DIY: Brake Pads and Rotor Install *Updated*
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Re: DIY: Brake Pads and Rotor Install *Updated*
Originally posted by Grey
Although, in theory they should work better than the stock ones do. The holes increase the surface area of the rotor and allow the air to flow through the rotor which increases cooling of the rotor. The slots are there to prevent the buildup of brake dust so that it doesn't form a glaze on the surface of the brake pad. This glaze forms under hard braking and has lower frictional properties than the surface of a non-glazed brake pad. In effect, you will be able to effectively brake longer than before.
Although, in theory they should work better than the stock ones do. The holes increase the surface area of the rotor and allow the air to flow through the rotor which increases cooling of the rotor. The slots are there to prevent the buildup of brake dust so that it doesn't form a glaze on the surface of the brake pad. This glaze forms under hard braking and has lower frictional properties than the surface of a non-glazed brake pad. In effect, you will be able to effectively brake longer than before.
in effect, a "Big Brake Kit" may have little to no more surface area than stock. the benefits of the drilled holes are marginal and merely create points for stress cracks to occur, and the slots arent really needed because a decent set of new pads doesnt "gas-out" like older pads did, thus making the slotting unnecessary.
this is a good DIY dont get me wong, but there are better rotor choices out there(brembo blanks, etc.)
just trying to inform people
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DIY King
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Rep Power: 419 You're kinda repeating what the ads for non-drilled rotors say. What you're saying makes sense, but there are a ton of factors to consider. The amount of frictional force does not decrease with surface area; kinda a law of physics. You have a point with the more mass = more heat soaking capability. Although it's how hot the rotor gets that's most important. Less mass = more hot, but less mass due to holes = less hot. There's an optimum point here. One that balances cooling through surface area and mass.
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^^^ pretty much yes, but may not have to refill after each wheel. Usually you can do both backs then check fluid level then both fronts and top it off at the end. But this all varries with how many times you have to bleed each wheel.
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Originally Posted by dubz01si
what the hell do you do when your phillp screw is stripped the F-ing thing just stiped on my with the right size phillip F\/ck
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From: Miami (Pembroke Pines), Florida
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Originally Posted by manu
Hey Grey great DIY ; but i just can't take out the bolts for the calipers . 
I was able to take only one bottom bolt and the other three aren't moving at all. I tried WD-40 , i tried a friend of mine who's stronger than me and it just won't come off. Got any ideas ??? anybody ?? 
I was able to take only one bottom bolt and the other three aren't moving at all. I tried WD-40 , i tried a friend of mine who's stronger than me and it just won't come off. Got any ideas ??? anybody ?? 
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Rep Power: 0 Taking Grey's advice in his DIY on brakes, I bought an impact screw driver. you hit it with a hammer. The good news was that I got the two screws out of the rotor BUT I coudn't get the rotor off the hub. Any ideas?
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 328 penetrating oil, and TAP the face ( in between the wheel studs ) LIGHTLY. DONT hit the surface that the pads ride on. Worse case use a LARGE generic gear puller and grab the out side of the rotor with the hooks tighten it sligtly and then tap on rotor again. Rinse and repeat.........
Grey, i just put on some aem rotors and now i think i put them on the wrong way. My rotors are in like yours are in the picture but I just want to make sure that the picture is the old one and not the updated one. I don't have a picture of mine, but again they look like yours in the picture. Mine are only slotted though and heres a rough diagram of what the drivers side looks like.
|````(```|
|````o```| Caliper Here
|,,,,,,),,,,,|
let the ( represent the 'rough' direction of the slots.
( for some reason extra spaces are taken out so i had to put in `'s instead)
Don't laugh at my diagram, but it just seems like this way is the way that would wear the pad the least since its the middle of the curve thats hitting the pad first as opposed to the ends. Hope this made sense.
|````(```|
|````o```| Caliper Here
|,,,,,,),,,,,|
let the ( represent the 'rough' direction of the slots.
( for some reason extra spaces are taken out so i had to put in `'s instead)
Don't laugh at my diagram, but it just seems like this way is the way that would wear the pad the least since its the middle of the curve thats hitting the pad first as opposed to the ends. Hope this made sense.
Last edited by hankscorpio; Jun 21, 2004 at 07:57 PM.
Thanks for the help.
I was searching through the members rides pics for other peoples install and every picture i saw, people had there rotors in the wrong way except for one.
This was the only picture i could find of them in the correct direction
I was searching through the members rides pics for other peoples install and every picture i saw, people had there rotors in the wrong way except for one.
This was the only picture i could find of them in the correct direction
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DIY King
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Rep Power: 419 Well... It's a weird thing actually. The direction you should have them in is different from vendor to vendor. I'm following Brembo's instructions for their own make of cross-drilled rotors (not the ones I bought), so I don't know... I guess you should read up on the matter and pick a direction that sounds rational.
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From: Miami (Pembroke Pines), Florida
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Originally Posted by ChunkyMonkey
i just need to change my brake pads...are all these steps neccessary? thanx in advance...piece
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From: San Tan Valley, AZ, US
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Great DIY... just did mine over the weekend only took me less than an hour and a half. I ended up using Brembo "blanks". Great DIY sure saved me lots of headaches!
Thanks again!
RC
Thanks again!
RC
thanks!!! 
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From: San Diego, CA
Rep Power: 0 Took me about an hour and a half, I did it with Brembo Blanks and Hawk HPS pads and WOWOWOW!!! I love the new braking feel, I drive with alot more confidence... i feel with this combination I can get everything out of my 205/40/17's...
I give this DIY a 10!
I give this DIY a 10!
i've got some brembro blanks and axxis pads on the way so i'll be putting them on in a week or two. i got one question though, aren't you supposed to clean off the rotors before installing them? i heard that they are shipped with a sealent type coating for protection. Is this true? and if so what do you clean it off w/? Thanks
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From: Detroit, Michigan, US
Rep Power: 0 spray them off with brake clean and you'll be fine. some rotors come with a gold coating on them those you need to wash with soap and water before install, but for brembos just spray them down good with cleaner.
yeah, i just got them in today (brembro blanks and pbr ultimates) and on the box it says to wash the blanks w/ brake cleaner. Also, the rotors weigh 11.5lbs each. i/ve got to weigh the stock ones once the come off.
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From: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Rep Power: 0 Just to help out ppl incase grey didn't mention it if those screws don't come out of the rotor you can buy a center punch and it i'll do the trick. It's very very very useful for cars that are a bit older than our civics or for ppl that don't live in 1 season climates.
I have yet to come into contact w/ a brake rotor that you actually had to clean w/ soap I have used brake cleaner on almost all the different brakes installed even big brake kits.
I have yet to come into contact w/ a brake rotor that you actually had to clean w/ soap I have used brake cleaner on almost all the different brakes installed even big brake kits.
