Rep Power: 0

Hello I have my daily driver 1998 civic LX no VTEC

Was on my way to work today and driving felt really sluggish getting on the freeway like I have no power at all. Oil light turns on and then the car shuts off.

made it off the free way and check the oil - oil is full but open up the oil cap and it’s SMOKING BAD.

car wasn’t over heating but I check coolant overflow
and It looks to be full of oil.

I was able to start it again after about 20 minutes but it makes horrible noises. Maybe like metal on metal noises.

Open to any suggestions for troubleshooting or if this is an obvious sign of something. I’d like to start repairs asap so I can get back on the road 😔

 
Rep Power: 209

Possible oil pump issue. Need to have the oil pressure tested. Once tested if not in normal pressure range (refer to service manual specs or find online) the oil pump will need to be replaced. It's possible the oil pump's pickup screen and/or tube may be clogged instead of a mechanical failure in the pump. You should be able to find info in the service manual or through online forums and write-ups.

Here's a related reads:
https://repairpal.com/oil-pressure-switch

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...p-bad-3034494/

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you for the reply. I’ll start with checking pressure. Would having low oil pressure cause a knocking noise or metal noise? Just got the car towed home.

also… any concerns with the oil being in the coolant tank? Head gasket?

 
Rep Power: 209

I forgot to mention that since oil is in the coolant or coolant in oil then the head gasket is blown or a crack in a cylinder wall or cylinder head.

​​​​​​If there's a head gasket breach located between two adjacent cylinders it will cause compression loss in both of those cylinders. Best to do a a dry and wet compression test on all cylinders.

Any coolant loss in radiator and coolant gain or overflow in the reservoir?

Read the head gasket issues link below in my signature.

Knocking noise is likely due to "rod knock". Google it.
You're likely looking at engine replacement as your cheapest option at this point rather than a rebuild. However, hopefully others will reply with opinions.
​​​​​

 
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i read up on the head gasket article. Good stuff.

I own a compression tester but not an oil pressure gauge. Couldn’t hurt to do a compression test but I have a feeling the noise knocking noise like you say may be the rod.

Probably best to swap engine 😔

I’ve never swapped out an engine before. This should be an interesting experience.

 
Rep Power: 209

Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge https://www.harborfreight.com/engine...kit-62621.html

Rod knock is likely related to crankshaft bearings issue. Others will likely reply soon and may have other suggestions for you. Please don't rush into buying another engine at this point.

If a replacement engine is eventually decided on the best scenario is finding one in which an owner has been in an accident that doesn't involve engine damage and the engine can be started and compression tested, power balanced (rpm drop) tested, or
​​​​leak-down tested (best test for overall compression health and head gasket)

Getting a junkyard engine is a crapshoot and to stay within warranty often times some new parts will be required such as thermostat, water pump, timing belt, head gasket and others.

 
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maybe rebuilding is the way to go. The engine is original with 165k Miles. It’s late maybe tomorrow others will have some input.

 
Rep Power: 223

Can you take a video of the noise and reply here? You'll probably have to upload the video to YouTube as unlisted, then post the link. Rod knocks have a very distinctive noise.

Like @Wankenstein said, it's often better to replace than rebuild. The rod and crank may be damaged requiring rework or replacement and that is not simple work. The rod bearing also dumps small metal flakes which then makes it all throughout the oil supply system. Everything needs cleaned out.

 
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completely agree with everything you said. If I were to go the rebuild route it would be done by someone other than myself.

I’ll take a video later on today. Hopefully you can hear the noise.

 
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@Wankenstein @BrotatoChip here is the video

 
Rep Power: 223

Man, I hate that sound. Sounds like a rod knock to me. You could drain the oil, if you see lots of shiny flakes it would further confirm a rod bearing disintegrating.

 
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Looks like I’m back to buying an engine IF I can find one that would be worth it. I have D16Y7 engine But for compatibility what engines can I look for? I know I have no VTEC but could I potentially purchase one with VTEC and have no issues?

 
Rep Power: 221

You could but the car would drive lazy without the vtec. Just get another y7

 
Rep Power: 223

The D16Y7 doesn't have VTEC. They'd be going from no VTEC to VTEC (likely not hooked up). This worked in the D17a1/a2 but I'm not familiar with the D16 at all.

