Question w/Brakes
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Originally Posted by Dticalman81
car shops tighten my lugs so hard, the rotors warp early. What's up with that?
Originally Posted by cubanmike26
but..are the ProStops any good?
Last edited by shroomster; Mar 28, 2006 at 11:52 PM.
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
OEM and oem equivilent pads require very little bedding. in fact the bedding process for OEM pads is this
some performance pads require a more hands on approch like Hawk,
as far as where you should bed your pads.... Traffic should be avoided. Try to find a lesser used road in an industrial area or something, try at night ect ect ect... its not that hard.
some performance pads require a more hands on approch like Hawk,
as far as where you should bed your pads.... Traffic should be avoided. Try to find a lesser used road in an industrial area or something, try at night ect ect ect... its not that hard.
Last edited by runner1738; Mar 29, 2006 at 01:38 PM.
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Originally Posted by runner1738
so will it deystroy the bedding process, if you drive home like 5 miles first, then at night go out and bed them in properly? maybe i didnt bed them correctly when i first got the car and thats why they wore out early, but it sounds like i should juist go with hawk ceramic since im sure hte bedding process will be more like oem then with hawk hps pads
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
They will be fine, THe problems start when people dont bed the pads and then use the brakes hard...
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Originally Posted by runner1738
i have an lx so i know that it will be easier for me to be harder on the brakes then someone with abs
Not really, what I mean by "hard" could be described as heavy use... like if your on the freeway and you slam on the brakes several times in a row.
I know changing pads doesn't require bleeding the brakes, but my brake's fluid is kinda low..within specs, but still kinda low..should I bleed them once I change the pads and the rotors or simply add fluid?
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Originally Posted by cubanmike26
I know changing pads doesn't require bleeding the brakes, but my brake's fluid is kinda low..within specs, but still kinda low..should I bleed them once I change the pads and the rotors or simply add fluid?
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And, is $73.00 too much for OEM rotors from the dealer?
My mechanic, told me never to buy non-OEM parts. Only buy from the dealer. Maybe he has stock in Honda?
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Rep Power: 327 Being that someone brought it back from the grave Below is the most likely cure for the problem. The improper bedding of the brakes is SOOOOO uncomon for 99.9999999% of the cars on the road
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Rep Power: 327 in therory the slotted will help the out gassing of the brake material. But for most people no, its not going to be benifical at all. I know some people will say that the vents wont help at all because of the advances in brake material. I agree that it less likely to happen with moderen material but still can happen
Autocross Junky
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Rep Power: 380 The only surefire way to improve your stopping distances (60-0) is by getting stickier tires.
the main reason for rotor warpage is improper torque of the lug nuts. Many people dont realize this, but most mechanics just zip the lugs with the gun, where they will have improper pressure distribution.
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Rep Power: 246 ^^^^true, but they can also be caused by a large amount of heat and pressure applied to the brake at any given moment. also, larger rotors, and better pads will help wit braking, but stickier tires will help the most. if you own a civic and dont have a 250+hp you dont really need to worry about upgrading brakes for any other reason than looks.
Autocross Junky
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Rep Power: 380 You'll be able to run the brakes harder, longer... But if you keep the same tires, your stopping distances wont have changed much if at all.
Ask the guys at Stoptech and they'll tell you the same thing.
A little 101 on brakes
Class 1: Those poor Rotors
Clas 2: Braking
Systems…in Plain English
Last edited by Zzyzx; Feb 5, 2007 at 10:48 AM.
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