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I noticed a few years ago that suddenly my AC stopped working. I've been trying to trouble-shoot this on and off for a while now. Was getting somewhere last year but then the summer ended. So perhaps with some help I can nail this for once and for all. So here is a timeline of my progress into this unknown territory for me.

Sitting in the cabin, I can feel the air blow, but it never gets cold.

Research all over Youtube for my 2008 Honda Civic Sedan shows that relays are very fault-prone here and 90% of the time it's just the relay. (Particularly if you only see one fan turning against the grill).

Looked like that was it, so I tried rotating relays around, etc. But that didn't change anything.

I saw some Youtubers instructing to hit the clutch with a stick, to force it to start if it doesn't engage. (sounds risky I know).

I tried using a stick, but this refused to get the clutch to engage.

I then saw a solution/test that described using a hot-wire to force the relay to work. By using a paper-clip.

So I tried the paper-clip, and suddenly the clutch kicked in by itself and I get the extra fan on the front grill to blow as well. I thought I had this solved but... alas...

Despite this forces the clutch to work, I still am not getting any cold air. It just blows normal air. And no explanation yet on why I have to FORCE this to work by hotwiring with a paper-clip.

The best theory I saw was that the refrigerant probably leaked out, and that the clutch will not engage with a relay if the pressure is low.

I did a quick test and pressed on the valve. There sure was a lot of pressure in there squealing as refrigerant tried to escape.

So just when I thought I was getting somewhere, another set-back.

Any other ideas here at this point? Maybe I should go one by one through all the fuses or would I be wasting my time?


This has been an interesting learning process so far, but still frustrating.

 
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Checking refrigerant pressure should have been the very first step. Just because there's pressure does not mean there is enough. Something like 28 psi is the minimum for the system to run. Most auto parts stores will rent a set of gauges for free.

 
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Thanks. I know when you buy refrigerant, you get one of those gauges often with the piece. Though a common complaint I see is that often the readings are very inaccurate.

I was looking into them before, but will dig down deeper. Maybe I'll have to stop by Princess Auto.

So fun fact while troubleshooting further:

I did the HVAC test. Unfortunately, it showed all is good with no error codes. Even when I pulled out the relay, it still showed no error!

I found an interesting video showing a similar test to the HVAC test, which involves using the two buttons on the dash a little more to the left. This feature re-configures the AC to auto turn on (or not) when you are using the defrosters. Supposedly it also helps to reset stuff when things go wrong. Some people found it helps with wonky A/C issues.

Unfortunately, that was no help either, but at least I tried and learned something new.

 
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So, another part of progress, and another set-back.

I purchased the Dura-Cool set last night at Walmart which comes with a gage hose and an adapter to fit on 134a cars, as well as 1234y.

I added the gage to the low line, and pressure was under 10.

I read A/C needs to run to put refrigerant into it, so I used a safety-pin to jump-start the clutch, and began to release refrigerant into it. This is where things got strange. Immediately the pressure jumped well past 40 into the red. Even kept running toward the max end of the safety scale. Now, I did read that a lot of these gages are very innacurrate at times, so I don't know... Never heard that using these cans fills the A/C in just a second or two.

So I finally let the can empty by stepping away safely and watching from a distance.

The only thing that gave me any assurance on anything, is that the brass parts on the hose felt cool to the touch, and that's all.

The air has no improvement though. Still just blows warm air around and around, never cooling it though. So I guess back to the drawing board?

The only progress now, is that the relay works by turning on the clutch and both rad-fans which I couldn't get it to do in the past. So I guess low-pressure was part of the problem (maybe).

Still, I'm stuck with warm air only

I did read something in the kit I never heard of about before. There was an oil analyzer. I did the test, and noticed that my white-filter doesn't change color at all. From what I read here, it means the Wet Level is seriously low. Not sure if that impacts the warm air or not.

I guess I'll have to do more research tonight on A/C oil and how to handle THAT issue, and hope for more success.

 
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So, it looks like to put in oil, I'd have to do everything all over again. But also, I'd have to use another compressor to create a vacuum, etc.

This is getting more work and tools needed than I had anticipated.

Before I commit to a garage, what's the expected cost here for having someone put OIL in the A/C, then refilling refrigerant, and (probably) sealant?

And I hope THAT's all! With my luck, they may find other issues.

 
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Priced vary all over. Best bet is to call a couple of shops and get quotes

 
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Already on it. Got my first quote today.

A/C Diagnosis and Recharge: $350 (CAD)

Will keep doing more due diligence over the week. Of course, reputation also will have to be factored in.

Now I worry, if I ran it too long with no oil in the A/C, if it could have caused critical damage?

 
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Should still be a bunch in the compressor

 
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Just to be clear, I am not a mechanic, just a curios person without $ that are trying to save few dollars. I am fighting similar situation. They say to go to a shop to recover all the refrigerant (lets called R-134A). My system is totally emptied so I am skipping this; I tried to see if I could get/find any indication of the leak with an UV light (I tried it @ night to be really clear), but found refrigerant everywhere under the hood. Anyway, after that, you can go to a AutoZone or any other place, buy some refrigerant bottles, and borrow a Vacuum Pump (they will charge you for the full price of the pump, but after you return it, they will give you the $ back - around $180 - you can buy your own for $40 online). I have my own set of gauges so I do not need to borrow them to. Run the Pump as instructed (you may find many videos on how to do it in YouTube) to empty the system completely (mostly from moist) as also on how to refill it. Keep in mind that, according to all that I have read, too much or not enough refrigerant (R-134A) will not let your clutch or A/C fan work, and without the clutch working, you cannot really recharge the system (the dog running after its tail). They are also mentioning that too much oil in the system (when you refiled it with cans of refrigerant with oil, or just putting some more oil in it when recharging), you can "cook" the compressor, and that its normally only the gas (R-134) that leaks. Same goes for the vacuum pump, that the pump only gets the whatever residual you have in the system (normally moist, that can also "cook" the compressor with time) but it is not capable of taking out the oil - Good luck, I know that I will need it - My clutch does not engage, nor does the condenser fan so, I will need to "hot-wire/paper clipping" the system for the clutch - I lost my patience and bought a full set of knew Relays and changed them all - also tested all the fuses (forgot to check fuse 36 inside the car) and all are good, with "continuity" - will try again tomorrow