Rep Power: 0

Hey folks,
been scratching my head for a few days trying to figure this out. Hoping someone has an idea that i havent thought of. I just took my car on a long trip (4000 km). The day after I got home I started the car, it ran about 5 mins and shut off. Now it will not start.

I have an 02 civic 1.7L automatic.

When I try to start it, it just sounds like the starter is spinning but not catching. So I replaced the starter and I'm still having the same issue.

HERES WHAT I HAVE CHECKED.
-The belts are turning when i try to start it, so I'm guessing the new starter is fine.
- I am getting spark on all 4 plugs
- battery is fine, tested it
- timing is dead on and the timing belt looks fine
- I can hear the fuel pump when I start it
- tested both of the PGM-FI relays behind the glove box, both are fine
- also tested the fuel injector pulse, fine aswell
- tested the engine ground to the rad mount, also fine.

Im pretty sure that's everything I've checked. Not sure what else to look into. Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks in advance.
- J.Walsh

 
Rep Power: 224

Fault codes?

When you turn the key to ignition do you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds and then shutoff?

You only really need three things for combustion: compression, fuel, and spark. You have verified spark and likely fuel, time to grab a compression tester.

 
Rep Power: 0

No codes coming up.
Yes I hear the Pump come on and shut off.
I've never run a compression test before, is there a way to rule that out? If not then it's a kit I have to buy to do the test right?

 
Rep Power: 224

You can usually rent a compression tester from a local auto parts store (i.e. Autozone). It's also fairly easy to use.

Remove all spark plugs, disable fuel pump, install tester in one cylinder's spark plug hole, crank engine over for 5+ seconds to get compression reading, repeat for all cylinders.

 
Rep Power: 211

Harbor freight sells a decent, inexpensive compression tester kit:
https://www.harborfreight.com/Compre...-Pc-62638.html A couple tips for using this tester and performing a compression test (because you asked..lol !):
This kit comes with a lead (hose) that has threads and adapters that fits the lead's threads. These adapters are made for various sizes of spark plug hole threads. You'll want to ensure that the adapter you will be using is securely fastened because, if not when you unscrew the lead when removing the adapter can get stuck in the spark plug hole while the lead unscrews from the adapter. To avoid this either use blue thread locker on the adapter theads and/or place the lead threads base (not threads) into a vice and use a channel lock wrench to tighten down the adapter as secure as possible. However, avoid clamping down to hard on the adapter to avoid bending it out-of-round.

Compression Testing (props to ezone):
1) (Dick) Trickle charge the battery at least six hours prior to and during the compression testing. Weak starting lowers compression
2) Disconnect fuel injectors or remove injectors fuse (if available). Alternatively, have a helper fully depress the gas pedal during cranking to disable the fuel injectors. Also, disconnect the spark plug coil harness from each coil (to prevent spark).
3) Lightly oil the compression tester adapter threads on each use to help avoid the lead/adapter from getting stuck in the spark plug holes.
4) A lot of videos and write-ups state to crank the engine revolutions "X" amount of times during compression testing. Another way is to have a helper crank the engine while you watch the compression guage reach it's highest point/peak of compression and proceed three or four revolutions past peak psi to see if psi drops a bit. Use the peak psi as your reading.
5) Do both a dry and wet (2 teaspoons of motor oil) compression test. Do dry test first on each cylinder then go back and do a wet
test. Write down both the dry and wet test numbers. Each cylinder should be with 10%-15% of each other during each respective test.
Below ETCG shows the procedure :


I forgot to mention that when screwing in the compression tester lead/adapter into the spark plug hole threads just screw it down as snug as possible but resist the urge to go past that point as there is no need to and will just make it harder to unscrew. As mention previously a light coat of oil on the adapter threads will also help seal the fitment.

 
Rep Power: 0

I had a problem from brand new 7th Gen car with 1.7 motor.
After running for a while and stopping engine, say for gas it would crank but was hard to start.
Last year on really hot days the engine would just stop intermittently for no reason and after about 10 minutes I could start it normally again.
Eventually found the problem was the TDC Sensor failing with heat soak at garage or during really hot weather (>38deg C)
Old sensor had J5T23991 2509 PLC written on it.
I replaced it with 37840RJH006 Sensor from Honda which Supercedes J5T23991 2509 PLC
It was showing Fault Code P1361 when it was failed and hot.
Hope this helps.