Rep Power: 0

Alright civic owners. Guide me in the right direction. Here’s the story.

2002 civic ex 5 speed 4 door 240,xxx on odometer. . Car has been sitting for a couple years. Before attempting to start I replaced battery, engine oil and filter and spark plugs. (I would do this to any car I buy). Try to start it. Crank but no start. Checked to see if fuel was getting to the rail. Discovered that it wasn’t. Fuel pump was not humming. Replaced the blue main fuel relay and fuel pump. Car started up and ran. Did not over heat. However, didn’t get a chance to take it on the road yet. Came back two days later. The car started up with the help of pushing the gas pedal (really wanted to drive it to get all the old parts moving again). Now when I started it I noticed the tachometer wasn’t not registering. Meaning 0 RPM BUT the car was idling just fine. No knocks from the engine. Everything sounds good. Went inside dudes house with car running. Paid for the car. Got the title. Went outside aprox 5-10 minutes later shut the car off and proceeded to tie down the trunk. (Ordered the repair kit for the cable, fuel door stuck closed and trunk won’t latch). Went to go start it up and take the car home. Back to the CRANK NO START. Fuel pump is humming loudly. When I remove the line at the pump it spits back fuel. So I have some pressure. (Have not tested pressure yet with a fuel pressure gauge). Now. My question is. I’ve been researching and I find that the CPS is a common issue. I am lead to believe that the CPS is my issue for these reasons. The tachometer was INOP on start up that day. (Worked fine two days prior to me coming back). Then it was registering when I came back out. And it seems as if the injectors are not firing.

i also read that WOT on the gas pedal while starting will allow maximum air while cutting off injectors (in case I flooded it at this point)

now I must note: cylinder three was full of oil when I replaced the plug. Removed the oil the best I could before replacing the plug. I did check this and it did have oil on it and it was wet from it. I should have checked the other plugs for wetness but it was getting late at this point. (Yes a valve cover is indeed needed however just trying to get it to the house first to work on it there)

let me know y’all. anything to check before going through the trouble of removing the crank pulley and bottom timing cover on a car that has been sitting for a few year.

I don’t believe timing to be an issue. It was just literally running

 
Rep Power: 0

ALSO gas tank was rather low initially. Added 7 gallons of fresh gas and treatment.

 
Rep Power: 225

Any fault codes?

 
Rep Power: 0

No codes. Green key is acting as it should on the dash.

 
Rep Power: 513

Pull timing covers and check timing. I've foundh that shining a flashlight on the upper indicator helps lining up the marks. I've been off by a tooth and it made it run like ****. Started up, but ran like ****

 
Rep Power: 0

I’ll check the timing. However it was just running 10 minutes prior to the crank no start issue. I really don’t believe it to be a timing issue.

 
Rep Power: 513

I misread that. My brain read, "i believe its a timing issue"

my bad

 
Rep Power: 0

*update* unplugged CPS and it started right up no problems. Idle is normal. Drove it home in limp mode. Installing new CPS as soon as I get the crank pulley removal tool or take it to the shop.

 
Rep Power: 223

Do not buy an aftermarket sensor. Buy an OEM one

 
Rep Power: 120

Also use generous amount of electrical contact cleaner on the harness connector 10 minutes before you reconnect the new OEM only sensor.

 
Rep Power: 0

Final results.

Installed aftermarket CPS and it would crank and start but throw a p0336 code.

installed OEM denso CPS sensor. Everything is running and rolling!