swapping out D17A2 to JDM D17 with Tranny
04-28-2016
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swapping out D17A2 to JDM D17 with Tranny
2003 Civic EX with original D17A2 engine and tranny has 220,000 miles. Tranny seems ok but having head issues. Curious if anyone did a swap JDM D17 + Tranny and if all went well. I am not trying to do this for power gain. I am doing this for a reliability gain for low budget.
Engine
I plan to try to swap in all my original harnesses, intake and sensors if possible. Trying to keep as much original parts off old engine as possible. and changing out wear items now. Any help on this or what to look for please share.
timing set water pump
may even do head gasket etc
Tranny
-ANY issues with tranny and connectabilty. I am NOT sure what to expect here. Orignal tranny vs the JDM one. PLESAE SHARE ANY insite on what to look for or change out.
Engine
I plan to try to swap in all my original harnesses, intake and sensors if possible. Trying to keep as much original parts off old engine as possible. and changing out wear items now. Any help on this or what to look for please share.
timing set water pump
may even do head gasket etc
Tranny
-ANY issues with tranny and connectabilty. I am NOT sure what to expect here. Orignal tranny vs the JDM one. PLESAE SHARE ANY insite on what to look for or change out.
04-28-2016
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: swapping out D17A2 to JDM D17 with Tranny
You'll have to change the VTEC valve over or swap its pressure switch over. One or the other. The D17 doesn't have a pressure switch on the VTEC valve but there is a cap where it goes.
IDK about anything else being different enough to worry about, but all I know came from reading on the forums.
Why not just fix the head gasket in the engine you already have? Wait, nevermind.
Do the service work on the new one before it goes into the car. It's a lot easier to change the head gasket while it's on the ground LOL
IDK about anything else being different enough to worry about, but all I know came from reading on the forums.
Why not just fix the head gasket in the engine you already have? Wait, nevermind.
Do the service work on the new one before it goes into the car. It's a lot easier to change the head gasket while it's on the ground LOL
05-12-2016
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thanks EZONE. I just ordered the engine and tranny today. I confirmed exhaust gases in radiator. Used a block combustion tester and sure enough took a little bit it turned yellow plus after a while running I can see and smell the exhaust gas coming out of the radiator.
What is the true root cause of head gasket failures on the D17A2 engines. Is there something else that gets it to over heat and warp the head or what ? I am just wondering if I perform a leak down on the JDM engine and it passes with flying colors why change the head gasket ? I just do not want to fix that if not broke depending on what brakes it. Are the gaskets bad to begin with ? heads bad thermal cycling and warp ? What have others done with JDM engines ?
What is the true root cause of head gasket failures on the D17A2 engines. Is there something else that gets it to over heat and warp the head or what ? I am just wondering if I perform a leak down on the JDM engine and it passes with flying colors why change the head gasket ? I just do not want to fix that if not broke depending on what brakes it. Are the gaskets bad to begin with ? heads bad thermal cycling and warp ? What have others done with JDM engines ?
05-12-2016
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: swapping out D17A2 to JDM D17 with Tranny
What is the true root cause of head gasket failures on the D17A2 engines.
Very well known problem.
Other engines have the problem too, like the 6th gen Civics but they tend go a lot more miles before failure.
Root cause?
While most people can understand that anything that causes an overheat can ruin a head gasket and more, that's not the usual case with these. These breach the gasket first, then the overheat happens.
IMO it's weak areas in the design ....... toss up between the head gasket and the non-TTY head bolts.
My understanding is the head gasket available through Honda has been improved from the original design. Not the head bolts though.
If someone could source TTY head bolts for this application I believe it might make for a more robust package.
---
Most people don't notice the small warning signs in time to keep them from overheating, or don't bother to do anything about the warning signs and keep driving until it quits.
Warping the head only occurs AFTER it's been severely overheated.
If caught early enough, it's a straightforward job. I have done plenty of these jobs that have perfectly straight undamaged heads. Replace the head gasket and go.
05-12-2016
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: swapping out D17A2 to JDM D17 with Tranny
Make sure the trans you get is the same as the one in the car. BMXA vs SLXA is a screwy swap to dick with
Reuse your primary O2 sensor-- if the new engine is newer it may have an AF sensor, your computer will not like it.
