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A month or two ago my civic would sometimes die when reversing after a cold start and now it will not start unless I press my foot on the gas pedal while trying to start it (this can be a lengthy process that takes a couple of attempts). It also has a rough idle and I will have to hold my foot on the gas pedal to make sure that it doesn't dip below 1k RPM and die (usually have to do this for 20-45 seconds). Fuel economy has also been bad. Does this seem like a spark plug issue? I am not very car inclined.
2004 Civic LX
164,000 miles

 
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Have you read some of the threads here? Many common issues
recommend taking to a shop for diagnosis
come back here if what they recommend is suspicious

 
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Should have a check engine light if it's running this bad, does the light work?

 
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x2 on that run the codes

 
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I have a 2004 Lx civic, 1.7l, 151,000 miles doing the exact same thing. It did put a check engine light, P0301 and P0302 and P0300. Swapped coil packs and spark plugs. Codes went away but problem persists. Once I do get it started, it will start again without holding the gas pedal down. But if I let it set a couple hours, I have to hold the gas pedal down again. I took my intake off and my EGR passage was clogged so bad, I had to scrap it with a screw driver. Cleaned it all put it back together. I notice one of the 5 bolts holding the intake on was missing. It has no hissing like a vacuum leak. I put it all back together, it fired right up. Next morning, same thing. It seems to happen mainly on cold mornings, but every morning I have to hold the gas pedal down. I'll keep you informed on this, I gotta figure it out!

 
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Oh, one more thing Lennon Fay, if I unplug the coolant temperature control sensor, it will start by holding the gas pedal down. It won't start unless I do that. And yes, I've changed that too....

 
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Catalytic Converter issue? https://blog.rainbowmuffler.net/blog...ytic-converter

 
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Wankenstein, I've had a clogged cat, it was hard to start, but not like Lennon is describing. I actually think it is a blown head gasket. I took all my plugs out last night and scoped my cylinders. 1 and 4 pistons were really clean, 2 and 3 were normal carbon topped pistons. I think Lennon has a bad head gasket. I am pulling my head this week, taking my head to the head shop, replacing the gasket, and putting it all back together. I have already replaced the timing belt and water pump a few months ago. Anyway, when I had a clogged cat, I couldn't go over 35 mph and I didn't have to hold the gas pedal down to start the car. I will post up what happens in a few days when I have finished the head gasket job. We had a freeze here in Arkansas, so shops are closed, but I'll let the group know my findings....

 
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Clean, free of carbon buildup could indicate coolant inside cylinders. Were the two clean cylinders next to each other? A leak-down test on each (do all four) cylinder with radiator cap removed to watch for bubbles (head gasket breach) along with compression health would be preferable before removing the head.

Your suspicion of a breached head gasket would fall in line of symptoms that can cause a clogged CC. https://www.midlandmufflerbrakes.com...erter-problems. Coolant in cylinders can also cause cold start, starting issues. Any fouling on the spark plugs that may indicate a fuel injection issue?

You probably know this, but just for reference holding down the gas pedal (fully depressed) while cranking disengages the fuel injectors while opening the throttle body's plate fully open. Used for fuel flooding in cylinders situation. The question is why is your engine requiring you to do that to get it to start?

 
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Morning Wankenstein,
Nice reply bro! Not sure if Lennon is reading this, but I am!
Well, I did a compression test a few days ago and I had 150ish in each cylinder. I haven't done a leakdown test. Oddly, my two pistons that were clean were 1 and 4, as far away as you can get from each other. I believe it is a head gasket due to the reputation of 2001-2005 civics, and the previous owner said it over heated on him. White smoke does come out, but only at startup, and I believe that is condensation. Oil cap is clean, oil is spotlessly clean. However, it over heated on me on the test drive, about 3/4 of the way up on temp gauge. I'm sure the PO let it get hotter, thus the eagerness to sell and great price. I'm assuming those years have aluminum heads and iron blocks.
I appreciate the links, I will watch them now and get back to the thread.... bad weather here, I'll need some time....

 
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Also, Once I finally start the car in the morning (after about a dozen tries), it just sputters and spits at about 200 rpms and I have to tap a feather the gas until the rpms rise. Once they rise to about 800 rpms, I give it a lot of gas and rev it to about 3000 rpms. It will idle fine after that and I can start the motor easily after that as many times as I need. If I let it set for a couple hours, I have to go through the same procedures. This makes me think coolant is leaking into cylinders 1 and 4, and once it burns off, I can start the car. For small trips, it start immediately, it's only when I let it sit.
I also took all for spark plugs out the other day, let it sit all night, put spark plugs in in the morning, it started right up. They have some carbon on them, but not terrible. 1 and 4 were wet, but didn't smell like fuel.
I am going to do the color test today, going to buy a kit and see if the gases turn the radiator yellow or stay blue....

 
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proper testing for leaking gasket on 7th gen cars - no kits necessary


https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html

 
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Thanks Sjaidoji

I am going to try your links in the next couple days. Cold, wet, and rainy are a bad combo! Anyway, I'm going on record as saying it's a HG. I'm going through antifreeze, none is on the ground, and I get white smoke at startup, which could be condensation, but it lingers a little longer.

on the other hand, nothing is coming out of my overflow tank, Spark plugs looked normal, antifreeze comes out if I open the radiator cap when hot, and it never overheats.

Thanks for replying, even though this is Lennon's post, I'm gonna answer and maybe he /she has already fixed the problem. HATE it when people don't post the solution!

