P1362 and no start
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Live for the Twisties
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I'd also like to know the exact cause, this thread has me very nervous about my timing belt.
Thats the conversion from liters to gallons, but the CAD and USD dollar values are essentially equal at the moment. In 2008 it hit $6.16 a gallon.
Thats the conversion from liters to gallons, but the CAD and USD dollar values are essentially equal at the moment. In 2008 it hit $6.16 a gallon.
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Thats most likely the cause of the piston to valve contact across all 4 cylinders.
Here's what I was staring at once I got both the upper cover and motor mount out of the way
Yep, that's all of the valves..
Re: P1362 and no start
Yeea I wanna know why the damn belt broke or slipped... 
is it possible the TDC sensor bolt came out and in some way caused the belt to slip/break? Or possibly the sensor itself ended up where it shouldnt have. That's a mess you have there
is it possible the TDC sensor bolt came out and in some way caused the belt to slip/break? Or possibly the sensor itself ended up where it shouldnt have. That's a mess you have there Thread Starter
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I guess installation error is what you can call it. I tightened the crankshaft position sensor down the same and that didnt vibrate loose 
The bolt is undoubtedly the culprit for the belt's failure. A little metal piece in contact with a belt attached to a pulley going at least 700rpm? Yea.. When I pulled the bolt from the mess, the threads were destroyed
The bolt is undoubtedly the culprit for the belt's failure. A little metal piece in contact with a belt attached to a pulley going at least 700rpm? Yea.. When I pulled the bolt from the mess, the threads were destroyed
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in retrospect, I think I just did it by feel. But I tightened it to the threshold of when I felt the plastic housing on the TDC sensor felt like it was gonna crack.
The second time around, I put some threadlock on the bolt
I hope I didn't really deter you from doing your own belt. Go for it still. Learn from my mistakes, and just be cautious. Take the few extra seconds to double check ****. I mean, we're all here to help each other out and learn from what everyone else does, right?
The first time, it felt like it took forever just to get to the timing belt part, but the second time, I had the thing swapped, timing set, and all timing belt covers/motor mount reinstalled within 3 hours.
edit: Look at Tom. He did his own and he's running fine.
By the way, Tom, you should add warnings to the timing belt/hg DIY guide for this situation, because sure enough, I'm not the only one this could happen to.
The second time around, I put some threadlock on the bolt
I hope I didn't really deter you from doing your own belt. Go for it still. Learn from my mistakes, and just be cautious. Take the few extra seconds to double check ****. I mean, we're all here to help each other out and learn from what everyone else does, right?
The first time, it felt like it took forever just to get to the timing belt part, but the second time, I had the thing swapped, timing set, and all timing belt covers/motor mount reinstalled within 3 hours.
edit: Look at Tom. He did his own and he's running fine.
By the way, Tom, you should add warnings to the timing belt/hg DIY guide for this situation, because sure enough, I'm not the only one this could happen to.
Re: P1362 and no start
I need to get back on that DIY i havent had a chance to work on it... but warnings and a link to this thread will be added as long as you dont mind Josh.. I tightened this bolt by feel too because its hard to get a torque wrench in there too... so I mean, it could have just as easilly happened to me.
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By all means, Tom.
A link to my eff up will add a sense of realism to a potential bad situation that can occur if you screw up a small thing. Not trying to scare anyone off *ahemAustinahem*.. It's really just a forewarning to take extra precautions.. Like invest in a tube of threadlock.
$5 for a tube of that stuff will save you >$1000
and I think you may be able to fit a torque wrench in there.. Maybe.. I'll take a look and see if my craftsman microtork 25-250 in-lb fits in there.. Once Azumi comes home from the doc's office, that is.. lol
A link to my eff up will add a sense of realism to a potential bad situation that can occur if you screw up a small thing. Not trying to scare anyone off *ahemAustinahem*.. It's really just a forewarning to take extra precautions.. Like invest in a tube of threadlock.
$5 for a tube of that stuff will save you >$1000
and I think you may be able to fit a torque wrench in there.. Maybe.. I'll take a look and see if my craftsman microtork 25-250 in-lb fits in there.. Once Azumi comes home from the doc's office, that is.. lol
Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; Mar 29, 2011 at 01:48 AM.
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Re: P1362 and no start
Im sorry to hear about what happened with your car. I would be devistated to have this happen to mine. What are your plans now?