Check for EGR valve, if that doesn't match (equipped, or not) you'd have to do more swapping.
IDK what else to look for. Make the new look like the original LOL
Reuse your primary O2 sensor-- if the new engine is newer it may have an AF sensor, your computer will not like it.
Check for EGR valve, if that doesn't match (equipped, or not) you'd have to do more swapping.
IDK what else to look for. Make the new look like the original LOL
05-17-2016
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The JDM trans should come with the 4 click linkage. Mine didn't.
Using my 5 click (that would be 6 positions) linkage threw a code in drive (torque converter) and in low range threw the car into limp-home mode
The torque converter does engage, just not quite where the ECU thinks it should.
So I blocked the shifter from going into the low ranges and used the JDM trans anyway. It's been going a year like that, 100 miles a day taking my daughter to work.
I'd reuse the old trans. Flush, change fluid, clean the magnetic drain plug and use it. It's an 03 which is a little improved over the 01-02's. The ports are a little larger so sludge won't clog them so easily. Of course changing fluid at the proper intervals would have eliminated the problem. But who does that?
On the bright side your JDM trans will come with a new Denso starter which is probably worth what you paid for the whole trans.
Using my 5 click (that would be 6 positions) linkage threw a code in drive (torque converter) and in low range threw the car into limp-home mode
The torque converter does engage, just not quite where the ECU thinks it should.
So I blocked the shifter from going into the low ranges and used the JDM trans anyway. It's been going a year like that, 100 miles a day taking my daughter to work.
I'd reuse the old trans. Flush, change fluid, clean the magnetic drain plug and use it. It's an 03 which is a little improved over the 01-02's. The ports are a little larger so sludge won't clog them so easily. Of course changing fluid at the proper intervals would have eliminated the problem. But who does that?
On the bright side your JDM trans will come with a new Denso starter which is probably worth what you paid for the whole trans.
05-17-2016
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Here's some other issues you'll encounter. The wiring harness is difficult to unplug from the ECU and get thru the firewall. Removing the passenger's side air bag does not help.
Lay your old wiring harness over the new motor and change plugs one at a time making sure each one clicks.
The 4 on the top of the motor for the coil packs are difficult to click. Pressing on them with a screwdriver could break them so use a wooden dowel or something soft. But they have to click. It is really difficult to swap harnesses in the car. And you could miss one little click, making the car not run. Or even worse, you need to swap something off of the old motor because the new one came without it.
There will be 3 plugs without destinations when you install the new motor. The front & rear 02 sensor plugs, and one little one that hooks to the air breather.
Oh, you might want to keep your old breather because US made filters won't fit the JDM housing. Or you could just buy JDM air filters on line.
If your JDM motor comes with power steering, the hose from your car won't fit it. Reuse the old power steering pump. If it didn't come with power steering, you'll have to change the crank pulleys. It's not easy. A breaker bar, even with a pipe on the handle won't budge it. You have to put a wrench on it and hit it with a big hammer. Amazon sells a wrench for this purpose for $24. I think it's called a crank nut wrench.
To remove the A/C lines, remove the bolts from the front & rear motor mounts and rock the engine back to let your hand reach the top of the compressor. Seal off the lines. Rubber plugs if you have them, masking tape in a pinch.
The JDM compressor has 1 wire, your car has 3. Cut the wires off your old compressor, leaving a long tail to work with. The center wire is a larger gauge than the other two. It's the power wire to the compressor. Splice it to the JDM compressor. The other two are signal wires. Splice them together to satisfy the ECU.
The difference in the two is that the JDM compressor wires the loss-of-charge switch into the power wire right on the compressor. The US version wires it back to the ECU. So you'll still have a loss-of-charge switch.
New O rings are a good idea.
After reattaching the hoses to the new compressor (rock the engine back) purge the air out of the compressor with 134 refrigerant. 3-4 oz in the low side, a screwdriver in the high side port. Don't check for leaks yet. The shaft seal on the compressor is probably dry from sitting. Give it full charge. Add 134 to the low side till the loss-of-charge switch clicks and starts the compressor. Give it the full 18 oz. To speed up the process stick the bottle in a pail of hot water. Do not turn the bottle up-side down!
