rotor upgrade for 15's
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rotor upgrade for 15's
Is there a rotor upgrade/ caliper relocation kit that will allow me to run a 11" rotor that will clear 15's? Just curious......
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Rep Power: 293 I searched and saw your post about the integra rotors, but you said they barley fit your 16's.....do you have anymore info about this? What rotors I could use? Thanks!
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Rep Power: 424 Well thats what you use. its an 11" rotor. If you look at it on an ITR with stock rims, it barely clears a 15" wheel, but it does infact do it. The fit under 15s is conditional, but to my knowledge any stock Honda rim will clear.
you can either use:
ITR/Prelude VTEC/98-02 Accord V6 calipers with redrilled rotors from the same cars. Allegedly 11" Corrado rotors also work, I've never tried it or seen it done in person.
OR
Acura Legend or NSX calipers with rotors from the same car. This requires more modification than the above set.
you can either use:
ITR/Prelude VTEC/98-02 Accord V6 calipers with redrilled rotors from the same cars. Allegedly 11" Corrado rotors also work, I've never tried it or seen it done in person.
OR
Acura Legend or NSX calipers with rotors from the same car. This requires more modification than the above set.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; May 11, 2006 at 03:48 PM.
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Rep Power: 293 I found the thread here....http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ight=ITR+brake
This is awesome b/c I have a friend selling accord calipers and rotors.....
Thanks boiler....
This is awesome b/c I have a friend selling accord calipers and rotors.....
Thanks boiler....
Last edited by HondaKorn; May 12, 2006 at 09:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Originally Posted by blackdragon
keep going guys this thread is really useful right now. What exactly would you need? And has anyone else done a larger rotor on their vic?
1) Follow Boilermaker and Dan GSR's method in grinding 3mm or so off the part of the bracket that sits next to the rotor. From what I've gathered on H-T shaving the OUTSIDE of the bracket (where it actually contacts the knuckle) will require extreme precision (ie not a hand tool job) or else you'll wear pads unevenly at BEST, and the piston would have to move further out than it was originally intended as the pads wear.
2) From Boilermaker1 himself, on using spacers between hub and rotor (hope you don't mind dude):
The spacer method is dangerous as all get out. Its stupid, and its quite honestly ghetto as hell. In the least ghetto version, you stick a 4mm wheel spacer behind the brake rotor, this not only shortens your wheel studs, but it places the brake torque out away from the hub, which can snap off the studs if you end up in a situation where the brakes grab as hard as they can with a good set of pads. The other issue is it pulls the rotor off the hub center, basically allowing it to free float in the holes... it may or may not be centered. thats not only a balance issue, but you'll have the caliper wallowing back and forth on the breaking surface. You'd basically be tracing an egg with the pad wear pattern on to the rotor.
The best way would be to take the caliper bracket, stick it in a mill and machine off about 3.5-4mm. This would be the straightest surface you can come up with. Grinding also works. Bottom line, you want the the brake rotor, flush on the hub.
The best way would be to take the caliper bracket, stick it in a mill and machine off about 3.5-4mm. This would be the straightest surface you can come up with. Grinding also works. Bottom line, you want the the brake rotor, flush on the hub.
I've seen guys using the CRV, Accord, Prelude (all the same lol), 2-piston Acura Legend and even NSX (on ground-down ITR mounting brackets) calipers up front, there are more than a few options to build a "big-brake" kit from OEM Honda parts.
For more info, here's the thread that got MY wheels turning on it.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=235915
Got me so hot on it I'm selling a month-old slotted rotor and CF pad setup just to get the ITR stuff going. Thanks for all your help BTW Boilermaker1. I'll add pics and will be able to confirm later whether or not stock 15's will fit over these.
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I'll add pics and will be able to confirm later whether or not stock 15's will fit over these.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Rep Power: 368 Then I stand corrected, I know there were concerns that not all stock 15's fit. I'm actually very worried that my 1.6EL "turtle" rims (which I will be using for winter this year) won't fit, but meh, I can live with spacers over the winter, I don't drive hard in the snow anyway. Once again.....all hail Boilermaker! The man with the brakes....
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Rep Power: 293 I know this is a little off topic, but how much maintenance to SS brake lines need? I want to get them when I do the brake upgrade, but I searched on honda tech and i Hear that they need alot of maintenance.....
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Rep Power: 368 Such as? Only thing I can think of would be stainless lines without a coating or jacket on them would eventually show some corrosion or if something nicked the braid and it started to fray. Same thing as taking care of regular brake lines IMO.
Last edited by TeLLy; May 13, 2006 at 03:57 PM.
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Rep Power: 368 ^^Yes but still unclear as to what you would need to do to take care of stainless brake lines other than checking the seal and making sure nothing's damaged the jacket.....just like checking regular brake lines.
I started grinding my caliper brackets this past weekend, in between turns cranking away at my friend's LCA, which nearly cost me my right hand (long story). Anyhoo the first one is only half done because I got freaked out from the LCA replacement and put away the car stuff for the day. I've got 3mm off one end of a bracket (the inside, closest to the inside surface of the rotor), and there's PLENTY more metal so I don't think there will be a strength issue. Since I only have a 4" grinder I have to use a dremel to get the corners, just like Bm1's experience, shouldn't be an issue. I think I need a new grinding wheel though, cause it's pretty much toast after using it on 2/3 of a bracket plus my practice grinds on a piece of scrap metal and a beer can (I get destructive when excited). Oh well, back to Home Depot I go. I hate living in a basement apt, nowhere to set up a bench & vise to grind with.
I started grinding my caliper brackets this past weekend, in between turns cranking away at my friend's LCA, which nearly cost me my right hand (long story). Anyhoo the first one is only half done because I got freaked out from the LCA replacement and put away the car stuff for the day. I've got 3mm off one end of a bracket (the inside, closest to the inside surface of the rotor), and there's PLENTY more metal so I don't think there will be a strength issue. Since I only have a 4" grinder I have to use a dremel to get the corners, just like Bm1's experience, shouldn't be an issue. I think I need a new grinding wheel though, cause it's pretty much toast after using it on 2/3 of a bracket plus my practice grinds on a piece of scrap metal and a beer can (I get destructive when excited). Oh well, back to Home Depot I go. I hate living in a basement apt, nowhere to set up a bench & vise to grind with.
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