I'm sorry to take over your thread.. But unfortunatly, I had the Honda dealership do my timing belt and water pump and afterwards my car wasn't starting normal, it was starting but like a stall start if you know what I mean. I called Honda about it, took it back they said nothing was wrong on thier end. However I did not believe that. So I took it to Autozone tonight to see what other codes it may be bringing up. (its been showing an O2 sensor since 2002, not worried about it) Anyways, they showed a failed TDC sensor. This has something to do with the timing obviously, which I've been trying to tell them, they've been arguing with me telling me its the O2 sensor, failing to mention anything about this TDC code. I'm now worried to even drive my Civic 50 miles back to the shop to have them work on it since reading this post. This code is deffinetly this timing issue right?
P1362 No signal in TDC 1 sensor Circuit
I'm sorry to take over your thread.. But unfortunatly, I had the Honda dealership do my timing belt and water pump and afterwards my car wasn't starting normal, it was starting but like a stall start if you know what I mean. I called Honda about it, took it back they said nothing was wrong on thier end. However I did not believe that. So I took it to Autozone tonight to see what other codes it may be bringing up. (its been showing an O2 sensor since 2002, not worried about it) Anyways, they showed a failed TDC sensor. This has something to do with the timing obviously, which I've been trying to tell them, they've been arguing with me telling me its the O2 sensor, failing to mention anything about this TDC code. I'm now worried to even drive my Civic 50 miles back to the shop to have them work on it since reading this post. This code is deffinetly this timing issue right?
P1362 No signal in TDC 1 sensor Circuit
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when I first completed my head gasket change, I forgot to plug in the TDC sensor. The car started, but idled REALLY rough. I plugged it in, and it purred like a kitten.
I just got my car back from the shop, and even though I told them the crankshaft position sensor was bad, they failed to "remember" that I told them, acting all sorts of surprised when I told them exactly what code the car was throwing and what sensor it was. I decided I'd change the sensor myself, seeing as how I have all the tools, and it'll only take me but 3 or so hours to swap it out. I'm also gonna check the timing on my car. Chances are they fuxored that up, too. I'm never going to another mechanic again, unless I absolutely have to. I coulda saved my happy *** $1000 by changing the valves myself.
and don't worry about jacking my thread. My issue is done, and I have new issues that I plan to fix myself. As of right now, my car is in limp mode, won't rev past 3500RPM, shudders really bad at about 2500rpm in all but first gear, and takes for freakin ever to start, hence why I wanna check my timing. I'll let you know if my timing is off. If it is, I recommend you check yours. A bit of a hassle to do, but it's not too intrusive.
All you gotta do is take the valve cover off, take the upper timing cover off, and rotate the crank pulley to check. There are marks on the pulley that should line up with some indicators on the lower timing cover when looking downward in the engine bay. When those marks are lined up, the spoke marked "up" should be facing straight up, and lined up with a protruding piece on the top of the cylinder head. Also, the 2 adjacent spokes should be kinda lined up with the top of the cylinder head.
I just got my car back from the shop, and even though I told them the crankshaft position sensor was bad, they failed to "remember" that I told them, acting all sorts of surprised when I told them exactly what code the car was throwing and what sensor it was. I decided I'd change the sensor myself, seeing as how I have all the tools, and it'll only take me but 3 or so hours to swap it out. I'm also gonna check the timing on my car. Chances are they fuxored that up, too. I'm never going to another mechanic again, unless I absolutely have to. I coulda saved my happy *** $1000 by changing the valves myself.
and don't worry about jacking my thread. My issue is done, and I have new issues that I plan to fix myself. As of right now, my car is in limp mode, won't rev past 3500RPM, shudders really bad at about 2500rpm in all but first gear, and takes for freakin ever to start, hence why I wanna check my timing. I'll let you know if my timing is off. If it is, I recommend you check yours. A bit of a hassle to do, but it's not too intrusive.
All you gotta do is take the valve cover off, take the upper timing cover off, and rotate the crank pulley to check. There are marks on the pulley that should line up with some indicators on the lower timing cover when looking downward in the engine bay. When those marks are lined up, the spoke marked "up" should be facing straight up, and lined up with a protruding piece on the top of the cylinder head. Also, the 2 adjacent spokes should be kinda lined up with the top of the cylinder head.
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Im sorry to hear about what happened with your car. I would be devistated to have this happen to mine. What are your plans now?
I'm sorry to take over your thread.. But unfortunatly, I had the Honda dealership do my timing belt and water pump and afterwards my car wasn't starting normal, it was starting but like a stall start if you know what I mean. I called Honda about it, took it back they said nothing was wrong on thier end. However I did not believe that. So I took it to Autozone tonight to see what other codes it may be bringing up. (its been showing an O2 sensor since 2002, not worried about it) Anyways, they showed a failed TDC sensor. This has something to do with the timing obviously, which I've been trying to tell them, they've been arguing with me telling me its the O2 sensor, failing to mention anything about this TDC code. I'm now worried to even drive my Civic 50 miles back to the shop to have them work on it since reading this post. This code is deffinetly this timing issue right?