You'll need to swap carburetors to get the dual cable assembly so your cruise control will hook up. 4-10mm bolts. Clean the surface and check the serpentine O ring.
While you're there, look at the back of the plastic intake manifold. Is the little plastic hose port broken off? If it is a metal tube & JB Weld can fix it. Intake manifolds are a bear to change.
Lay your old wiring harness over the new motor and change plugs one at a time making sure each one clicks.
The 4 on the top of the motor for the coil packs are difficult to click. Pressing on them with a screwdriver could break them so use a wooden dowel or something soft. But they have to click. It is really difficult to swap harnesses in the car. And you could miss one little click, making the car not run. Or even worse, you need to swap something off of the old motor because the new one came without it.
There will be 3 plugs without destinations when you install the new motor. The front & rear 02 sensor plugs, and one little one that hooks to the air breather.
Oh, you might want to keep your old breather because US made filters won't fit the JDM housing. Or you could just buy JDM air filters on line.
If your JDM motor comes with power steering, the hose from your car won't fit it. Reuse the old power steering pump. If it didn't come with power steering, you'll have to change the crank pulleys. It's not easy. A breaker bar, even with a pipe on the handle won't budge it. You have to put a wrench on it and hit it with a big hammer. Amazon sells a wrench for this purpose for $24. I think it's called a crank nut wrench.
To remove the A/C lines, remove the bolts from the front & rear motor mounts and rock the engine back to let your hand reach the top of the compressor. Seal off the lines. Rubber plugs if you have them, masking tape in a pinch.
The JDM compressor has 1 wire, your car has 3. Cut the wires off your old compressor, leaving a long tail to work with. The center wire is a larger gauge than the other two. It's the power wire to the compressor. Splice it to the JDM compressor. The other two are signal wires. Splice them together to satisfy the ECU.
The difference in the two is that the JDM compressor wires the loss-of-charge switch into the power wire right on the compressor. The US version wires it back to the ECU. So you'll still have a loss-of-charge switch.
New O rings are a good idea.
After reattaching the hoses to the new compressor (rock the engine back) purge the air out of the compressor with 134 refrigerant. 3-4 oz in the low side, a screwdriver in the high side port. Don't check for leaks yet. The shaft seal on the compressor is probably dry from sitting. Give it full charge. Add 134 to the low side till the loss-of-charge switch clicks and starts the compressor. Give it the full 18 oz. To speed up the process stick the bottle in a pail of hot water. Do not turn the bottle up-side down!
You'll need to swap carburetors to get the dual cable assembly so your cruise control will hook up. 4-10mm bolts. Clean the surface and check the serpentine O ring.
While you're there, look at the back of the plastic intake manifold. Is the little plastic hose port broken off? If it is a metal tube & JB Weld can fix it. Intake manifolds are a bear to change.
05-20-2016
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Verified with JDM tranny on he engine is a 5 click. They seemed to be aware of the possible issue 4 vs 5 click, but per your post you still had issues. DID you swap all sensors over from BMXA to SLXA ? they told me to make sure I swap ALL my sensors and solenoids over off the BMXA to the JDM SLXA
I plan on keeping all my parts and sensors from old engine including ECU. I hope to swap all over to JDM. Using basically the JDM long block intake. I hope to dicounnted the AC and PS pump from block keeping all lines in tack if possible. I plan to keep the JDM intake but putting on my throttle body with cruise elements and air flter if possible. Plan on using my original ECU that is in the car. Not sure if Exhaust manfold will work or not on JDM engine.
I thought since I am going D17A2 to JDM D17 this would be a simpler swap.
I plan on keeping all my parts and sensors from old engine including ECU. I hope to swap all over to JDM. Using basically the JDM long block intake. I hope to dicounnted the AC and PS pump from block keeping all lines in tack if possible. I plan to keep the JDM intake but putting on my throttle body with cruise elements and air flter if possible. Plan on using my original ECU that is in the car. Not sure if Exhaust manfold will work or not on JDM engine.
