Rep Power: 0

Saturday and Sunday I spent draining and refilling engine oil and filter and transmission and filter and new spark plugs.

After reconnecting the battery, the radio worked? Why didn't I need a code?

I still have the rattle at low speed and over some slow bumps.

I'm now thinking it may be the 'torque rod" or trans mount, a rubber connector near the rear of the engine or transmission (I haven't looked under there to see where it is.

How can I tell if that is what's causing the rattle? The discount price on it is $146. I don't want to spend that and still have a rattle?

Any ideas, other than just visual inspection?

Also, why does my radio work after disconnecting the battery?

Thanks
dc

 
Rep Power: 223

That mount is much cheaper on RockAuto. Anchor is usually a decent brand from mounts.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...rut+mount,5556

Most common rattle causes are sway bar links and the struts themselves. Could also be a ball joint or tie rod end. Could even be completely unrelated to the suspension. It's impossible for us to tell.

Who knows why the radio didn't need a code. Residual power inside keeping it alive just enough? Lower trim radio that doesn't require a code?

 
Rep Power: 125

To my knowledge, the 8th generation Civic never required an access code for the OEM radios.

Is the rattle affected at all by acceleration or is it consistent at all speeds? Could be something as simply as sway bar end links (broken ones would definitely cause rattling over bumps) but they typically don't make noise beyond that. Worn mounts would only be notable under acceleration unless they were shot, but then you'd be feeling the vibration of the entire engine through the car.

 
Rep Power: 0

That's what I was thinking from the above post That the LX has a generic Honda radio that doesn't require a code

It could be that only he EX or premium radio requires the code

As to the rattle, it's not motor or steering related It sounds to be in the front perhaps the drivers side

I have wiggled and banged everything underneath much more than one time. There are a vast number of possible things down there. Splash shields, etc, all of which are semi loose. Front axles are loose as they must be when the wheels turn, etc.

Sway bar links are nice and tight as are the bar mounts. So I don't think it's that.

My latest thinking is, it could be a tie rod end or ball joint. I'm going to put it up this weekend and bang those harder to see if I can identify anything. There is also a lot of plastic across the front end which is held on and together with snap tabs. I have replaced a large number of them with various work underneath. But any of that could still be loose and rattling at low speed or slight small bumps in the road.

Thanks
dc

 
Rep Power: 125

For what it's worth, the primary engine mount is on the front drivers side, just above the left wheel. I wouldn't necessarily rule it out yet, especially if they're still original.

 
Rep Power: 0

I think I have identified it.

It is the front lower control arm forward bushing.

I think that is the same bushing that used to be called the "compliance" bushing on the 2004. I don't remember what the 2004 looked like underneath.

i see the bush is $41.?? and I suppose I should do both sides.

But if I do those what else should I just replace while I got it all opened up?

I'm a week or three or more out on starting on it. I'll look at the back but that would be a separate operation.

Do I need a press for the front lower arm forward bushings?

Thanks
dc

 
Rep Power: 223

Yes you need a press.

You can buy a brand new control arm with bushings already installed for about the same price. Check Rockauto.

 
Rep Power: 0

Harbor Freight has the press. I had been looking for an excuse to get one.

Before I moved I had a neighbor with one which I used to press a wheel bearing into an old Nissan I had, a 240 SX I think it was.

I saw 1 A Auto has a paiir (2), both sides for $112. But. What would the quality be on those?

The new ones are $279, each, I suppose. Probably without the bearing installed.

Well, I'm a few weeks out on this but I would like to get it done before the bad weather sets in for the winter.

Thanks
dc

 
Rep Power: 0

What size press? 12 ton or 20 ton? I think the 12 ton will easily do it.

It easily did the bearing on my old Nissan. Which was clean, no rust or anything like corrosion, etc. And my front bushings are like that. Nothing to indicate that they would be extra difficult, or anything.
dc