2 Problems
2 Problems
Hi everyone,
I posted a while back about a grinding/creaking noise coming from my back right. It creaks when I go over a dip and the suspension compresses and creaks.grinds when i'm braking hard at low speed. I was told that this would be a wheel bearing or brakes. I still have yet to check this out myself because I haven't had the time, but a couple days ago a new problem started.
only when i'm going in reverse, when I tap the brakes, I hear a dry loud squeaking/grinding noise that I think is coming from the front. This doesn't happen when i'm going forward (there's brake pad squeak but nothing like this).
Anyone have any insight?
Thanks for any help
I posted a while back about a grinding/creaking noise coming from my back right. It creaks when I go over a dip and the suspension compresses and creaks.grinds when i'm braking hard at low speed. I was told that this would be a wheel bearing or brakes. I still have yet to check this out myself because I haven't had the time, but a couple days ago a new problem started.
only when i'm going in reverse, when I tap the brakes, I hear a dry loud squeaking/grinding noise that I think is coming from the front. This doesn't happen when i'm going forward (there's brake pad squeak but nothing like this).
Anyone have any insight?
Thanks for any help
Re: 2 Problems
I hope that's all it is. Both noises are pretty loud and off-putting I have to get this thing up on jack stands asap. I hope I just need new brakes all around.
Also a question- on the videos for replacing the wheel bearing I see people take a punch or screwdriver and hit it with a hammer into the nut. Is that to stake it in place?
Also a question- on the videos for replacing the wheel bearing I see people take a punch or screwdriver and hit it with a hammer into the nut. Is that to stake it in place?
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Re: 2 Problems
If you are talking about hitting on the huge nut (axle nut or spindle nut) then yes. The nuts are staked (locked in place) by smashing part of the thin lip into the keyway groove.
I use a narrow beveled punch to tap out the lock so the nut can be removed without damaging the keyway or threads,

then after installing it I use a regular chisel (blunted on the end) to put the lock back in.

The service manual says you are supposed to use a brand new nut every time you remove one FYI.
HTH
I use a narrow beveled punch to tap out the lock so the nut can be removed without damaging the keyway or threads,
then after installing it I use a regular chisel (blunted on the end) to put the lock back in.

The service manual says you are supposed to use a brand new nut every time you remove one FYI.
HTH
Re: 2 Problems
If you are talking about hitting on the huge nut (axle nut or spindle nut) then yes. The nuts are staked (locked in place) by smashing part of the thin lip into the keyway groove.
I use a narrow beveled punch to tap out the lock so the nut can be removed without damaging the keyway or threads,

then after installing it I use a regular chisel (blunted on the end) to put the lock back in.

The service manual says you are supposed to use a brand new nut every time you remove one FYI.
HTH
I use a narrow beveled punch to tap out the lock so the nut can be removed without damaging the keyway or threads,
then after installing it I use a regular chisel (blunted on the end) to put the lock back in.

The service manual says you are supposed to use a brand new nut every time you remove one FYI.
HTH
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