I thought since I am going D17A2 to JDM D17 this would be a simpler swap.
05-20-2016
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I've heard of changing the trans position sensor to get the 4 click trans to work. That & reprogramming the ECU. But the linear solenoids too?
If I got a 5 click trans I'd sure try it before swapping anything. At the most I'd think you may have to swap the trans position sensor. It's easily accessible with the trans in the car. Just remove the passenger side front tire and the little plastic wheel shroud held in with two plastic buttons. There it is right on the end of the trans. A little black steel cover over it and a couple of 10mm bolts. Watch the You Tube video on how to calibrate it. Which amounts to checking what gear it's in and lining up a slot. I don't remember exactly but it's easy.
The exhaust manifolds on all the v-tech motors are the same. With the catalytic converter under the car instead in the exhaust manifold like the LX & DX.
It is a simple swap. With a little variation on hooking things up. Starter & alternator are exactly the same. With the A/C splice 3 wires. Just remember to do it before installing the motor. Power steering won't swap without splicing the pressure hoses. So I don't do it. You may have to swap crank pulleys. Do that before installation too.
The only other thing you may encounter is that I've heard of JDM engines without a crank position sensor. It's located in the end valve shaft cover. It has a rubber grommet in the cover and a little pick up sensor under it held in with a 10mm bolt.
I think you'll have no problems IF you get a 5 click trans. And that's 5 "clicks" not 5 positions.
I'd think a bigger issue would be what else on the car needs replaced. Do the CV shafts droop like limp spaghetti when you pick them up? Do the tie rod ends wobble? Are the lower control arm bushings dried, cracked or even broken? Probably, it's a 200,000 mile car. Does the car squat over it's old tired struts to where there is no clearance between the tire and the top of the wheel well? Probably.
These are all things that'll make you think "Dang, I just had this car all apart". It would have been easy to swap parts then!
The problems with these old parts will be magnified when you add the healthy power of a new engine.
When you get it the old motor pulled out, is the time to go to Amazon or RockAuto.com and get the new parts on their way. And it's the little stuff that's easy to overlook. Like the exhaust manifold donut & bolts, brake parts, even the oil filter is cheaper online.
If I got a 5 click trans I'd sure try it before swapping anything. At the most I'd think you may have to swap the trans position sensor. It's easily accessible with the trans in the car. Just remove the passenger side front tire and the little plastic wheel shroud held in with two plastic buttons. There it is right on the end of the trans. A little black steel cover over it and a couple of 10mm bolts. Watch the You Tube video on how to calibrate it. Which amounts to checking what gear it's in and lining up a slot. I don't remember exactly but it's easy.
The exhaust manifolds on all the v-tech motors are the same. With the catalytic converter under the car instead in the exhaust manifold like the LX & DX.
It is a simple swap. With a little variation on hooking things up. Starter & alternator are exactly the same. With the A/C splice 3 wires. Just remember to do it before installing the motor. Power steering won't swap without splicing the pressure hoses. So I don't do it. You may have to swap crank pulleys. Do that before installation too.
The only other thing you may encounter is that I've heard of JDM engines without a crank position sensor. It's located in the end valve shaft cover. It has a rubber grommet in the cover and a little pick up sensor under it held in with a 10mm bolt.
I think you'll have no problems IF you get a 5 click trans. And that's 5 "clicks" not 5 positions.
I'd think a bigger issue would be what else on the car needs replaced. Do the CV shafts droop like limp spaghetti when you pick them up? Do the tie rod ends wobble? Are the lower control arm bushings dried, cracked or even broken? Probably, it's a 200,000 mile car. Does the car squat over it's old tired struts to where there is no clearance between the tire and the top of the wheel well? Probably.
These are all things that'll make you think "Dang, I just had this car all apart". It would have been easy to swap parts then!
The problems with these old parts will be magnified when you add the healthy power of a new engine.
When you get it the old motor pulled out, is the time to go to Amazon or RockAuto.com and get the new parts on their way. And it's the little stuff that's easy to overlook. Like the exhaust manifold donut & bolts, brake parts, even the oil filter is cheaper online.
