Rep Power: 184

Yes, I know you told me to unplug the 4-pin connector, and I started to, but I chickened out, mostly because it looked somewhat difficult (small spaces!).

You are probably really wondering what makes me tick. I have a club you can join if you like...

The BIGGEST reason I chose a BMW airhead motorcycle back in 1980, was because everything was out in the open and easy to work on. Even pulling the gearbox was within my reach. (But I would NEVER assume to have the talent to open one up and hope to get it back together again).

I am also lousy at confrontation, and I have never hired a lawyer in my life. I would love to get back some of that $360. We will have to wait and see.

 
Rep Power: 184

Oh, and it would drop below 14 volts at two different times.

When the belt was slipping,
but also when it seemed to not be requiring much electrical power, or was I just seeing a slacking of the belt with no noise?

I am REALLY unsure about the second one. SHOULD the alternator be putting 14 volts to the battery anytime the engine is running?

Thank you.

 
Rep Power: 518

No.
Sometimes you'll see full 14+ volts, other times you'll see 12.x volts while driving.
If you turn the headlights on that usually keeps the system charging running at full voltage.

Hondas ELD controlled charging system has been in use since at least the 80s and is used mostly for a boost in fuel economy but has an added benefit of reducing overcharging of the battery.

The ECM (or PCM) takes into account things like electrical load (via the ELD unit), engine load and driving conditions, and battery state of charge to vary the charging system output while you drive.

This is one reason why some people (mechanics too) think our alternators are bad when they are really doing just what they are supposed to be doing.

 
Rep Power: 184

Thanks for taking the time, ezone, especially while you are on the clock.

I picked my car up today from Honda service.
I saw a solid 14v from there, half-way to work (interstate, 60 MPH) when it dropped to 12v. I was running A/C, headlights and the CD player.
I guess this is normal, but I panicked and shut everything off and opened the windows.

And a Honda installed OEM would be $750.
Plus, I no longer have an OEM core.

I'm going to fill out a credit app and see how desperate they are to move a USED car.

I looked under the hood of that 2016 yesterday. The alternator is right on top! And it has a 6-point **** on it, just for tightening the belt! Of course, that alternator will not give anyone trouble for 15 years....

 
Rep Power: 518

It was probably normal.
If the alternator had quit completely with that much electric load your voltage would have dipped into low 11s or less pretty quickly.
So...did they only tighten the belt? Did they replace the alternator? Is the charge warning light still on?

Inquiring minds, and all that
Honda uses spring loaded belt tensioners on everything now.

Did you drive one with the 1.5 turbo?

 
Rep Power: 184

Honda service replaced one of the two fasteners on the alternator. The mechanic was at lunch when I picked it up, so I did not get to find out which it was.

They tightened the belt. They did not replace the alternator. Yes, the charge warning light is still on. They said that until I get a good alternator/voltage regulator in there, it will stay on due to low output.


No, it wasn't a turbo.

I am car shopping, sort of (bankruptcy last year...). I am also going to need a new catalytic convertor, although this is Indiana, the land of NO private vehicle inspections... Honda quoted me $1235. I called Meineke: $279-329.
Like I said, car shopping.

I did the damage to the cat the first time I ran the battery down. I drove it in limp mode on the interstate in an attempt to get home.

 
Rep Power: 518

It's not necessarily low output, it's simply an incorrect or faulty voltage regulator in that it probably can't correctly open the "L" circuit to the PCM so the idiot light turns off. A relatively common issue with aftermarket units.
(Again, this is where you unplug the 4 wire connector on the alternator to confirm)

Does it have a cat code P0420 also? (I didn't go back through the thread to see)

 
Rep Power: 184

Yes, looking at my Honda invoice, they say (DTC P0420).

Tomorrow, in the daylight, in my driveway, I will pull that connector, for sure.

I am hoping the clown that installed it will have a loaner car for me while he makes this right. I called twice this afternoon, went to voicemail both times. Sick? Vacation? I will stop in tomorrow, also.

I am going to print out your post (#37) and take that with me.

 
Rep Power: 184

Well, I still have my "core", as the 1st mechanic had it rebuilt at a shop where he worked for 25 years. They rewound the stator and rotor. And installed the "latest" of voltage regulators available.

Since it never held tension for them (two tries), I will assume something went wrong with one of the original fasteners. I would not be surprised if mechanic #2 replaced this with something aftermarket, which is why it held for 8 days.

Why a fastener has to be OEM to work, I don't know, unless it is a specific shape, with a shoulder or something that is critical.
But everyone is telling me that this fastener is NLA! I find that to be a bit bizarre, but even my service rep confirmed it.

I was told that the Honda tech that worked on my car happened to have on in his possession, and he use it. No charge.

I wanted to come here armed with a little more info about the fastener, but I cannot find it on the fiche. I found the alternator, but nothing on the mounting. I am not familiar enough with Honda's fiche, yet.

 
Rep Power: 518

Check the section called 'engine mounting bracket'

They drew it in odd locations but it is what it is

 
Rep Power: 184

Thanks, e!

 
Rep Power: 184

Can you help me identify the top bolt? I'm looking for the NLA part.

I am fairly certain #13 is the bolt on the slider bracket.

And, say, what of #8, the Alternator Adjuster Stay? No doubt, my Honda tech made sure it was in place.

Hope this link works
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...g-bracket.html

 
Rep Power: 518

In the diagram above, #29? (10x98 mm)

Various catalog sources may not give the same item number.
I ran some of the numbers in my catalog but none said obsolete. I didn't attempt to actually place an order to find out further. Maybe the dealer meant it wasn't available through their usual warehouse and would take longer than overnight to get it?

 
Rep Power: 184

Thank you, Valuable Resource!