Rep Power: 0

2003 civic 1.7 (non v-tec) automatic.
​​​​​​
Cranks over and over but doesn't fire/start. WAS intermittent but now it won't start at all. NO CEL, NO CODES.

Before it stopped starting all together, the engine cut out on me as I slowed down(Approaching traffic light, stop sign and a turn). I don't know if it's significant at all but it cut out super quietly, nothing electric flickered or dimmed, car didn't jerk or lurch. I didn't even know it had cut off until I realized the power steering was out and the throttle was unresponsive.

I can hear the fuel pump relay and pump click/hum and prime.
I verified that I have fuel going into the rail.

​​​​​​I pulled the valve cover and timing housing, Verified that the timing marks are all as they should be and the belt is not loose at all.

I've checked through live data and visually through the oil fill that I have rpms registering and I can see it cranking.

I've metered the battery and alternator. Battery is like new and holding charge well. Alternator is also fairly new and charging well.

I checked all three grounds and they're all grounded.

I've been having trouble checking for spark because I'm by myself but at the beginning of this, I did have spark and I will verify again tonight that I have spark.

​​​​​I've also tried running it on starting fluid. It worked once or twice and both times stayed running for about 3 or 4 minutes before dying out.

Also, I noticed it run through oil very quickly, like unusually fast but the car (when running) shows no signs of lack in performance. Antifreeze is beautifully clean and the oil stays very clean as well.

The immobilizer indicator does not continue to flash either.

I'm stumped.

Update: have also tried starting with header disconnected.

 
Rep Power: 125

Check if your alternator bolts are tight. If not, it may have shorted the ECU which is why it would no longer throw codes. I believe that would also prevent it from getting spark.

 
Rep Power: 0

What's up, guys ? I hope you're all having a spectacular day and staying safe.

I have a 2003 CIVIC 1.7 [NON-VTECH] 185,000 my first Non-american car.

Cranks over and over and makes a firing sounds once or twice but does NOT fire and run.

If I load it up (and I mean loadd it up) with starting fluid, it will start and I'll have to keep my foot on the gas (minimum 1000rpms) to keep it running. If I let off the gas, the engine dies out. I'm working by myself here and don't have anyone to lend a helping hand so please keep that in mind.

I metered my Battery and alternator. Resting and running everything is in spec. Not even a little low or high. (Before I get flamed, the problem was intermittent at first so I could run a few tests with it running)

I used and inline spark tester to run a spark test. I have spark at all 4 cylinders (also have new NGK plugs in)

I tested for compression, all cylinders are good. Cars been well taken care of.

Just finished checking for fuel pressure. That registers at 32psi between the rail and the firewall. (??) Don't know the specs. I also noticed that it dropped to about 27psi (and stayed there) within 30 seconds of turning the Key off.

I pulled the valve cover, timing housing and scoped it. Timing marks are all spot on. Belt is in good condition, valves are seated properly.

I have a live data tool that I'm still learning to use BUT I've checked over and over again with my old obd scanner and my new tool, there is no CEL and no pending codes.

The immobilizer indicator DOES turn off.
I have ohmed out the grounds. Resistance within spec.

I don't know much about crankshaft sensors or TDC sensors (or even if they're the same thing.) But it's plugged in lol.

my car experience has always been pre OBDII American cars. Im really loving this Honda and happy to be part of the club but I'm gonna need some help here lol.

before this started happening I did notice that when my fuel tank got under 1/4, it seemed to fluctuate in what it said I had left in the tank and there was 3-5 times that it dropped and the gas light came on and I almost didn't make it to a gas station. Idk if that helps.






​​​​​​

 
Rep Power: 0

The issue was my crankshaft position sensor.

 
Rep Power: 132

I have read that this issue crops up when the timing belt is changed and the CKP sensor is unplugged and then coolant gets in there and does not make a good connection when reinstalled. I think the advice is to keep it connected but move it out of the way as opposed to disconnecting it?

Did you have a CEL and code stored for the CKP sensor?

 
Rep Power: 0

***[SOLVED]***


Just to sum it all up for anyone who seeks help on this post in the future..
(Keep in mind that your symptoms may not mirror mine.) (One symptom was poor acceleration but I didn't know this until I had installed the new sensor, just thought the car had poor acceleration.)

My problem started as my car cutting off as I slowed down to approach a red light. Within days it progressed to intermittent crank//no-starts and eventually came to a permanent crank//no-start.

To make a long story short(ish), I :

(Not necessarily in this order)

1. Checked my car for a checking engine light//OBDII codes and there was neither. (My check engine light came on as it's supposed to when the key was inserted and turned one click (I think they call that ON1 but not sure.) and turned off after start, indicating the lamp was working and there was no pending codes.) Also used a live data tool to monitor engine temperature and voltage with my o2 sensors.

2. tested (using a multimeter) my battery and alternator to make sure the charging system was operating efficiently, with the vehicle off the battery registered at about 12.5v and with the vehicle running it registered somewhere around 13.3v.

3. (using my multimeter) checked all of my grounds for resistance. All of them were well within spec and clean//secure.

4. listened to see if my fuel pump relay clicked and my fuel pump hummed (primed) in ON1. Both did as intended. No issue there.

5. Installed a fuel pressure gauge inline between the firewall and fuel rail to test fuel pressure. At the time I couldn't get the vehicle to start at all so in ON1 it registered at 32psi. I read that it should be 40-47, so I noted that this MAYBE the problem. (Also tested injectors)

6. I installed (individually) an inline spark tester light to test for spark at each coil and there was indeed spark at each coil. (Also replaced plugs with new NGKs.)

7. removed the valve cover, timing housing, inspected valves and visually checked timing (everything looked great.)

8. Removed and cleaned my IAC valve.
9. Replaced my air filter.
10. Tested my ECT sensor

And finally, while looking into fuel pumps, injectors and other replacement parts I found a thread somewhere (and I don't know because I haven't been able to find it since) that suggested someone disconnect their crankshaft position sensor and try to start the car without it.

I disconnected my sensor and the car started up first attempt (car WILL crank a little longer without sensor connected.)

I replaced my sensor yesterday (with a denso brand sensor) and the car is running WAY better than it has in the few months that I've had it.

While performing the replacement, I noticed that the previous owner had been in there and replaced it before me. The old sensor looked almost brand new. It was also a Generic cheapo ebay sensor .. from my research, Hondas don't like aftermarket sensors.. so don't use them.

When diagnosing this issue, keep in mind that my car did not have a CEL (after start up) or any CODES.

​​​​​​My first Honda ever and I'm absolutely loving how easy this thing is to wrench on. I can definitely see the appeal that I have made fun of for the last 15 years. I love this little car.




​

 
Rep Power: 125

I was PISSED with my parents when they bought me a civic as my first car lol. It’s completely changed my outlook on what I should look for in a car though.

Glad you were able to figure it out.