Hit the Brakes...!!
Hit the Brakes...!!
Well, I was just on the AEM website and I didn't realize that they bowed out of the brakes scene. Powerslot took over. Why didn't anyone tell me this? I'm starting to look for brake kits for my project Integra and they were originally my first choice. Have any of you guys had any experience with the other brake companies:
Rotora
Brembo
Baer
Willwodd
AEM/Powerslot
I just saw that Rotora makes a big brake kit for the Integra and our 7th gen. Their kit is a good 300 beans cheaper than the original AEM kit. And this one comes with steel braided lines. I was just curious. I would appreciate some feedback/info/etc. Thanks...............
Rotora
Brembo
Baer
Willwodd
AEM/Powerslot
I just saw that Rotora makes a big brake kit for the Integra and our 7th gen. Their kit is a good 300 beans cheaper than the original AEM kit. And this one comes with steel braided lines. I was just curious. I would appreciate some feedback/info/etc. Thanks...............
Autocross Junky
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People have, they are just lazy...
any way, why do you think you need a Big Brake kit? or is it just for looks (Hey they do look good...)
any way, why do you think you need a Big Brake kit? or is it just for looks (Hey they do look good...)
Well, for the Integra, I'll admit that the initial reason is looks. But the car is being fully built and I would experience a small amount of fade on the highway when the engine was stock. I'm not sure I will do the bigbrakes on the civic, but I really don't like the braking on the car. If anything, I would do the rear disc conversion and upgrade the front rotors and pads first.
I don't have a brake kit on my car, but Brembo brakes one of the best brands. They're not used by manufacturers as OEM brakes for nothin. Doesn't the new TL come with them? or am i thinking of something else?
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Originally Posted by nindoo
The question remains. Which rotors are lighter than stock? I have a new obsession with weight.
because if you really want to save weight, you could allways buy a set of blanks and swiss Cheease the hell outta them! Not sure how long they would last, but you could save a lot of wieght.
Other wise, Porterfield can make Custom rotors for you... Just send them the specs of the OEM rotors. :P
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/rotors-custom.html
Otherwise, Dont worry much about OEM size rotor weight... it only really beocmes an issue (reduced acceleration) when you Up size the rotors Diamiter.
it would be nice to have an OEM sized 2 piece rotor avalible though.
I wonder more and more about crossdrilling rotors. I keep seeing things pop up here and there where the holes cause the rotors to crack. I suppose that happens under extreme track conditions but maybe not. You mentioned rotors not lasting long. Do typical big brake kits wear out quick?
Autocross Junky
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Originally Posted by Steak84SS
I wonder more and more about crossdrilling rotors. I keep seeing things pop up here and there where the holes cause the rotors to crack. I suppose that happens under extreme track conditions but maybe not. You mentioned rotors not lasting long. Do typical big brake kits wear out quick?
well, Crossdrilling creates stress risers on the rotors surface, and they give No extra performance (other then saving a little weight). so you have to decide if Cross drilling to save a little weight is worth the reduction in service life. (also, straight from Brembo site: Brembo Sport drilled brake rotors are designed to meet the challenges of high performance street driving while adding an authentic, race-ready look. and the tire rack has this to say about drilled rotors Brembo Sport drilled brake rotors are not recommended by The Tire Rack for track use or intended to be used in conjunction with race compound brake pads on the street. For severe duty brake demands see Brembo Sport slotted brake rotors.)
So, For the street, you probably wont have any problem with a drilled rotor, if you do autocross, Open track, or are generaly rough on your brakes, I would suggest avoiding Drilled rotors. (Slotted help reduce the chance of glazing pads, but Blanks work perfectly fine too).
The Comment on not having a rotor last long was in reference to if you took an OEM rotor and Drilled it till it looked like swiss cheease (to save weight)...
You may actually find that pads on a big brake kit last longer, simply because they never really reach peak opperating temp. (Heat control is the primary benifit of a Big rotor). But be aware, if you run a BBK and High temp pads, you may never get the pads up to opperating temp due to the rotors increased heat dessipation.
Personally my take on big rotors is this: IF you are running in to heat problems such as Brake fade often, and swaping to a Higher temp pad hasnt aliviated the problem then a Big brake kit may be a good idea. However, you have to weigh the cost of increased thermal capacity, and hampered acceleration. You also have to take in to account that a larger rotor by its self will affect braking distances Very little if at all, Picking the right pad and tire will shroten braking distances substantually more.