06-03-2016
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Got the JDM D17 engine and tranny in garage getting ready to pull the old one out. Did a leak down and it was 97% on all 4 at 100PSI. Changed H2O pump, timing belt and tensioner. The JDM engine looks new like it was hardly ever driven. Took the valve cover off set the rockers the exhaust set to .09 to .010" the Intakes were all right at .08" and it was super clean in there.
On our 2003 Civic EX we disconnected the wires form ECU and pulled them out or firewall and disconnected all parts hose to the body. drained all fluids and hope to pull tonight and start swapping parts to the JDM engine and tranny.
On our 2003 Civic EX we disconnected the wires form ECU and pulled them out or firewall and disconnected all parts hose to the body. drained all fluids and hope to pull tonight and start swapping parts to the JDM engine and tranny.
06-04-2016
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Well? you didn't say whether it's a 4 click or 5 click trans.
Does the tag say SLXA? If it does you may be in for a little grief. My daughter is still driving her cobbled up SLXA. I've just been informed that the cruise control won't pull her up a hill. On flat ground it's OK, but it won't downshift.
Does the tag say SLXA? If it does you may be in for a little grief. My daughter is still driving her cobbled up SLXA. I've just been informed that the cruise control won't pull her up a hill. On flat ground it's OK, but it won't downshift.
06-04-2016
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JDM trans does say SLXA 
on it and the JDM importer verified 5 click, 6 position prior to shipping out (they were aware of the issues). I checked it with my son but did not verify it against the original to make 100% sure that it is the same. I will check again to verify and compare against the old trans tonight. We got the engine out last night and will start swapping parts over today. I ordered 3 new motor mounts and on the fence to swapping oil pans. Will be sapping TB with cruise over. Left the AC and PS in car. Stay tuned
on it and the JDM importer verified 5 click, 6 position prior to shipping out (they were aware of the issues). I checked it with my son but did not verify it against the original to make 100% sure that it is the same. I will check again to verify and compare against the old trans tonight. We got the engine out last night and will start swapping parts over today. I ordered 3 new motor mounts and on the fence to swapping oil pans. Will be sapping TB with cruise over. Left the AC and PS in car. Stay tuned
06-04-2016
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Swapping oil pans can be a problem too. The last JDM motor came with a steel pan. We discussed swapping the aluminum pan off of the old motor. Figured we would probably be the only ones to see it so we left the steel pan. Plus we had the support yoke that runs from the trans to the engine for a steel pan.
I had the motor & trans back in the car, even had the exhaust reinstalled. One of the final things was to put the two little covers back over the shift linkage. The ones I had wouldn't fit with the yoke in place. I had to modify them. Shaving a little bit off then dry fitting them. It must have taken me 10 trips under the car to get them to fit right. It would have been easier to change the pans! Plus I have the two little aluminum brackets that go with the aluminum pan. I'm going to keep the aluminum pan & brackets.
I don't know if you're aware but steel pans require a gasket, aluminum pans use silicon sealant.
We had a problem going from a steel pan to aluminum. We thought we'd cleaned off all the old gasket, but a couple of the little metal shims had pulled out of the gasket and were stuck on the studs on the motor. They're tiny! It took a while to find that problem. It left just enough gap that it always leaked. Luckily it was on my nephew's car not one we'd sold.
I had the motor & trans back in the car, even had the exhaust reinstalled. One of the final things was to put the two little covers back over the shift linkage. The ones I had wouldn't fit with the yoke in place. I had to modify them. Shaving a little bit off then dry fitting them. It must have taken me 10 trips under the car to get them to fit right. It would have been easier to change the pans! Plus I have the two little aluminum brackets that go with the aluminum pan. I'm going to keep the aluminum pan & brackets.
I don't know if you're aware but steel pans require a gasket, aluminum pans use silicon sealant.
We had a problem going from a steel pan to aluminum. We thought we'd cleaned off all the old gasket, but a couple of the little metal shims had pulled out of the gasket and were stuck on the studs on the motor. They're tiny! It took a while to find that problem. It left just enough gap that it always leaked. Luckily it was on my nephew's car not one we'd sold.
