Rep Power: 252

I was looking at these on SportCompactOnly.com they want $160 for the pair which seemed ok.

I went to buy them and they want f%$#! $57 to ship them.

I've had larger heavier things shipped for 1/3 of that price. I'm going to contact them and find out what the deal is, but in the meantime does anyone know anyplace else to get them that might have a more reasonable shipping fee?

 
Rep Power: 323

you can get brembo sport slotted for that price. try pm'ing dezod for a quote.

 
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http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/9180-141-1256.htm

ive got those and i love em. shipping is reasonable too.

 
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what exactly is the advantage of drilled slotted?

 
Rep Power: 252

Well the slots are to help gases dissipate and make the pads grip the rotor better. As far as I know the only advantage to the drilled holes is to reduce weight.

 
Rep Power: 288

what gasses are we talking about....cuz I dun know of gases being produced from sponge metal and metal rotors....

only advantage I have ever seen to having high performance rotors on a compact econobox like our car is that they warp faster...and sometimes if you're lucky the friction material causing the irregular wear/stopping can be 'grated' off by the slots....

 
Rep Power: 297

For our cars... None. They are meant for cooling the rotors down but our cars will never run that hot to make it actually functional.

 
Rep Power: 380

^^ actually drilled rotors came about as a way to aliviate the "gassing out" of pads... the vaporization of the pads binding agent creating a gas layer between the pad and rotor, causing a loss of brake power. of course this is with pads from back in the "day".

Modern pads nolonger "gas out" like they use to, making drilled rotors relitivly pointless except for maybe saving a few Oz of weight and more of a safety hazard then any thing. At this point they are more a style/look then any thing.

 
Rep Power: 297

Damit wrong again. Thanks for correcting me... that is the reason I am here to learn.

 
Rep Power: 293

all you need are slotted....Ive seen a few drilled rotors crack....

 
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In other words of Zzyzx, no real point in getting them cept maybe for style. I think Blanks are better then any cross drilled/ slotted. cross drilled just means to me less surface to stop on. Get some Brembo Blanks/Hawk Pads and your fine. Or maybe even Big Brake Kit if you feel its not stopping good enough. Also if anything slotted/cross drilled just makes your rotors weaker.

 
Rep Power: 0

Actually, another benefit is that the increased surface area acts as a heat sink, further cooling the rotors down--which is of course, negated by how the rotors are more prone to cracking. They're definitely more for looks. Slotted on the other hand, help to get rid of the glaze. And no EM2, they do not make the rotors significantly weaker, since the cut into the rotor is pretty superficial. Big brake kits won't make you stop better--you'll probably feel them become more sensitive due to the brakes reaching the brake torque limit faster.

I'd advise against only getting the front pair--the greater torque due to the greater distance of the calipers from the center means you're changing the brake bias--potentially locking the front brakes quicker than the rear. In other words, your braking distance will increase. Get brakes in sets of four, in proper sizes.

 
Rep Power: 380

you've also reduced the amount of Total Mass of the rotor, and therefore, Increased the general opperating temp of the brakeing system.

 
Rep Power: 288

hey I have a quick q do i need to bed in the pads/rotors (powerslot + axxis carbon ceramic) after I resurface them and sand the pads...?

 
Rep Power: 380

yup

beding the pads puts a layer of the brake pads on to the surface of the rotor. Its called the transfer layer.

 
Rep Power: 288

any chance someone on here has the bed-in procedure for the axxis pads?....I ask this as I have not looked at the axxis site yet....dun recall how many 50-10 stops and the other one and which is first....

 
Rep Power: 380

the tire rack has some nice articles regardign that
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

 
Rep Power: 252

I ended up buying some powerslot rotors and got them shipped free. They're slotted and dimpled. The more I read about the drilled the more I saw that they are pointless.

I'm looking at Hawk pads to go with them but I don't really know what to get. Any suggestions?

 
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Well since we are on the brake subject, is there a possibility that the rear drums on our car would actually heat fatigue enough to make a difference when doing heavy braking? I can see the stock fronts not having a problem they are pretty massive and well venter for the size of the car. But, a drum sucks even though theres so much less force, I was wondering if it could happen.

 
Rep Power: 252

I doubt it... the front brakes do 90% of the work as it is and there's no way you're going to be driving hard enough to make the drums have to do enough work to have that happen.

 
Rep Power: 811

so what do i do after installing new brembo blank rotors and oem pads? just avoid hard braking for first 400-500 miles? is there some procedure to do when i first get em installed?