SO, if you can control the heat with out getting a BBK, then you are better off. if you cant, then a larger rotor may be the answer.
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stoptech makes a big brake kit for our civics, accprding to their website. they also make a ceramic floating rotor, which will not fade when things really heat up. but they will cost you a pretty penny.
but consider this, and i am very limited in my knowledge, but adding bigger diameter brakes will actually slow you down, even if they are of equal weight to OEM brakes. the reason for this is that the weight will be located farther away from the axle, which will require more power to accelerate the wheel from a stop. its the same effect of adding larger rims, evsen though the weight and overall diameter of the wheel stays the same.
so, if you dont need more braking power, and you actually care about performance, hold off on the big brakes until you have more power and need the extra stopping power.
but consider this, and i am very limited in my knowledge, but adding bigger diameter brakes will actually slow you down, even if they are of equal weight to OEM brakes. the reason for this is that the weight will be located farther away from the axle, which will require more power to accelerate the wheel from a stop. its the same effect of adding larger rims, evsen though the weight and overall diameter of the wheel stays the same.
so, if you dont need more braking power, and you actually care about performance, hold off on the big brakes until you have more power and need the extra stopping power.
Originally Posted by PbFoot
hold off on the big brakes until you have more power and need the extra stopping power.
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^^Mostlikely with the right pad choice you can run the stock setup, with no brake fade... and with no extra rotational intertia (To slow down your acceleration).
Here are some good High temp pads
Porterfield R4S
Axxis Ultimates
Hawk HP+
Colbolt GTS
and I'm sure there are more.
Personally I've run the porterfirlds and the Colbolts and Both are great. The porterfields had wonderfull modulation, and the colbolts have an extreamly High initial bite. but both can be a bit squeaky at times.
To quote a friend "If your brakes dont squeak, you've got Girly-man brakes"
Here are some good High temp pads
Porterfield R4S
Axxis Ultimates
Hawk HP+
Colbolt GTS
and I'm sure there are more.
Personally I've run the porterfirlds and the Colbolts and Both are great. The porterfields had wonderfull modulation, and the colbolts have an extreamly High initial bite. but both can be a bit squeaky at times.
To quote a friend "If your brakes dont squeak, you've got Girly-man brakes"
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Oh ya, make sure you upgrade your brake fluid too.... Boiling your brake fluid is not fun, Trust me on that.
Personally I Use ATE super Blue or ATE type 200 (same fluid, just 2 different colors)
Personally I Use ATE super Blue or ATE type 200 (same fluid, just 2 different colors)
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I've also heard that with Drilled rotors that when you drive in the rain ... the the head from the pads and rotors mixed with the cooling and whatnot of the water will make them weak and also crack them.
I also have Hawks HP breakpads and they do work very good. They do squeak somtimes but only when I'm going about 3 mph.
I also have Hawks HP breakpads and they do work very good. They do squeak somtimes but only when I'm going about 3 mph.
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i have cross drilled slotted rotors from www.irotors.com THey are okay, but i think they are noisy when i brake. I've had them for over 2 years now. I think they make the pads wear unevenly.
I plan on switching to oem spec brembo blanks.
I plan on switching to oem spec brembo blanks.
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
^^Mostlikely with the right pad choice you can run the stock setup, with no brake fade... and with no extra rotational intertia (To slow down your acceleration).
Here are some good High temp pads
Porterfield R4S
Axxis Ultimates
Hawk HP+
Colbolt GTS
and I'm sure there are more.
Personally I've run the porterfirlds and the Colbolts and Both are great. The porterfields had wonderfull modulation, and the colbolts have an extreamly High initial bite. but both can be a bit squeaky at times.
To quote a friend "If your brakes dont squeak, you've got Girly-man brakes"
Here are some good High temp pads
Porterfield R4S
Axxis Ultimates
Hawk HP+
Colbolt GTS
and I'm sure there are more.
Personally I've run the porterfirlds and the Colbolts and Both are great. The porterfields had wonderfull modulation, and the colbolts have an extreamly High initial bite. but both can be a bit squeaky at times.
To quote a friend "If your brakes dont squeak, you've got Girly-man brakes"
They squeak more than a guine pig but the stopping power is incredible.
Any ideas on the squeaking>?
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