 
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the test in the video will show if your gasket is gone or not.
only thing is that it need outside regular tools is shop air pressure - i think 150 PSI?

 
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Yes, 150 psi straight air, no leakdown gauge needed.

However, a leak down gauge could be used and then compression can be tested at the same time to verify if an engine is worth investing the time and money to do a head gasket replacement. In the event there is compression loss that is isolated to the compression rings, is it then worth investing the money and labor to replace the head gasket and compression rings or replace the engine?

 
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Fry. Definitely symptoms you listed point to a head gasket breach and coolant entering cylinders causing hard starts, white smoke (cold starts). I had a BMW E46 engine that did the same thing due to internal coolant leak.

A block test (blue test fluid) is only accurate if exhaust emissions are entering coolant and turns blue fluid yellow or green. However, if the blue color doesn't turn yellow/green it does not prove that there is not a head gasket breach.

 
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the "farting in the bathtube bubbles test" is more accurate, some of the breaches in D17A engines HG are so small that they are not caught in chemical tests

 
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Thanks Wankenstein,

I did the Ezone air test and found that cylinder 1 and 4 definitley raised the coolant in the funnel! I figured it all along, but now I know. I will talke the head off hopefully as soon as the weather gets a bit better. I will also take the head in and have it checked and or milled. I will post back my results. Great links and appreciate the answers!

 
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Good call sdaidoji, I am convinced it's a head gasket.... Give me a couple weeks to update and tell my results

 
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Where has Eric The Honda Guy been lately?

 
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Fry, unless you are on a tight budget it's a good idea to have the machinist check the valves (water test) for compression leaks. Also, along with milling the head flat have them hot tank the head and replace valve stem seals while the head is off.

 
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he stops by not very often

 
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How much extra should that cost? I know to clean and mill the head, he charges 80 dollars. That is in Van Buren Arkansas....

 
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Ask the machinist for quotes.

 
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Ok guys,

So yesterday I pulled the head. I have only pulled one head before on a Honda, and I took the alternator off, the crank pulley, motor mount, and changed the timing belt and water pump while I was in there.
This time, I only took the power steering pump off, intake and exhaust loosened, and engine coolant pump?(egr, coolant temp sensor, and thermostat housing area), valve cover, rocker arms, slipped the timing belt off the cam (after marking the belt and pulley), then pulled the head. There was definite leaking around cylinder 1 and 4! Took head to machine shop for milling, pressure testing, and cleaning ($90.00). He called a few hours later and I picked it up the same day.
I am putting it back together today, hopefully, and will update everyone on my results. I SO appreciate all the help! And bonus, NO ONE slammed me for kinda hijaking Lennon Faye's post! I joke, I joke!

 
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I need a new machine shop. They've had a block of mine for 17 weeks now. Ridiculous.

Take a good look at the block where the head gasket seals around the cylinders. Clean it well. From the ones I've seen, there's usually some leftover debris from the old gasket that could compromise the new one. Obviously, don't take an abrasive to it.

 
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Thanks Brotatchip, it was actually VERY clean! I just wiped it down with a rag and it was spotless. No divots or pock marks. I was shocked. Head went back on easily and except for having to take the intake BACK off since I put the new gasket on backwards, it went smoothly. Car started right up. It was missing some, but cleared up after the test drive. No leaks of anything....yet! Gonna check the scanner and see if I have any lingering codes. But overall, it wasn't bad at all. Timing belts scare me, but I marked it and it was tough to get back on, but it went on! Gonna burp the radiator after another test drive. I'm guessing that was my hard starting issue, but I'll know for sure in the a.m. It is getting cold and will be colder in the morning....

One issue. I had very little heat, and only got that little bit when I was pressing the gas. It only came out slightly warm. If I moved the switch to defrost, it didn't blow warm at all. If I moved it to the floor it didn't blow warm at all. Only slightly warm on vent. Thermostat is good ( I boiled it before I put it back in), radiator looks good, and both upper and lower radiator hoses get hot. Bottom is not as hot, but it is hot. When I took the head in for milling, the guy showed me where someone had put some head gasket sealant in and had slightly blocked passages on cylinder #1. Just slightly, coolant could still get through. No water leaking in passenger floorboard, no river running through the dash...... Suggestions?

 
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Heater core may have a bubble or blockage in it that bleeding the coolant of air may solve. Also, check the water heater valve is closing via the cable connected to climate control temp adjuster. Shown in reply 2 in this link https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...2-c-valve.html

To bleed air from coolant:
Raise front end on jacks as high as possible or park up a steep incline.
Set climate control on max heat, fan off
Idle until radiator fan comes on twice (roughly 20 minutes)
Fill radiator and reservoir with coolant as needed.
When no bubbles seen then bleed is complete.
Check radiator and reservoir when engine is fully cold.

If you haven't changed your oil yet you should. Often times in an overheat and/or head gasket breach situation there can be a small of coolant in the bottom of the oil pan.

 
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Thank you Wankenstein, very thorough reply! Ok, I raised the vehicle put the heat on max, but I did turn the fan on. Got all bubbles out, still very little heat. put the car back on the ramps, back flushed the heater core, then filled radiator again (by bleeding it) and BAM. HEAT!. Good tip on the oil, I went ahead and changed it since your advice has been spot on. She is running great after the head gasket and now has hot, hot heat! Consider this one closed and Thanks to all especially the Wankster! Now, do you know how to get the chiefs to win this Super bowl????

 
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Good to hear you got it sorted out and thanks for following-up with repair resolution (too often people don't).