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Thread #2

Issue of the Day:

Dash BRAKE LIGHT ON

Front Discs (L&R) Rotors - even wear. Calipers - sprung & tight, flush grip. Pads like new. Pedal grips early, well-modulated & consistent feel. No wheel or suspension vibrations.

Rear Drums and Hand/Emergency Brake cable untouched, pending advisement.

Any thoughts re: Step #1 ?

Cheers All!

Jim

 
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Did you check the brake fluid level?

 
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Colin42,

Thanks for the reply.

Yes. Brake fluid is all good.

Hand Brake not "biting" until +/-70 degrees lift, and then, full-pull only slows to halt.

No skid drifting for 79 year old Mom. Haha

Just needing tips on process of cable adjustment - at lever with console removed to contact point on drum. No precise Youtube vids found.

Happy Honda motoring, mate!

Jim

 
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So, from my understanding, the light that comes on when the e-brake is engaged is stuck on, and the e-brake doesn't bite until pulled super high?

The brake light on and the length of pull issue may be purely coincidental. IIRC, at least on the 7thgen, the "spec" is something like clicks, so tighten the adjustment bolt accordingly. Tighten the adjustment nut, pull up on the lever, rinse and repeat. After it's adjusted to your liking, Take it for a test drive, you shouldn't feel any resistance at all. Alternatively, you can jack up the rear end and ensure the wheel spins freely.

The brake light may be symptomatic of a stuck on switch. I'd take the switch out and test with a multimeter and see if resistance is indicated (e.g. circuit continuity) with the switch not being activated. Truth be told, I'm not sure if it's an NO or NS switch, so you'll have to activate the switch manually while testing to see if circuit continuity is indicated in both activated and non-activated switch positions. If you need to replace it, luckily, it's a fairly inexpensive part. List price is $13.52, dealership price will likely be in the $15-25 +tax range, Majestic Honda lists the part for $9.57 plus shipping (came out to about $20 shipped to Vegas). Part number for the switch is 47342-S04-003

edit: (if you know how electronics work, you can probably disregard most of the info in this edit. It's really for the edification of those that don't know how switches and what have you work)
upon contemplation, the switch may be a NS switch, meaning with no external forces applied to the switch, the circuit will be completed, thus illuminating the brake light. Depressing the switch all the way (i.e. parking brake all the way down) causes the circuit to open, thus the brake light would not be illuminated.

 
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have the rear up on jackstands, remove the rear half of the center console (just a bunch of phillips screws) there might even be an access panel that you can just pop out with a screw driver, can't remember if thats 6th or 7th gen. tighten the nut until parking brake engages at an acceptable place. make sure that the wheels aren't dragging with the hand brake all the way down. Also make sure each wheel is adjusted evenly.

So if the light is staying on and everything else is good i would think a failed switch as well. but it might be the brake fluid level switch or the parking brake switch, you'll have to test both

 
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Easiest and fastest test, by far, would be testing with a multimeter. Just saying. Lol

 
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Oh 100% just saying it maybe the other switch if that one tests good.
Come to think of it, having to yank the brake up super high may have damaged the switch, jamming it closed or something