lbelliott2

Has any one used these on there 8th Gen. I am having to replace short ones from the factory on my 2007 EX. Just wondering if they are the updated correct size. I have searched everywhere and have even call RockAuto. Still waiting on a call back...
Thanks

ezone

Re: Factory arms....

The parts catalog lookup gives the original part numbers.

The updated arms are only listed in the bulletin for the tire wear problem AFAIK. The arms have a letter C painted on them in white if they are the updated units. They are sold in pairs with the bolts and all as a kit. You need an alignment when you change the upper arms, no matter whose arms you decide on.

Please note that some people still end up with choppy tread due to never rotating tires. The arms reduce the tendency, not eliminate it. Some tread designs are just more prone to going choppy too.

Hope this link works http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...EaiR3ELZNqnUrw
Should open a PDF.

When this problem first came about, and before they released the new updated arms, I was modifying the original arms to correct the camber lean. I saw one of the cars the other day, over 100k later, and tires still wear decently.

lbelliott2

Thanks for the info. So are you saying that the ones at rockauto are the correct ones? It says in the catalog that they will fit 06-10, so i assume they are, i just dont want to order them and them be incorrect as well.
Thanks again

ezone

If you want the updated parts, you must order the part number from the bulletin.
P/N 04523-SNA-A01. Order quantity: One. Contains both arms and necessary bolts.

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If you order out of the regular catalog, you will just get the same arms you already have. That's not what you want.

-----------------------------------

Aftermarket adjustable arms are probably better for adjustability, but I don't have any idea what their life expectancy may be.
At the dealer, we don't install aftermarket arms unless someone brings them in. If someone brings in a set, we charge a little extra for the alignment (more work).

Task514

Sorry to dig up an old thread...

You said when this problem first came about; you modified the original upper arms?

What did you do exactly? Can you detail the procedures please?
I'm interested in this if I cannot get Honda to replace with updated arms at no cost.

Thanks

ezone

Ok, Why won't your dealer cover this? Have they already been replaced under warranty?
EDIT: I can't read!
If your complaint is right (last couple sets of tires had got choppy and noisy), they should cover it during this warranty extension period if they have not already been done. Parts may still be on backorder so there will probably be some delay.




So, if you are going to modify,
First, see if your car already has the updated arms.
There is a "C" either stamped, or painted on the updated arms.
Each arm is only marked on one side, so you might have to hunt for it and wipe off dirt.

If they have already been done but you still get choppy tires, it might not be the cars fault. I have said this before, the arms only reduce the tendency, not eliminate it. Almost any car can develop choppy tire tread if conditions are right (or wrong? whatever).


I got a pic of this one that has both a stamp and paint as an example
(Warning: Freekin huge pics ahead)





What I did to modify the arms was.....
I had the car on an alignment rack, took all alignment readings before I started.
Note rear camber.
Remove rear UCA.
The end that attaches to the body, I used a carbide burr in a 20,000 RPM die grinder to elongate the mounting holes in the direction that would allow the tire to move toward straight up and down.

Turn the bolt holes into adjustment slots, but only for more adjustment in one direction. The arms need to move the top of the knuckle outward in order to make the tires "stand up straighter" (less negative camber).


Make absolutely certain you know which direction the holes need to be enlarged before you start cutting!


You assume all risks and liability for any modifications you make.
And all that other disclaimer stuff that releases me from any liability should you cause bodily harm or property damage.

Sign here--> X_______________________________________









Carbide burr bit:


I did a few trial and error cuts with reassembly and rechecking alignment after each small change just to see how far the camber moved as I made small cuts, and to see how much cutting I had to do to get the camber into the spec range I needed.

IIRC, making the mount holes approximately 2.5-3mm longer on one side gave me about 1.5(?) deg adjustment for rear camber. It's all experimental, there is no real chart or guide. Recheck alignment as you go.
Making the holes 3mm longer to the side will make the steel look pretty damn thin. You will be real close to the edge if you attempt to cut that far.


Bow to my mad MS Paint skillz! (OMGWTFBBQ)
Red indicates about where I made my cuts:




One car I have in mind started with about -2.8 deg rear camber, ended with around -1.3 deg, which was within the new alignment specs.

Repeat for the other side, assemble, and do the alignment before driving it.

When rear camber is changed more positive, the rear toe is moved quite a bit positive. Alignment (rear toe adjustment at the very least) must be done to correct it.
New rear alignment specs are in the bulletin linked previously.


HTH

ezone

For anyone that stumbles across this thread, the (US Class Action Settlement) warranty extension period has now officially ended.

All issues are now the customers' responsibility, not Hondas.

asdf072

I know this is a dead post, but for people still interested:

I just bought these for my 2006 LX. I contacted Beck/Arnley, and the target camber is -0.75 degrees, same as Honda's corrected "C" control arm. I originally thought they were -0.45 degrees, but that turned out to be -45 minutes (which equals -0.75 degrees). As it turns out, my car needs even more correction because I'm still getting rear tire noise, but most cars are fixed with these and and the quality is good.

BTW: The picture used by online stores shows really crappy bushings. I'm happy to say mine didn't come that way. Better quality, and they DO have the metal reinforcement tube like on the OEMs.