Rep Power: 0

Hey i was referred to the experts on here by a Intermediate mechanic friend of mine as i’ve been trying to self diagnose and run testing on about everything but haven’t seen much luck with my no crank no start. Here’s some of the things i’ve noticed / Tested.
- Codes thrown of P0962 ( Pressure control Solenoid A control circuit low)
- P2770 ( Torque Converter clutch circuit high)
- Strong Battery, alternator, starter, and ignition switch. ( with wiring / voltage to and from)
- My car intermittently No cranks no starts with the only solution i’ve found Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and the car only cranking at all and completely starting in second gear.
- had a blown ECU fuse that i replaced with no cranking following
This problem has been intermittent and lingering with no issues when driving other than a somewhat coming and going persistent clicking usually lasting 10 minutes or so only when the clutch is engaged with the car in gear.
I’ve seen i could’ve just bought another faulty starter but the pinion fires as it should and gets all the voltage it should be recieving.
I’ve tried replacing the ignition switch, starter, and ground wires and have seen the same symptoms that i can’t find anywhere on google.
Please help me diagnose as i’m going crazy about this and i’m left to transmission faults, The solenoid itself, The ECU, clutch bearings, and so on.

 
Rep Power: 222

So you have a manual car but you're getting auto trans codes? Definitely something with the ecu or wiring. Maybe the crank sensor is intermittent. Only use oe sensors, do not use cheap aftermarket ones

 
Rep Power: 0

Colin42
thank you is there any way to go about this from here? maybe a way to bypass or test my crank sensor / inspect the ecu?

 
Rep Power: 222

I'd start looking for damaged wiring in the engine bay

 
Rep Power: 0

Colin42
Okay that’s good for thought any clue why i could be Getting 10.5 V at the ignition switch’s starter cable with 12V at the constant Postivive terminal of the starter? i think it may have to do with the wiring as you said but i had the same results when pulling and replacing the relay in the Drivers fuse box. i dont know Where or how to track this down as there’s really no good starting circuit picture.

This was found as of this morning!

 
Rep Power: 222

Probably due to a bad connection. Make sure everything is clean, shiny, and tight

 
Rep Power: 0

Colin42

Man this is going to make me sound so incompetent, but after running through the entire starting circuit i checked my ecu and it came back as Fitting i moved onto thoughts of my clutch so i took off the cover and inspected it when i had a no start and my clutch plate was sticking. It Threw me completely for a loop how it would be sticking causing a no crank with no issues driving / shifting the car so i then checked my fluid which i never thought of and it turned out to be low, moved down to the slave cylinder and had a leak probably causing air in the line. i secured the leak for now, bled the clutch, replaced the fluid and have seen constant starts throughout the past 2 days i plan on replacing the slave tomorrow. I Never found anything on here or online of anyone getting a no crank from a clutch leak! there’s definitely people that have got thrown around the wiring / electrical issue as i have!

Definitely a little weird i was getting torque converter codes though, im going to look into that as well

 
Rep Power: 222

That's very weird, hopefully that will be the end of it. I have a feeling there will still be something electrical going on though. It sucks to bleed the clutch system, get a power bleeder if you can