P1362 No signal in TDC 1 sensor Circuit
I'm sorry to take over your thread.. But unfortunatly, I had the Honda dealership do my timing belt and water pump and afterwards my car wasn't starting normal, it was starting but like a stall start if you know what I mean. I called Honda about it, took it back they said nothing was wrong on thier end. However I did not believe that. So I took it to Autozone tonight to see what other codes it may be bringing up. (its been showing an O2 sensor since 2002, not worried about it) Anyways, they showed a failed TDC sensor. This has something to do with the timing obviously, which I've been trying to tell them, they've been arguing with me telling me its the O2 sensor, failing to mention anything about this TDC code. I'm now worried to even drive my Civic 50 miles back to the shop to have them work on it since reading this post. This code is deffinetly this timing issue right?
P1362 No signal in TDC 1 sensor Circuit
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I'll try both of those things tomorrow most likely.. But my car is a 2000 Civic, and from what I'm reading I'm gettin mixed messages on Where the TDC sensor is on my car. I thought it was in the timing cover area, but I've also read that its in the distributor. So I'm kinda confused on what could make this go bad if its in the distributor. The only thing that is different is, I had installed Neology Hotwire sparkplug wires 3 days before taking it up Honda to work on. Got the car back and it doesn't start right. So honestly it could be either that caused the problem here.. Do you guys have any idea when it comes to the 2000 model?
Re: P1362 and no start
didnt you say you took it to your dads friends shop? Tell your pops to get on his friends *** and have him do something about it. If they threw your timing off that is.
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So, I got time to pick up my parts and change out my crankshaft position sensor today.. I was reminded why I do my own maintenance...
1) I don't think this god damn shop has ever heard of an effing torque wrench. My lug nuts were on WAY the hell past 80 ft-lbs. When I went to check my head stud torque, and those were undoubtedly torqued the hell higher than needed. Other random nuts and bolts seemed like they hired god damn Donkey Kong to torque the **** down..
2) there was oil EVERY-EFFING-WHERE. I don't know how one gets oil on the FRONT of the A/C condenser, much less on the back side of the radiator, but they managed to both. Sloppy *** work.. I don't think a $2 hooker in Thailand is that sloppy.
3) The crankshaft position sensor.. Ugh.. if they had only listened to me when I freakin told them about it, I never would have had to get under my hood to replace it. Thankfully they didn't listen, so I had to find the crap wrong with my car.
4) Alternator tensioner bolt was on hardly finger tight.
5) Those who have taken a stab at a timing belt on our cars knows there are 2 different sizes of bolts holding on the timing belt covers. There are the gold-ish ones, and the single long silver one, right? They managed to **** that one up, too.
"Hey, this bolt doesn't sit flush when it's screwed all the way in.. Weird.. **** it.. Not my car.." they seemed to say.
Furthermore, one of those long nut thingies (similar to the 2 attached to the intake mani) that's on the water pump was used on my PS pump in lieu of a standard 12mm flanged nut for my power steering pump. Small mistake, but Jesus H. Christ. If an "amateur" mechanic like me can point **** like that out, then you know you're ****ing up. IT DOESN'T EVEN LOOK LIKE IT BELONGS THERE!!! Ugh..
6) The rocker arm springs on the exhaust side weren't in their necessary position. Another small, minuscule mistake, but again, god dammit.. they're curved as such for a reason: to sit behind the spark plug tubes. Oh well, easily rotated in place without disassembly.
7) For those that have taken out the camshaft know that reassembly calls for some RTV on a few points. One part they got right. BUT THEY GOT THE FREAKIN **** EVERYWHERE ELSE, TOO! On the god damn rocker arms, on the bearing housings, on the EGR valve.. how the HELL do you get it on the EGR valve unless you're acting like a monkey throwing poo everywhere?! urg..
8) Missing bracketry.. Wtf. If you take **** out, put it the **** back in. Thankfully, I didn't need a bracket they forgot to reinstall: Some bracket for the OEM intake that mounts on the top/back of the cylinder head. They also forgot to reinstall the pipe support bracket for the large A/C line that passes over the timing belt.. It SERIOUSLY looks like something's missing.
9) The "platinum gasket" they said they needed to use between the IM and injector plate still only looks like grey RTV... I was forced to pay $150 for a couple of fu.ckasses to spread some RTV on a flange. WTF...
I really wanna drive down to that shop and kick them straight in the *****. Then take away all their air equipment except for an attachment to fill tires with air. Then hold a workshop of how to use a god damn torque wrench and other hand tools. Then, and only then will they have the chance of receiving their air tools back. If I give 'em back, that is.. They got snap-on tools. I'ma keep them bishes.. lol
/rant.
