Loud rattle at idle!
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Loud rattle at idle!
Hey guys,
Recently I have noticed that when my car is running in park I hear a loud rattle. At first it seems like it's coming from the glove box, but there is nothing in there to vibrate. It sounds like it's from the front of the car, but it's louder inside than outside. Also, it only seems to make the noise if the car is parked on a slight incline and there is more engine vibration. It sounds like the car is falling apart! When I rev it, the sound goes away, but comes right back when dropping down to idle again. All I have on is AEM SRI.
Note: this is different from the growling sound I mentioned before that the engine makes at higher rpms when accelerating. This seems to happen when the car is hot. Maybe loose heat shield? I don't know.
Thanks for any insight.[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
Recently I have noticed that when my car is running in park I hear a loud rattle. At first it seems like it's coming from the glove box, but there is nothing in there to vibrate. It sounds like it's from the front of the car, but it's louder inside than outside. Also, it only seems to make the noise if the car is parked on a slight incline and there is more engine vibration. It sounds like the car is falling apart! When I rev it, the sound goes away, but comes right back when dropping down to idle again. All I have on is AEM SRI.
Note: this is different from the growling sound I mentioned before that the engine makes at higher rpms when accelerating. This seems to happen when the car is hot. Maybe loose heat shield? I don't know.
Thanks for any insight.[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
if it can be heard outside the car, id bet the farm its your throw-out bearing on the clutch. this sounds like the 1st early warning sign. trust me, i went through 2 clutch kits already. despite what many people on this site say.... if your used to a performance car, or heavily modded tunner, you will break the drivetrain on this car very easily. ive been hanging around my local dealership, always asking questions about our 7thgen. the transmission parts are inferior to the motor. unless replaced with stronger syncros, ect, these cars mixed with the driver who either cannot shift properly, or drives the car above its factory tunned limits, will destroy it. these syncros are real small, and if you get the opportunity to see one up close you will understand just how easy it is to miss a gears a strip the syncro. many of these civics are visiting the service shop, not only for warranty issuse (gears popping out, ect) but because they expect the car to perform as a vette. thats a little off the topic but if your push in your clutch and the noise goes away, its your clutch. just my 2 cents.
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Thanks for the info. Sorry I forgot to mention I have an auto trans and I only take it past 4k rpms a few times a week. If this is enough to cause problems, I wonder why Honda even invented vtec.
Does what you say also apply for an auto trans? I've heard about the tranny problems on these cars. It's too bad they're not made very well.
By the way, I bought a civic because I expected it to perform like a civic--all show and no go. I don't expect it to go fast, just look good.[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/IMG]
Does what you say also apply for an auto trans? I've heard about the tranny problems on these cars. It's too bad they're not made very well.
By the way, I bought a civic because I expected it to perform like a civic--all show and no go. I don't expect it to go fast, just look good.[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/IMG]
I know this sounds stupid but check your glovebox. I had the little metal thing in mine that held down the spare in the trunk and it took a month to find it. Radar detectors rattle too, and so can the windshield visors that you flip down, try pushing on them when it starts and see if it goes away.
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I found the problem! It's the K&N filter on my SRI. The metal that the rubber part sits on is vibrating when the filter shakes. I don't know how this can be, but when I push down on the filter, the rattle stops! I'm gonna go find something soft to stick between there.[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
I have that problem too. The sound only goes away when the compressor is off or I clutch in when the compressor is on. Had the dealership change my clutch bearing once. The sound was still there, so I gave up hope on a cure.
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: gearbox
I found the problem! It's the K&N filter on my SRI. The metal that the rubber part sits on is vibrating when the filter shakes. I don't know how this can be, but when I push down on the filter, the rattle stops! I'm gonna go find something soft to stick between there.[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: gearbox
I found the problem! It's the K&N filter on my SRI. The metal that the rubber part sits on is vibrating when the filter shakes. I don't know how this can be, but when I push down on the filter, the rattle stops! I'm gonna go find something soft to stick between there.[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][hr]
2Hottie
I just started having the same problem this morning its been driving me nuts it sounds like cans clinging, i only hear it when i give it gas i hpe it aint nothing serious. but then again i was messing around with my intake filter last night at work i hope thats the problem.
Re: Loud rattle at idle!
If you have noticed a loss in gas milage and you are driving the same and your car is routinely maintinanced, then a valve might need adjusted because the valve is too loose and not seating properly and can cause a rattle noise due to a loose rocker arm. This would cause the face of the valve to not seat properly causing a rich mixture.
*watches temp gauge like a hawkboss* :D
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Re: Loud rattle at idle!
If you have noticed a loss in gas milage and you are driving the same and your car is routinely maintinanced, then a valve might need adjusted because the valve is too loose and not seating properly and can cause a rattle noise due to a loose rocker arm. This would cause the face of the valve to not seat properly causing a rich mixture.
Well... for FYI, D17 valve clearances tend to get tight, not loose, over time (provided they're adjusted correctly at time of service)... sounds from the thread more like the problem is a bad engine mount, not a valve rocker.
Also... when a screw-and-locknut clearance is too large, it has nothing to do with how the valve seats. The valve guide and valve spring control valve seating, not the valve clearance.
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