Question w/Brakes
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Question w/Brakes
My steering wheel slightly shakes now when I brake. A friend told me that my pads look pretty good, but my rotors are probably warped. Now, I might resurface my rotors pretty soon. The question is: Can I just resurface my rotors or do I must buy new pads as well? Someone please confirm. Thx. 
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Rep Power: 0 really the problem might return but it depends on the source of the problem. Try an on car lathe, might be the better of the ways to go about it, if the problem is with the whole hub then the on car lathe will counter act that sometimes. Good luck
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as with what boilermaker said, it is better to just replace then resurface. brembo blanks can be purchased for around $30 a rotor as a few websites. besides resurfacing is around $10-$30 a rotor. now if it was my car I would just go ahead and chage the pads as well.
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Rep Power: 380 Its un even pad meterial build up on the rotors surface (not warping) ushually caused by improper bedding of your pads in, or getting the brakes hot then holding them at a stop. but any way the fix is what boilermaker said, either machine them (pepboys does it for around $9 a rotor, or just replace the rotors.
Next time bed your brakes properly!!!
Next time bed your brakes properly!!!
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http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml
Why is the pad and rotor break-in procedure so important?
PROPER BREAK-IN OF ROTORS AND PADS IS CRITICAL. Not properly doing so can cause permanent damage to rotors and adversely effect overall brake performance. Pads and rotors interact with each other to provide efficient brake performance. The break-in or bed-in procedure is done to condition the pad/rotor interface. Depending on the pad used, more or less pad material is uniformly transferred onto the disc as a thin film. The resins and bonding agents in some pads need to be heat cycled to work properly as well. By not properly bedding in pads, uneven pad material deposits can occur that may cause a vibration. Improper wear characteristics may also show up on either the pads, or rotors, or both. Always follow the recommended break-in procedure for any pads, rotors or brake systems.
PROPER BREAK-IN OF ROTORS AND PADS IS CRITICAL. Not properly doing so can cause permanent damage to rotors and adversely effect overall brake performance. Pads and rotors interact with each other to provide efficient brake performance. The break-in or bed-in procedure is done to condition the pad/rotor interface. Depending on the pad used, more or less pad material is uniformly transferred onto the disc as a thin film. The resins and bonding agents in some pads need to be heat cycled to work properly as well. By not properly bedding in pads, uneven pad material deposits can occur that may cause a vibration. Improper wear characteristics may also show up on either the pads, or rotors, or both. Always follow the recommended break-in procedure for any pads, rotors or brake systems.
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Rep Power: 255 i had the same problem with mine. when i took the rotors off, placed a straight edge on it and guess what... it wasnt flat. i tried re-surfacing it , but really, didnt make a difference,so just go get new rotors and pads to go with it
Just got my Hawk HPS waiting for new rotors and don't wanna wait for shipping time..what's the thing with the brembo blanks? can it just be some regular rotors from autozone, pepboys, etc? can anyone recommend some other brand?
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Originally Posted by cubanmike26
Just got my Hawk HPS waiting for new rotors and don't wanna wait for shipping time..what's the thing with the brembo blanks? can it just be some regular rotors from autozone, pepboys, etc? can anyone recommend some other brand?
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Originally Posted by Slow Gold
Are brembo drilled any better then your average blank rotor? Is it better to upgrade the rotors or upgrade the pads to improve braking.
Drilling offers no performance gain... unless your looking to save a few oz of weight. but they do provide a nice way to force you to buy new rotors more often...
difference in brands, between something like a brembo made blank or your average every day blank would be in the vein design (in the vented area). some allow for better air flow through the rotor. but thats about it.
so, change pads. dont bother with the rotors.
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Rep Power: 383 do they come bedded from the factory? but they make it seem like you need to go to an empty parking lot install them, then never stop until they are bedded in, in the real world this seems hard to achieve where you can do 10 consecutive 60tp 10 mph decelartions at 80%
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Originally Posted by runner1738
do any street pads come pre bedded then?
Nope, because the bedding process does two things.
1. it burns out the binding agent on the contact area of the pad (could be done at the factory)
and
2. it creates a "transfer layer" on the rotors surface for the pad to better bite in properly. (which cant be done at the factory)
Its improperly bedding pads that can cause an un-even transfer layer, which eventually causes the pulsating pedal/brake feel that people say is a warped rotor.
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Rep Power: 383 then how are people supposed to bed them in properly, i mean unless your at a dyno shop or something and can get the car going 60 and slam on the brakes and do 10, i dont see how anybody can bed there pads in correctly then, which means everyone needs to buy new parts sooner, this just doesnt make sense to me, i mean say i go have them installed i leave hte place knowing i need ot bed them in, and can never stop completely, the most i think i could get to was like maybe 30 or 40 then hit the brakes at a stop sign and roll through
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Rep Power: 383 well i have 25k on my car, and i was told i have runout on my rotors so thats the life span, on my other car the pads gave out at 30k on my 2002 ex
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Originally Posted by runner1738
then how are people supposed to bed them in properly, i mean unless your at a dyno shop or something and can get the car going 60 and slam on the brakes and do 10, i dont see how anybody can bed there pads in correctly then, which means everyone needs to buy new parts sooner, this just doesnt make sense to me, i mean say i go have them installed i leave hte place knowing i need ot bed them in, and can never stop completely, the most i think i could get to was like maybe 30 or 40 then hit the brakes at a stop sign and roll through
OEM and oem equivilent pads require very little bedding. in fact the bedding process for OEM pads is this
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.
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Originally Posted by shroomster
I haven't checked the faq yet so I'll delete this if i find the answerm, but can you resurface(cut/turn) slotted rotors?
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
OEM and oem equivilent pads require very little bedding. in fact the bedding process for OEM pads is this
some performance pads require a more hands on approch like Hawk,
as far as where you should bed your pads.... Traffic should be avoided. Try to find a lesser used road in an industrial area or something, try at night ect ect ect... its not that hard.
some performance pads require a more hands on approch like Hawk,
as far as where you should bed your pads.... Traffic should be avoided. Try to find a lesser used road in an industrial area or something, try at night ect ect ect... its not that hard.
Pepboys have these "ProStop" rotors for like $16.99 each and Reysbestos for $55.99 EACH?? I mights as well get the BB for the last price, but..are the ProStops any good?
Last edited by cubanmike26; Mar 28, 2006 at 12:34 PM.