 
Rep Power: 366

the VTEC need an ECU that can control it and need to wire it

 
Rep Power: 221

Exactly just stick with the y7 that the car already had

 
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Thank you everyone for the help. I found a used Y7 motor under 70k miles that has had all the timing components and all the gaskets redone comes with 5 year unlimited miles warranty. Once I order they say it’s 7-10 business days to deliver so I’ll be back in a few weeks if I have questions. 😊

 
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@Wankenstein @BrotatoChip making some good progress on the engine. I have the wiring harness, intake manifold, exhaust , injector rail, all cooling and vacuum lines, also most of the drive belt components removed.

I think I’m ready to remove half shafts and linkage from below.

my question is… can I remove both half shafts from transmission without having issues with the gearbox? I’ve only ever taken off one side at a time. Also should the flex plate or torque converter be replaced whatever it is called for the automatic transmission?

thank you!

 
Rep Power: 223

Remove both axles? Yes, you can pop them both out.

The replacement engine will either come with a flywheel (manual transmission) or a flex/drive plate (auto transmission). Just make it match your current engine.
-If both have a flywheel, you should probably swap the old flywheel onto the replacement engine so clutch works as before.
-If both have flex/drive plate, should be no issue leaving as they are.
-If replacement has flywheel and old has flex/drive plate, remove 'new' flywheel and install 'old' flex plate. Make sure you remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft.
-If replacement has flex/drive plate and old has flywheel, remove 'new' flex/drive plate and install 'old' flywheel. Make sure you install a new pilot bearing into the end of the crankshaft.

 
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just wanted to come back with an update.

I have the engine and transmission removed from the vehicle 😊

but one thing I think I messed up was I separated the engine and transmission without loosening the torque convertor bolts so the TC came out attached to the engine. (See picture)

can I just push the TC back onto the transmission or do I need to do anything before doing that?

also the replacement engine showed up and the seller lied about the mileage and condition so I sent it back. Showed up with triple the mileage it claimed to have and Low compression on cylinder 1 and 2.

Decided on a complete rebuild instead. Found a local machine shop/engine repair that was willing to do the work for a fair price.

 
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The sensor above the oil filter is my knock sensor? Not sure if I broke it taking the harness off 😢

 
Rep Power: 221

Yep knock sensor. You can put the torque converter back on the trans, just make sure it's fully seated

 
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after looking at a few diagrams and digging a little deeper I’m thinking it’s an oil sensor. I don’t think this engine uses a knock sensor. There is an empty spot with threads but no sensor and no engine code

 
Rep Power: 223

You are partly correct. That sensor above the filter is the low oil pressure switch. It controls the low oil pressure light in the cluster. You should still have a knock sensor. I think it's located on the same side, just further towards the transmission end.

 
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Update on engine*

had a machine shop / engine repair rebuild the motor. Ended up being a broken connecting rod on cylinder 3.

engine has all new parts block and head rebuilt. New valves, seals, pistons, rods, gaskets and timing kit etc.. Basically a brand new engine but with original block and head.

don’t have time to put it back in today but I’ll be working on putting engine and transmission back in a little each day.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok I’m back. Sorry the process has been slow with work and other things getting in the way but I’m ready to start putting all the pieces back together. I have the engine and transmission bolted back together. The torque converter popped back in like someone had mentioned above.

questions I have are do I need any kind of thread-lock on the 8 torque converter bolts and is there a torque spec that I should follow or can I just thread them on and make sure they are snug?

 
Rep Power: 223

The spec for the eight flex plate to torque converter bolts is 8.7 lb-ft. No thread lock required.

 
Rep Power: 221

Not going to hurt anything if you want to put some blue loctite on for your own peace of mind

 
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thank you, engine is back in and everything bolted back together. I started the car and it runs but it doesn’t sounds that great. Like maybe the idle is off or something? One other thing is that the cooling fan doesn’t turn on. The relay clicks crazy but nothing from the fan. There was a jumper shoved into the connector that goes near the thermostat on the back side of the engine that I removed. Any ideas?


edit* engine code came up P0118 ECT sensor high voltage.

 
Rep Power: 221

Buy an oem sensor. Ignition timing might need to be adjusted