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Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it ForumIf you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a Check Engine Light that won't go away, ask about it here!
I have a 03 civic lx 1.7 automatic d17a1 with 212,000 miles. Never missed any scheduled maintenance or oil changes in its life.
The radiator and condensor was bad from a minor front end accident. I found out after I took ownership because I ran it for about five mins and notice the needle spike. I shut it down. Filled the fluid up, drove it 20 miles and parked it. The needle was no where near hot.
So I go to start the car today and it struggled to start and then I got a rattle, tick or knock noise. I’ll try to get a video of it soon. I shut the car down. Then for like 30 mins I couldn’t get it to turn over. I got fuel. I swapped plugs again. If I hit the gas I could head the car getting close to turning over but then it still wouldn’t turn over. I did have to drench cylinder 3 to break loose the plug.
Anyways after repeated attempt the car did seem to stop hesitating about 50% and start but it’s still not a “clean start” but now I have this noise like a rod is bent or a rocker is tapping. I can’t figure it out. I mean I guess it could happen but what are the changes the car is perfectly fine parked and then a rod just gets bent on start up?
i did read some forum and YouTube video where some people had an issue with there ac compressor clutch that sounded similar. But my compressor and clutch is brand new.
Work that was done in the lst 14 days as the car has sat in the garage and not moved.
Struts
pads/rotors
tie rods, stab links, ball joints and control arms
radiator, condensor, compressor, thermostat, o rings
plugs
synthetic oil change
New key cut
new coolant added. Fuel addictive addicted to gas tank. Throttle body cleaner sprayed in throttle body.
First thought, head warp from overheating, fill coolant up and floods piston and then you crank and it’s hydro locked and then bends rod. That’s how a engine can run fine and then crack when you try to run it again after filling up the coolant.
Which makes sense. But why days later on a warm startup? the engine didn't actually overheat. i instantly saw the needle go to hot and shut the car down. filled the fluid and drove it with no heat issue and no knock for 20-30 miles. Started it up and moved it at least 4 times after and no heat issue on the needle and no knock. So wouldn't the rod had bent during this time?
the coolant was drained again after when the radiator was replaced. But the knock noise was instant when the engine started. So the thermostat wouldn't have even opened yet.
Your expanded scenario tends to sway me to the next guess.. previous owner “solved” the rod knock by using some crazy heavy oil and when you changed it out for the correct weight you brought it back
So another update. So during this process I had put some pregaped plugs in. And the engine was knocking. No codes thrown. I then put in the original plugs in and same noise. Yday I took the old plugs back out and put the new ones in and the noise disappeared. I also unplugged the coil on each cylinder while running one at a time to see if the noise disappeared. I inspected the old plugs I pulled and notice the 3rd cylinder plug had looked like it wa hit and closed the gap almost to it touching. This was also a plug I had to let soak in on blaster and put a nice ammt or force to brake it loose to get it out. Now the sound is gone. Still no code thrown. Engine starts perfectly fine with either plugs in now as well
so after replacing the spark plugs i had a misfire in cylinder 3. i pulled the plug and no gap again. i replaced the plug and problem happened again. i have now noticed the knocking noise is coming right after the plug gap closes. i noticed the ignition coil doesn't seem to have the same resistance when i pull it off the plug like the other 4. so i put in another plug and then i swapped the ignition coil from cylinder 4 and 3 and the plug closed on cylinder 4 and not 3.
So i dont know if maybe the ignition coil is not working and the spark plug gap is closing from detonation? this whole process the car runs and i rev it a few times for maybe 5 min. I dont even put the car in drive.
my buddy who is a mechanic seems to think it his a hydrolock when i described everything to him. I pulled plug 3 and started the engine to see if liquid would come out and it doesnt. i also looked in and i cant see any foreign materials. he did mention maybe a rod or wrist pin.
the oil looks clean, clear and full. i even added some additives. Coolant looks perfect as well.
is it possible something could be in the cylinder and go from 3 to 4?
i forgot to mention the knock noise is 100% gone when plugs are replaced. also i dont see any sign of obvious contact. as in i cant see any mark to show if the plug has been physically hit by anything
From something I saw on another forum it could be carbon build up on the valves coming in contact with the piston breaking it loose. Then the chunk of carbon buildup floating around in the cylinder bends the spark plug. I don't know if this is far fetched as I've never experienced it.
Definately not unexpected to hear piston slap on a dead cyclinder clear up when it firing again.
You swapped ignition coils and the problem followed so replace that one coil.
consider getting a more oem spark plug, that center core is sooo fat..
Possible eBay plugs from China mixed with misfiring coil is overheating plug and causing themal movement of the gap.
i agree i am going to try to change coil and see what happens. the 2nd picture are ngk plugs that was in before i owned. the higher picture are bosch double iridium plugs. all parts installed on car are from local part store. those plugs were like $11/each
