Front brakes binding on after repairs done!
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Front brakes binding on after repairs done!
Hi everyone
I have changed the front calipers and the brakes are still binding on .The rear discs are free so that should eliminate the master cylinder and servo. This is more on the LHS than the right but both are too stiff to rotate with the car jacked up and the wheels off. LHS caliper changed twice. all slides/guides are free. Noticed when bleeding LHS front that there was a lot of resistance,although the brake fluid was free flowing into the bleed tube without pedal pressure. This I think would also elimate a blockage as the cause of the problem. I'm thinking ABS valves sticking on !Does not free with engine off.
If anybody has an idea what this might be I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
Dancer
I have changed the front calipers and the brakes are still binding on .The rear discs are free so that should eliminate the master cylinder and servo. This is more on the LHS than the right but both are too stiff to rotate with the car jacked up and the wheels off. LHS caliper changed twice. all slides/guides are free. Noticed when bleeding LHS front that there was a lot of resistance,although the brake fluid was free flowing into the bleed tube without pedal pressure. This I think would also elimate a blockage as the cause of the problem. I'm thinking ABS valves sticking on !Does not free with engine off. If anybody has an idea what this might be I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
Dancer
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Re: Front brakes binding on after repairs done!
I think you may be right about the ASB sticking. I think I would start by opening the brake bleeder valve to make sure that any pressure is released from the caliper. I would then check to make sure that the wheel/rotor can turn freely. If you have binding with the bleeder valve open then there is a mechanical issue with the caliper or brake pads. After verifying that both sides rotate freely with the bleeders open I would look at the ABS module. Opening the bleeders may have let a little air into the system so you may have to bleed it again but I would do it with the key off so that the ABS has no power. If you want to be absolutely sure the ASB can not work you could disconnect the battery. After bleeding the brakes I would still leave the key off and test them. Without the engine running there will be no power brakes but you should still be able to feel the brakes grab when you step on the brakes and they should release completely when you let off.
The goal is to see if the brakes work normally when you are sure the ABS is not providing any pressure. If your tests indicate the ABS is a problem you could pull the fuse for it so that it can no longer provide pressure to the brake lines. With the ABS dead the brakes should revert to standard non-ABS brakes. If it is the ABS I think I would let an expert fix it.
The goal is to see if the brakes work normally when you are sure the ABS is not providing any pressure. If your tests indicate the ABS is a problem you could pull the fuse for it so that it can no longer provide pressure to the brake lines. With the ABS dead the brakes should revert to standard non-ABS brakes. If it is the ABS I think I would let an expert fix it.
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