06-04-2016
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So you suggest to swap to the aluminum OLD pan but make 100% sure we clean it well. What Sealant ? Any good silicon sealer recommend ? I have Yahmabond 4 and Permatex gasket maker black or grey. I have had real good luck with Permatex black in place of a gasket altogether (NO gasket) and use Yahmabond 4 on snowmobile chainsaw cases great for machined surface sealing. Any concerns or issues of the oil pump sump being positioned correctly.
ALso looking all over for the "The only other thing you may encounter is that I've heard of JDM engines without a crank position sensor. It's located in the end valve shaft cover. It has a rubber grommet in the cover and a little pick up sensor under it held in with a 10mm bolt."
I thought this sensor was under the timing belt covers ?? have one by the crank timing area and there is a cam sensor.
where is this exactly ??
ALso looking all over for the "The only other thing you may encounter is that I've heard of JDM engines without a crank position sensor. It's located in the end valve shaft cover. It has a rubber grommet in the cover and a little pick up sensor under it held in with a 10mm bolt."
I thought this sensor was under the timing belt covers ?? have one by the crank timing area and there is a cam sensor.
where is this exactly ??
Last edited by Jade03CivicEX; 06-04-2016 at 11:36 PM.
06-05-2016
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Yup, Timing belt cover. I got the terminology wrong. Maybe you can tell I'm a novice mechanic. (My nephew has other words about my competence)
The JDM engines seem to be coming with crank sensors. But without A/C compressors. The importer says they're all removed and sold in Dubai where they get a better price.
My importer says they all come V-Tech too. (Maybe it's just him). Of course yours won't engage V-Tech with the ECU you have. No big deal.
Permatex ought to be great. Being heat & oil resistant.
The oil sump is the same on either pan. We checked it out.
The JDM engines seem to be coming with crank sensors. But without A/C compressors. The importer says they're all removed and sold in Dubai where they get a better price.
My importer says they all come V-Tech too. (Maybe it's just him). Of course yours won't engage V-Tech with the ECU you have. No big deal.
Permatex ought to be great. Being heat & oil resistant.
The oil sump is the same on either pan. We checked it out.
06-05-2016
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The car this is going in is VTEC. 2003 Civic EX D17A2. Why won't VTEC work with my ECU ? I am taking a VTEC 1.7L D17A2 out and putting in a D17 JDM VTEC. Our JDM is as you described it has crank sensor and no AC compressor.
I am changing over the VTEC solenoid sensor. Putting old one with extra pressure switch on the JDM motor. What has me most concerned is the SLXA trans. We are taking ever sensor off he BMXA and putting on SLXA hoping to eliminate issues. They both have 5 clicks and appear the same, but read many threads with issues but there seems to be no resolution.
I am changing over the VTEC solenoid sensor. Putting old one with extra pressure switch on the JDM motor. What has me most concerned is the SLXA trans. We are taking ever sensor off he BMXA and putting on SLXA hoping to eliminate issues. They both have 5 clicks and appear the same, but read many threads with issues but there seems to be no resolution.
06-05-2016
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Re: swapping out D17A2 to JDM D17 with Tranny
We thought we'd cleaned off all the old gasket, but a couple of the little metal shims had pulled out of the gasket and were stuck on the studs on the motor. They're tiny! It took a while to find that problem. It left just enough gap that it always leaked.
06-05-2016
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I have done 2 of these swaps using the SLXA transmission and they both run perfectly. One is actually my daily driver I have since put 20,000 miles on. You do not have to change out anything on these JDM D17a's except the driver side motor mount bracket on some of the motors if it is different looking than the old one. Dont swap out the intake manifold or anything on the motor its all the same!! The only thing you have to swap is the VTEC solenoid and the throttle body if you want to keep cruise control. Just take a look at it for yourself. Just use your old wiring harness it pulls right thru the firewall pretty easily. Thats it dont use anything else off the old motor theres no reason to. The SLXA transmission will work fine it only has P R N D D3 no D2 its not a big deal. you will have to readjust or use the old range sensor on the SLXA transmission. Thats it you do not have to switch out all the old solenoids etc on the transmission either. Let me know if you have any questions I am very familiar with these 01-05 civics.
