Read the DIY but still ??
Read the DIY but still ??
I ordered some Hawk HPS pads last night to put on the front. I read up on the DIY but still have a question or two. First off I was always assuming that to just change the pads and not the rotors I could just pull off the wheel and pop off the caliper with those two bolts circled in blue in the DIY and I can pull out the old pads.
I think basically what I am trying to find out is what steps in that DIY can I skip specifically if I am only doing the pads and not the rotors.
I think basically what I am trying to find out is what steps in that DIY can I skip specifically if I am only doing the pads and not the rotors.
I also wanted to add that I have heard lots of different versions to pad replacement everything from only have a certified guy do ABS style brakes to drain half the fluid out of your cylinder, and even to use a C-clamp?
Ugh this is getting frustrating and I havent even started. Why cant I just take off the bolts, hold the caliper with some string or wire, pop out the old pads, put some anti-seize on the side of the pad that is not touching the rotor, install the new pads, and put the calipr back in place????
Ugh this is getting frustrating and I havent even started. Why cant I just take off the bolts, hold the caliper with some string or wire, pop out the old pads, put some anti-seize on the side of the pad that is not touching the rotor, install the new pads, and put the calipr back in place????
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Because they're self adjusting calipers. The piston moves to space the pad and rotor properly on its own. You need to push the piston back in because now you've got fatter pads. Open the bleeder valve and push the piston back in using the C clamp while the old pad is still in place to protect the piston. Once you push it back in, then close the bleeder while fluid is still flowing out of it. If the fluid stops before you close the bleeder, you'll need to bleed the brakes. You can't skip any of the steps. You still need to get the rotors resurfaced, so they still have to come off.
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Originally Posted by Whelan
I also wanted to add that I have heard lots of different versions to pad replacement everything from only have a certified guy do ABS style brakes to drain half the fluid out of your cylinder, and even to use a C-clamp?
Ugh this is getting frustrating and I havent even started. Why cant I just take off the bolts, hold the caliper with some string or wire, pop out the old pads, put some anti-seize on the side of the pad that is not touching the rotor, install the new pads, and put the calipr back in place????
Ugh this is getting frustrating and I havent even started. Why cant I just take off the bolts, hold the caliper with some string or wire, pop out the old pads, put some anti-seize on the side of the pad that is not touching the rotor, install the new pads, and put the calipr back in place????
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Here is a DIY for just changing the Pads, if it's not too late.
http://members.fortunecity.com/4jacks/brakes.html
http://members.fortunecity.com/4jacks/brakes.html
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I always recommend opening the brake fluid cap in the hood, rather than using the bleeder valve, (if you haven't added fluid, it will not spill, and you will not have to add fluid afterwards)
Also you should have the rotors resurfaced, I got away without it, it all depends on how hard you use your brakes. I'm going to need to have them resurfaced soon though, so you might as well.
Also you should have the rotors resurfaced, I got away without it, it all depends on how hard you use your brakes. I'm going to need to have them resurfaced soon though, so you might as well.
Opening the bleeder valve keeps old fluid from being pushed up backwards through the ABS system. You could do it the lazy way but you might as well flush your brake fluid anyways, cheap insurance.
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Originally Posted by Sickboy
Opening the bleeder valve keeps old fluid from being pushed up backwards through the ABS system. You could do it the lazy way but you might as well flush your brake fluid anyways, cheap insurance.
Originally Posted by 4jacks
you really only need to flush your brake fluid once every two-three years. you do not need to flush your brake fluid every time you change your pads. And there is nothing wrong with pushing your brake fluid up backwards through your lines.
To the best of my knowledge, the valves in ABS systems can have problems after you push fluid backwards through the system. Why not just push the fluid out the bleeder valve and do a quick fluid flush?
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Originally Posted by Sickboy
That's how often the average person will change their pads, every few years. So, you might as well change your fluid while you got the thing in the air with the wheels off. It's only 10 minutes of your time and about $3 of fluid.
To the best of my knowledge, the valves in ABS systems can have problems after you push fluid backwards through the system. Why not just push the fluid out the bleeder valve and do a quick fluid flush?
To the best of my knowledge, the valves in ABS systems can have problems after you push fluid backwards through the system. Why not just push the fluid out the bleeder valve and do a quick fluid flush?
I've had ABS brakes, i'm pretty sure my HX doesn't have em
But Yeah, I could see how certain Valves could get locked shut, if you were to push the fluid up, so in that case should use the bleeder valve.
I wouldn't do the brake bleeding cuase of the time constraints and becuase you need a brake bleeding kit. Granted there cheap, but I still don't have one. Plus you should bleed all the brake lines at the same time, so that means you gotta crank up the rear and bleed those.
I'm just saying it's not nessacery for the brake job, but if you wanna bleed the brakes, it's not going hurt nothing and you won't have to do it later.
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Originally Posted by 4jacks
you really only need to flush your brake fluid once every two-three years. you do not need to flush your brake fluid every time you change your pads. And there is nothing wrong with pushing your brake fluid up backwards through your lines.
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Originally Posted by tfnaaf
Actually its a proven fact that all sediment in brake fluid ends up at the lowest point, the caliper. And by pushing all the fluid BACK up stream it pushes the sediment along with it. This is NOT a good idea if you have ABS especially. Not to mention if it makes it back to the master cyl. Ive seen some some pretty nasty sediment in some brakes and i wouldnt recomend it. I always recomend to do the open bleeder routine when pushing the piston back in.
On the cars that you've seen the sediment, how long was it since they changed the fluid?
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Originally Posted by 4jacks
I've never seen any sediment in brake fluid before. I've never had a car with ABS before as stated, but on a regular brake setup, the fluid really only contacts the hoses and the housing. As far as I've known you change your brake fluid to avoid condensation build up.
On the cars that you've seen the sediment, how long was it since they changed the fluid?
On the cars that you've seen the sediment, how long was it since they changed the fluid?
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf40142.htm
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Originally Posted by tfnaaf
I've seen it in cars 2-4 years olds and older, this article touches on it. I'll see if i can find the article in brake and frontend magazine later tonite.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf40142.htm
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf40142.htm
Also please do see if you can find that other Article, I would greatly appreciate it.
Well Crap this means I have to flush the Brake fluid from 3-4 Vechiles this week end
Can't wait to see what it looks like in my 87 Chevy S-10 Thanks Again
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Originally Posted by 4jacks
WOW, Great Article tfnaaf. I'm seriously going to have to re-elvaluate my stand on changing fluid. Do you know where I can get ahold of some of those Test Strips that they talk about in the Article. I help run a Car Care Ministry for my Church, And I'd like to start using them. We never flushed the fluid before, but I'm going show this to some of the guys and see if we can work it into a one every Two year program or something similiar.
Also please do see if you can find that other Article, I would greatly appreciate it.
Well Crap this means I have to flush the Brake fluid from 3-4 Vechiles this week end
Can't wait to see what it looks like in my 87 Chevy S-10
Thanks Again
Also please do see if you can find that other Article, I would greatly appreciate it.
Well Crap this means I have to flush the Brake fluid from 3-4 Vechiles this week end
Can't wait to see what it looks like in my 87 Chevy S-10 Thanks Again
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That's Good Stuff, I'm gonna Grab a brake Bleeding Kit and Hit it up this weekend.
I think I wanna get my rotors shaved too .. i dunno
I'll take pics and make a DIY.
I think I wanna get my rotors shaved too .. i dunno
I'll take pics and make a DIY.
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