Rep Power: 0

I have had Hawk HPS pads on my car for a few months 10k right now. They worked good with the stock rotors till the rotors started to suck. I now have Powerslot rotors with the same Hawk pads. I figured it would be ok to keep them since they had very low mileage on them. But recently I have had an occasionaly squeak from them, mostly the front right. It isnt like a only when the brakes are cold or warmed up thing. Its very random, sometimes it will happen for like half my day and other times very little. I dont get it. Should I just change the pads and be done with it?

 
Rep Power: 423

My new hawks (HP+) are doing it too... I think its just the pad compound on new rotors. If the car still stops, and the pads look ok, I'd just leave it go. You may try some pad grease on the backings, but I'd just see what happens.

 
Rep Power: 289

hey, its if its a little squeek when breaking its ok. Usually those high performance pads will make noise when used. When I had aem ones I could hear a slight squeek but the pads work great. thats the only thing bad about the ceramic, they make noise.

 
Rep Power: 327

Brakes are designed to squeek , go figure ... to different types of material being applied against each other under great force and friction causes vibrations, hence squeeks!

 
Rep Power: 320

So how are the Powerslots holding up?

I warped my Raybestos blank rotors that I installed new along with HP+ pads.

I'm not sure what type / brand of rotor to get to prevent warping.

 
Rep Power: 327

Make sure that the Hub that the rotor sits against has less than .003" of runout. If it has more than .003" it wont matter what rotor you put on it it will "warp" and cause pulsations

 
Rep Power: 452

That is probably what is wrong with my hubs. I had brembo blanks with EBC pads and when I stopped the pedal pulsated badly, then I put brembo blanks on with hawk HPS pads and now the pedal pulsates really badly.

 
Rep Power: 327

If you have a dial indicator you can index the rotor to the hub. Put the rotor on holding it down witht eh the lug nuts with even torque on the nuts and measure runout. Mark the high and the low spots on the rotor. Mark one stud and the rotor so you know where it was sitting. Then remove the rotor and measure the run out of the hub. Mark the high and low spots, and try to line up high spot with a low spot between the rotor and hub. This works best with new rotors or just machined rotors. If the car already has a pulsation this wont fix it. If the hub has over .003" runout you SHOULD replace the hub. If your broke then the best thing to do is have the rotors machined with an on-the-car brake lathe like a pro-cut(VBG) brake lathe. And when i say machined i dont mean GROUND. Some shops still have the old Bear i think is who made them, on-the-car brake rotor grinders.

 
Rep Power: 452

ok, once I figure out where the most runout is on the rotor and mark it and the same with the lowest runout, why do I also need to mark it on the hub? Couldnt I Just remove the rotor and spin the hub and measure the runout there? And if it is over .003'', then replace the hub? I am pretty sure the rotor has excessive runout, but not sure about the hub?

I dont see what lining up the high spot on the rotor with the low spot on the hub will do?

 
Rep Power: 327

It can lessen the over all runout. But like i said this is only benifical when the rotor is new or just been machined. Usually this is only done if the hub were to have say .002-.005" of runout and when the rotor is new it too will have SOME runout. Then by indexing the two together it can sometimes lessent eh over all runout of the two combined. But yes if the hub has over .003" runout it should be replaced.

 
Rep Power: 0

The brakes are awesome, The only thing I might change is the pads to the Stillen Metal MAtrix. I had those on my Saturn with the powerslots and there is a slight difference in the braking, the stillen hold up better when getting off the highway. But the powerslots are now my second set on the second car, love them wouldnt change for anything.

 
Rep Power: 270

I noe that stock brakes are diff compared to hawks or w.e but whenever i see someone abuse their brakes by slamming em or use it to the point where your car is being haulted to a stop that they start squeeking. my parents have some wierd braking pattern that instead of holding their brakes sooner so that they come to a smooth stop, they get pretty far up and then hit their brakes making the car jerk up and then slam down. idk wat it is with hawks tho. so to me it really is just something to do with braking patterns or something.

 
Rep Power: 468

those do that....happened to me

 
Rep Power: 0

I would recommend Pro Akebono pads myself. They are not listed as sport pads or wahtever but I think they are awsome. I put them on 4 cars so far and not one of them has sqeeked even once. They have a high resistance to fade and they give a good bite. Personaly I would not buy anything else even if it did give a little better braking because alot of these aftermarket pads sqeek.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah this can happen if you get the brakes too hot. on my old subaru after I glazed the pads(slammed on the brakes at 115 mph) and by the time I hit 50 I had no brakes and I had to swerve to avoid an accident then wait 20 seconds for the brakes to cool down before stopping.
After that they sqeeked all of the time. When I took the brakes apart the backing pads had come lose and the grease had dried up and the rotors were done for.
Heat = less braking power and more sqeeking...

 
Rep Power: 327

Actually, heat reduces braking distance to a certain point, depending on pad material