Cliffsnotes: Learn to do your own work. Saves you unnecessary headaches. If something goes wrong, you can only blame yourself instead of having to spend some time performing exploratory surgery, only to find more **** wrong.
Car's not at 100% still.. Took 'er out for a test drive. Idles a bit rough, then threw a P0108 code (MAP sensor circuit high input), and she went into limp mode. Cleared the code, came back. Got home, cleared the code again, pulled the F/I fuse for a while, put it back in, started her up, no code, and still idling kinda rough.
1) I don't think this god damn shop has ever heard of an effing torque wrench. My lug nuts were on WAY the hell past 80 ft-lbs. When I went to check my head stud torque, and those were undoubtedly torqued the hell higher than needed. Other random nuts and bolts seemed like they hired god damn Donkey Kong to torque the **** down..
2) there was oil EVERY-EFFING-WHERE. I don't know how one gets oil on the FRONT of the A/C condenser, much less on the back side of the radiator, but they managed to both. Sloppy *** work.. I don't think a $2 hooker in Thailand is that sloppy.
3) The crankshaft position sensor.. Ugh.. if they had only listened to me when I freakin told them about it, I never would have had to get under my hood to replace it. Thankfully they didn't listen, so I had to find the crap wrong with my car.
4) Alternator tensioner bolt was on hardly finger tight.
5) Those who have taken a stab at a timing belt on our cars knows there are 2 different sizes of bolts holding on the timing belt covers. There are the gold-ish ones, and the single long silver one, right? They managed to **** that one up, too.
"Hey, this bolt doesn't sit flush when it's screwed all the way in.. Weird.. **** it.. Not my car.." they seemed to say.
Furthermore, one of those long nut thingies (similar to the 2 attached to the intake mani) that's on the water pump was used on my PS pump in lieu of a standard 12mm flanged nut for my power steering pump. Small mistake, but Jesus H. Christ. If an "amateur" mechanic like me can point **** like that out, then you know you're ****ing up. IT DOESN'T EVEN LOOK LIKE IT BELONGS THERE!!! Ugh..
6) The rocker arm springs on the exhaust side weren't in their necessary position. Another small, minuscule mistake, but again, god dammit.. they're curved as such for a reason: to sit behind the spark plug tubes. Oh well, easily rotated in place without disassembly.
7) For those that have taken out the camshaft know that reassembly calls for some RTV on a few points. One part they got right. BUT THEY GOT THE FREAKIN **** EVERYWHERE ELSE, TOO! On the god damn rocker arms, on the bearing housings, on the EGR valve.. how the HELL do you get it on the EGR valve unless you're acting like a monkey throwing poo everywhere?! urg..
8) Missing bracketry.. Wtf. If you take **** out, put it the **** back in. Thankfully, I didn't need a bracket they forgot to reinstall: Some bracket for the OEM intake that mounts on the top/back of the cylinder head. They also forgot to reinstall the pipe support bracket for the large A/C line that passes over the timing belt.. It SERIOUSLY looks like something's missing.
9) The "platinum gasket" they said they needed to use between the IM and injector plate still only looks like grey RTV... I was forced to pay $150 for a couple of fu.ckasses to spread some RTV on a flange. WTF...
I really wanna drive down to that shop and kick them straight in the *****. Then take away all their air equipment except for an attachment to fill tires with air. Then hold a workshop of how to use a god damn torque wrench and other hand tools. Then, and only then will they have the chance of receiving their air tools back. If I give 'em back, that is.. They got snap-on tools. I'ma keep them bishes.. lol
/rant.
Cliffsnotes: Learn to do your own work. Saves you unnecessary headaches. If something goes wrong, you can only blame yourself instead of having to spend some time performing exploratory surgery, only to find more **** wrong.
Car's not at 100% still.. Took 'er out for a test drive. Idles a bit rough, then threw a P0108 code (MAP sensor circuit high input), and she went into limp mode. Cleared the code, came back. Got home, cleared the code again, pulled the F/I fuse for a while, put it back in, started her up, no code, and still idling kinda rough.
Re: P1362 and no start
Im seriously thinking about buying a junk d17a2 off ebay and tweaking it so I can learn the internals and such. So when(not a matter of IF) my engine goes I'll have a good idea of WTF is going on. Plus have a spare engine to put in!
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Lol, that's kinda what I did. I took the head off the spare engine to make sure I knew what I was doing when I was going under the hood.. I also took the head I removed to a machine shop to get inspected so I could just do a 1 for 1 swap, minimizing downtime while doing a head gasket change. Once I got into it, it was actually quite easy. Only thing I haven't ripped apart on a D17A2 now is the bottom end.. and actual tranny internals.. I've done a clutch/flywheel swap
