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Just got my new compressor for my civic ex 2001. But it came with a different connector and it has 3 wires , not one. It has 2 black wires from the heat sensor copper plug going to the connector and the red wire from connector going directly to the coil. My old comp has only one wire- going from connector directly to the thermal protector. Then to the coil.

Can I rewire this to fit my connector that has one wire? Im thinking to simply rewire the new comp with one black wire going to the coil and the other black wire crimped on to the red wire, both going to the connector....

Thanks, people.

 
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In other words, can I rewire the new 3 wire set up so that the thermal protector plug is IN LINE with the hot wire/power source (just like the old comp) ?

 
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Yes, that should work fine. You will want to steal the single wire connector from the old compressor and use it with the new compressor.

 
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Thanks, Bro! I did that. So I then installed it and cant get the comp to kick in. I added just one can r134a so far, system shows 90 psi but comp does not start/engage. relay was jumped with no difference. Condenser fuse is still good. Any idea what I should try next?

Thanks.

 
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Im gonna try to pull off the stubborn connector on the pressure switch on top of the drier and jump it, I guess with engine running, ac on.

 
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I got the comp started!! I jumped the pressure switch that sits on top of the drier, and the comp started! Then I ohmd it and got 0.03 ohms. Think it is bad switch? Im ready to buy a new one asap.........

 
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No, that is a good reading. Unless you were accidentally touching the meter's probes together trying to get them on the sensor's terminals. While the pressure is between 28-455 psi the pressure switch will be closed enabling the compressor to engage.

Use a gauge set to verify low/high side pressures again. When the system is at an idle state 90 psi on high and low sides is close to normal. Also recheck the pressure switch ans be sure the probes aren't touching. If the pressures read around 90 psi and the switch is reading open (overload or any resistance higher than ~2 ohms) then the switch is bad. If the switch still reads closed (less than ~2 ohms) that would point to something bad with the switch connector. Maybe it wasn't fully seated, dirty terminals, damaged terminals, etc.

 
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But if the connector is bad why did the comp kick on when I jumped it? I dont get it, Bro.........

 
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OK, just was out there again, car on, ac on, psi was only 20 static, added a can of gas, and comp kicked on and stayed on, for a while, blowing cold air from vents. Comp stayed on steadily for about 2 minutes, blowing cold. Then it stopped, and started jerking on/off /on/offagain, violently, engine shaking. So I figured let me see with pressure switch clip pulled off, and comp stopped, the I jumped it and it went on but made scary noises/engine shaking. I pulled off the jumper, and comp stopped.

Sheesh, people. I dunno whats going on, should comp behave that badly with a jumped pressure switch wire?

 
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I also swapped relays in fuse box- with condenser fan relay, same one, and same problem. I doubt its a relay.

 
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Using a jumper across the two terminals does not give the same connection as the terminals in the sensor do. One of the terminals in the connector could have been spread/corroded while still allowing the jumper to make a good connection.

Yeah 20 psi is too low. Do you have an actual set of gauges? What does the static pressure read now? Same on both sides (high/low)? What do the pressures read when the A/C is on? Could be right on the edge of the low limit kicking it on and off continuously.

 
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Bro, I finally got the thing working somehow! I dont know how! I just put the guages on it and started engine, and all was working beautifully! What the heck??! I didnt have to put in a new pressure sensor. This whole thing was insane, bro (and ezone)!

Who knows how long it will behave for. Anyway, You guys supported me the whole time, and I thank you for that! For sure, I will be back in future (rack/pinion project)...........

 
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So what did the low/high side actually read? It's possible the gauges/hoses had enough pressure to bump the system just above the 28 psi minimum once they were connected. Still too low though.