i just bought new caliper/rotors...help me
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ThE FaMiLy SeDaN
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i just bought new caliper/rotors...help me
ok i got some wilwood 4 piston calipers..and 2 peice 12.29 rotors...i was told that unless i AutoX i dont really need SS lines.. so i basically only need to buy some "ATE blue stuff" fluid.
i guess i just take off front calipers and undo lines and then reconnect lines to the 4 pot calipers.... then i now their will be air in the lines so... i grab some ATE blue stuff fluid and pour into thing under hood. then start bleeding..
my only question is how exactly do i go about "swapping the fluid" i just bleed the farthest from MC first RR but do i bleed it alot and then put more blue under hood.. until blue starts showing up and then move onto the RL side and do the same...and then once all the way around i redo it to make sure no air or what..
riley
thank you for your help. i know this has prolly been covered but im just making sure me and a friend are gonna do em and i just want my brakes to work properly.. please dont ask to search cause im searching as we speak
i guess i just take off front calipers and undo lines and then reconnect lines to the 4 pot calipers.... then i now their will be air in the lines so... i grab some ATE blue stuff fluid and pour into thing under hood. then start bleeding..
my only question is how exactly do i go about "swapping the fluid" i just bleed the farthest from MC first RR but do i bleed it alot and then put more blue under hood.. until blue starts showing up and then move onto the RL side and do the same...and then once all the way around i redo it to make sure no air or what..
riley
thank you for your help. i know this has prolly been covered but im just making sure me and a friend are gonna do em and i just want my brakes to work properly.. please dont ask to search cause im searching as we speak
Last edited by rijowysock; Jan 17, 2005 at 01:22 PM.
Thread Starter
ThE FaMiLy SeDaN
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This is the other part... this hasn't been covered I don't think.
Jack the whole car up... front and back. Pull all 4 wheels. Locate the bleeder valves. On the fronts they're on the top of the piston housing towards the back side of the caliper. On the drums, they're inconveiently located right under the upper control arm bushing. Why Honda put them there, I don't know... you can't get to them easily and its a pain. Second bitching point, you need a 10 mm wrench for the front, 8mm for the rear. Again... why can't we standardize these things? Its not hard. I thought the Japanese were effeciency experts.
Anyways... you go with the one farthest from the Master Cylinder first. So right rear. Put the 1/4" hose over the end of the bleeder after removing the cap, aim the other end into the deli container, get someone to depress the pedal, crack the bleeder, close it, then release the pedal. You don't want to put the pedal to the floor... just about 75%. All you want to do is blow fluid through the system. Do it a couple times, then add more fluid to the reservoir. It is wise to use a different color fluid like ATE Superblue because the color changes when all the old stuff is flushed out. ATE also sells Type 200 Gold... which is Superblue but gold in color.
Bleed until you've got clean fluid and no air, Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front, make sure the reservoir is topped off (the MAX line), close it and put the wheels back on. Put the car down.
thanx to boilermakers thread
This is the other part... this hasn't been covered I don't think.
Jack the whole car up... front and back. Pull all 4 wheels. Locate the bleeder valves. On the fronts they're on the top of the piston housing towards the back side of the caliper. On the drums, they're inconveiently located right under the upper control arm bushing. Why Honda put them there, I don't know... you can't get to them easily and its a pain. Second bitching point, you need a 10 mm wrench for the front, 8mm for the rear. Again... why can't we standardize these things? Its not hard. I thought the Japanese were effeciency experts.
Anyways... you go with the one farthest from the Master Cylinder first. So right rear. Put the 1/4" hose over the end of the bleeder after removing the cap, aim the other end into the deli container, get someone to depress the pedal, crack the bleeder, close it, then release the pedal. You don't want to put the pedal to the floor... just about 75%. All you want to do is blow fluid through the system. Do it a couple times, then add more fluid to the reservoir. It is wise to use a different color fluid like ATE Superblue because the color changes when all the old stuff is flushed out. ATE also sells Type 200 Gold... which is Superblue but gold in color.
Bleed until you've got clean fluid and no air, Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front, make sure the reservoir is topped off (the MAX line), close it and put the wheels back on. Put the car down.
thanx to boilermakers thread
I need TP for my bunghole
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When bleeding the brake
I suggest getting some clear tubing that will fit on the bleeding nut
get like two feet of it.
Then get a old two liter bottle to put the tube into
so when you bleed the brakes it can catch the brake fluid.
Also, don't get that brake fluid on the paint
It will really jack it up.
I suggest getting some clear tubing that will fit on the bleeding nut
get like two feet of it.
Then get a old two liter bottle to put the tube into
so when you bleed the brakes it can catch the brake fluid.
Also, don't get that brake fluid on the paint
It will really jack it up.
I need TP for my bunghole
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,103
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From: OXNARD, CA. SoCal. "805", North of L.A.
Rep Power: 360 or you can buy this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38053
or this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37201
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38053
or this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37201
Registered!!
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From: San Diego, CA
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Originally Posted by rijowysock
Bleeding
This is the other part... this hasn't been covered I don't think.
Jack the whole car up... front and back. Pull all 4 wheels. Locate the bleeder valves. On the fronts they're on the top of the piston housing towards the back side of the caliper. On the drums, they're inconveiently located right under the upper control arm bushing. Why Honda put them there, I don't know... you can't get to them easily and its a pain. Second bitching point, you need a 10 mm wrench for the front, 8mm for the rear. Again... why can't we standardize these things? Its not hard. I thought the Japanese were effeciency experts.
Anyways... you go with the one farthest from the Master Cylinder first. So right rear. Put the 1/4" hose over the end of the bleeder after removing the cap, aim the other end into the deli container, get someone to depress the pedal, crack the bleeder, close it, then release the pedal. You don't want to put the pedal to the floor... just about 75%. All you want to do is blow fluid through the system. Do it a couple times, then add more fluid to the reservoir. It is wise to use a different color fluid like ATE Superblue because the color changes when all the old stuff is flushed out. ATE also sells Type 200 Gold... which is Superblue but gold in color.
Bleed until you've got clean fluid and no air, Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front, make sure the reservoir is topped off (the MAX line), close it and put the wheels back on. Put the car down.
thanx to boilermakers thread
This is the other part... this hasn't been covered I don't think.
Jack the whole car up... front and back. Pull all 4 wheels. Locate the bleeder valves. On the fronts they're on the top of the piston housing towards the back side of the caliper. On the drums, they're inconveiently located right under the upper control arm bushing. Why Honda put them there, I don't know... you can't get to them easily and its a pain. Second bitching point, you need a 10 mm wrench for the front, 8mm for the rear. Again... why can't we standardize these things? Its not hard. I thought the Japanese were effeciency experts.
Anyways... you go with the one farthest from the Master Cylinder first. So right rear. Put the 1/4" hose over the end of the bleeder after removing the cap, aim the other end into the deli container, get someone to depress the pedal, crack the bleeder, close it, then release the pedal. You don't want to put the pedal to the floor... just about 75%. All you want to do is blow fluid through the system. Do it a couple times, then add more fluid to the reservoir. It is wise to use a different color fluid like ATE Superblue because the color changes when all the old stuff is flushed out. ATE also sells Type 200 Gold... which is Superblue but gold in color.
Bleed until you've got clean fluid and no air, Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front, make sure the reservoir is topped off (the MAX line), close it and put the wheels back on. Put the car down.
thanx to boilermakers thread
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