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hey guys, i started having window problems. the 2 passenger side windows stopped working on me. at first it was the rear passenger side, it started working at times and not at times. then it started on my front passenger door. started working at times then not at times. now both passenger sides don't work on my driver switch, or their own switches as well. how can i diagnose this? or any possible fixes? all help is greatly appreciated. thanks!

 
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Have you tried looking at the fuses. Check the fuses and see if they are blown if not get some windex and skirt it where the the switch is to roll it up and down then try that. If that does not work then maybe there is either a wire issue or the motor is blown in them.

 
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First, get a service manual, it can be your best friend. http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage...051&Style=helm Second, check fuses. Third, do master switch testing (that's what the manual is for).
It's very unlikely that 2 windows will quit working like that. That's why I surmise it's the master switch. If you don't want/can't test try replacing the master switch in the driver's door.

 
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thanks, i was wondering if we had a downloadable manual.i have a haynes manual and the cars original manual, unless this is just a download for the original manual. i have the same for my 90 legend and it is very helpful.will report back. thanks

 
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What year is it ??

 
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2001 Civic LX 4 dr Auto.

 
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Here are the schematics.

There is a tsb about the master switches failing. https://www.civicforums.com/forums/a...3&d=1226445509

 
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usually the switches can be opened and cleaned inside. they develop black soot over time and lose contact with the slide pins.

 
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thanks guys, i have the haynes manual as well and was looking at the wiring diagram, although i don't understand them very well. could someone explain to me how to test for continuity? i have a volt meter and some test clips to test the pins but i don't know whuch pins to hook up to + & - and which to test for continuity and what not. i just got done testing my fuel pump relay on my Legend when i had fuel flow probs a few weeks ago. anyways. where are those pages from craigW? i would like to have a pdf manual on my computer as well as sometimes it is better to understand certain things reading them all in the haynes, car manual, and online versions. thanks and will stay tuned to hear from y'all. thanks!

 
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Continuity is a resistance check (btw never have any power applied when using Ohms mode) A properly operating switch will show 0 Ohms when closed, a coil or motor winding will also have a very low resistance reading.

In your case I would see if you are getting voltage reaching the motors or not and go back from there. One thing that I did on my 05 was to apply power to the motor directly from the battery (disconnect and isolate the motor from the rest of circuit first)

Test the voltage at the motors 1st.

 
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k might be a lil' dif. when i tested my legend's fuel relay there were 8 pins and it was for example posotive to pin 4 and negative to pin 8 and there should be continuity between pins 5 & 7.

i know how to test the harness' but i just need tot know where to plug the positive and the negative.

i see you are saying take the motor out and wiring it directly to the battery posotive and negative. that part i can understand but just need to know which wire is positive and which is negative.

 
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The polarity is reversed across the window motors 2 leads to change the direction of the windows travel.

If you have a digital meter it will read - voltage in display, if you have an analog meter you will need to reverse the meters probes to read.

 
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okay, so it's like my acura's power antenna.+ & - one way makes it extend and switching makes it retract, i'll test the motors, but i would rather test the harness' first but just need to know which pins/connecter slots to put the prongs to.i'm assuming you insert the prongs and press the assigned window switches and it'll show voltage or continuity depending on what the switch is.havent really messed around with this car, but i have done lots of diagnosing on my 90 legend in which i beleive should be similar in some states; and just mainly need a run through on some tests if i havent done em before and need to know which wires i'm testing.

 
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Leave the motors connected when measuring voltage to them (the wire colors and connector pin#s are all in the linked schematic)

Some probes are sharp enough to pierce the insulation to measure (hard to do 2 at once though) I sometimes slice off a small bit of insulation with razor blade to access bare wire (remember to tape it up when finished)

Your switch may test fine with a meter and still not work when connected to the system.

Measure the voltage to the motors and go from there.

 
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does any one have the schematics to an 89 civic sedan windows?? i really need them especially driver side. thank you

 
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^The tsb was for 7th gen models.^

Here is a schematic for a 91, it was the only one for that generation shown, it should help.

 
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Hey guys I'm having some issues with my power windows in my 2004 Civic LX. I tried to let down my passenger side window from the driver side switch and heard a "pop." First thing i thought was the fuse blew. I checked it out and sure enough it was the fuse. I replaced the fuse and repeated. Same result; blown fuse. Just to make sure, i put another fuse in and this time tried to let down the window on the passenger side switch. This time no blown fuse, but the window didn't roll down either. Nothing happens at all. Anybody had any issues like this?

** Sorry for bumping this old thread! **

 
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Something is shorted.

Pull back the rubber wire boot in the door hinge area and look for broken wires

Or pry out the tiny plastic cover at the bottom of the pocket in the drivers door. Unscrew the phillips head screw then pull up to pop the pocket out. Inspect the back side of the switch box for burn marks and the wires for burns or melting.

 
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Thanks for the advice. I'll try that this weekend and see what i can come up with!