says: "Righty-tighty & Lefty-loosey"). But which way to tighten/loosen "right" or "left" hand threads?

2-)We have always bled brake lines by attaching a piece of rubber hose to each bleeder nipple an pushing the other ends into clean soda bottles half-full of fresh brake fluid, then bleeding the brakes individually, starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder (longest line) & ending with the one closest to the master cyl (shortest line). this allows a single person to bleed the lines - w/o help. of course, one must always be careful to not let the master cyl run dry. however, it has always worked for me, and I've never needed any help bleeding the lines. Is there a problem with this method?

3-) & here's why I'm wanting to UPGRADE the brakes & not just "replace" the pads & rotors on my Civic ('98 LX w/90k "all mine" miles): the rotors always seem to warp before the pads get halfway worn out! (and, I want to drive the thing another 10 years or so w/o having to replace the rotors several more times. SO, what would be the best heavy-duty rotors available?

Please excuse any typos - I'm typing this on my PocketPC from the hotel room (kids & wife are asleep) while we're out of town, and my fingers are fatter than these keys!!!

Thanks for sharing your expertise,
David
San Antonio, TX

00telehit

I have ROTORA BIG brAKE KIT ON MY CIVIC, THEY ARE AWSOME WAY BETTER THAN BREMBO, BUT IF U WANT BETTER THAN ROTORA, U CAN GO WITH WILLWOOD BRAKE SYSTEM, OR ENDLESS .........THEY ARE GREAT, BUT U GONNA NEED A TON OF CASH.






NOTE: this pics are from my old civic, this same rotora brake system it ll be install in my new EM2, i have a bunch of after market parts sitting in my garage, but im waiting for the winter to be over, so by spring i ll put the big brake kit, and the other stuff, i need this EM2, really clean jdm style, for the beginning tour of HIN in april.





and to explain thing better, as u see in this 2000 civic ferio, it has a set of advan wheels, those wheel are now on my EM2, here is a pic.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

^ur car looks ridiculous... drop that poor thing

supafil25

iTrader: (2)

going back to the first post

if you dont know how to do brakes you shouldnt work on a car.

02Hondadx

Just don's drain all the fluid out, other wise you will have a bunch of air in the lines and that is not good.

02Hondadx

True, but you have to know how to do it eventually. I know how but, there are some people that are new to the whole working on your own car thing.

02Hondadx

No i havent had any problems. I had a slight grinding at first but after a few hard braking stages to heat up the pads it went away. Sometimes with ceramic pads/rotors there could be a bur in the metal. but it will soon go away, like i said with a few hard braking tests. Recommend doing this in a neighborhood, or not as busy road

azcat90

Are we supposed to put grease on the cailper pins - pull them out from the hole covered by the rubber boot and dip them in grease?

MindBomber

Yes, is a good idea to grease those.

Just slide it most of the way out and put grease on it.

JRunyon21

iTrader: (1)

I tried changing my brake pads and rotors yesterday and ran into a small problem. Everything went well until I got to the last brake pad(The pad on the outside of the caliper). The pad slipped in and when I went to put the caliper back on it would not fit over the rotor. Before jumping to conclusion, I already used a C clamp to push the piston all the way back. When I try to put it on it is getting caught between the outside brake pad and the inside of the caliper. I repeat, it is not getting caught between the two brake pads. It is getting caught between the outside brake pad and the caliper itself.

I fooled with it for over an hour.

I put the old pad back in so I could make it to work today.

Any suggestions?

Kyle23

Are they Weaver Silver pads from Advance Auto Parts? I read a few reviews that said the pads were too large and wouldn't fit...

05civicdallas

i know im pullin a old thread. so i dont get burned for starting a new one.

I just wanted to ask if anyone gots a trick to get off them damn screws that hold the rotor on. i have been spraying them down with WD-40 but no help i could only get off one.

i have already broke the handle off one of my screwdriver

billkisme

iTrader: (1)

most likely you will have to drill them out and get new ones or use a impact screw driver. Im not sure if thats the real name of it or not. but if you just drill them out and just pull the rotor off you can then just grab whats left of the screw and pull it out

gklayton

One step you forgot to mention: Pushing brake piston back

Because your older brake pads would've been worn out and the new ones aren't you will need to push the brake piston back into the caliper. To do this:
1. Open brake fluid reservoir lid
2. Using adjustable pliers, smoothly squeeze the piston back into the caliper

You should now be able to put the new brake pads.

Rahway09

How much would new brake pads and rotors cost?