06-06-2016
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The car this is going in is VTEC. 2003 Civic EX D17A2. Why won't VTEC work with my ECU ? I am taking a VTEC 1.7L D17A2 out and putting in a D17 JDM VTEC. Our JDM is as you described it has crank sensor and no AC compressor.
I am changing over the VTEC solenoid sensor. Putting old one with extra pressure switch on the JDM motor. What has me most concerned is the SLXA trans. We are taking ever sensor off he BMXA and putting on SLXA hoping to eliminate issues. They both have 5 clicks and appear the same, but read many threads with issues but there seems to be no resolution.
I am changing over the VTEC solenoid sensor. Putting old one with extra pressure switch on the JDM motor. What has me most concerned is the SLXA trans. We are taking ever sensor off he BMXA and putting on SLXA hoping to eliminate issues. They both have 5 clicks and appear the same, but read many threads with issues but there seems to be no resolution.
If you have a 5 click SLXA it's news to me. I didn't think they existed. I thought SLXA means 3 speed & BMXA means 4 speeds. Wrong again!
I kind of wish you hadn't swapped all those sensors yet. I think that if you have a 5 click it would have been a direct swap. You're probably writing the definitive thread on JDM trans swaps.
I was hoping it would be like:
(A) Get a 5 click SLXA trans
(B) Do a direct swap
I think it would have worked.
06-06-2016
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Thanks Shawn for your post. This is the conversation I was hoping would get started. I'd also like to say I admire your shop! It makes my garage look grim and dim.
Thanks for your video too. It's pretty much what we went thru with our 4 click SLXA. Adjusting the range sensor for the best outcome. Glad to hear it's lasting. My daughter depends on her LX with the SLXA trans.
You must have gotten yours adjusted better than we did. Ours throws the P0740 code, but also if you use low range it throws it into limp home mode. I had to cut a block of plastic to put in the linkage to keep the car out of low range. I even put a silver sticker over the low range positions in the console so it looks blank. It just has forward & reverse, like a city bus.
It works OK, but with cruise control on a hill it won't downshift, it just bogs the motor down. But it's pretty flat here in SW Ohio.
I got kind of tired of the CEL always being on. I couldn't cut the wires, and it's hard to pull the bulb. So I cracked open the instrument case, and with a pair of tweezers slipped a piece of black electrical tape over the bulb.
I figured what's the difference from being always on to being always off?
If I were a dealer or mechanic I'd probably be facing criminal charges.
06-06-2016
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Thanks man I got 4 of those lights up at home depot they are awesome. Throwing the P0740 code with the SLXA transmission is normal. Both of mine do the same thing. You could probably adjust the range sensor a bit more to keep it from going into limp mode if it gets bumped into low gear. When you are saying it does not downshift when driving it sounds like to me it may be in D3 not D when your driving. If thats the case your range sensor is out of adjustment maybe. Thats funny on the check engine light but hey whatever works I may end up doing the same thing on mine haha.
06-06-2016
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Shawn huge thanks again. Sent you another long winded PM please forgive me : )
Got the JDM d17 and SLXA wired up with the wiring harness. I am thinking on just keeping the Steal pan you mentioned an issues doing this ?
the JDM has not barces that I notices on it like the original D17A2 has.
I kept the JDM VTEC and put our original pressure switch. NOT sure what else may be different
the JDM EGR valve plug right in to the harness. ARE the EGR valves different. I took it off to inspect and did not even notice a gasket on the JDM one ? Weird they appear to me the same valve but who knows.
the only issue I had was the JDM Honda starter mounting points were different and it was a stretch to connect it up.
Plan to use the JDM supplied starter and Alternator. They look and feel new compared our originals.
thanks again. Perhaps tonight finsh up the engine for install still on fence with oil pans.
I DID NOT CHANGE ANY SENSORS.
Got the JDM d17 and SLXA wired up with the wiring harness. I am thinking on just keeping the Steal pan you mentioned an issues doing this ?
the JDM has not barces that I notices on it like the original D17A2 has.
I kept the JDM VTEC and put our original pressure switch. NOT sure what else may be different
the JDM EGR valve plug right in to the harness. ARE the EGR valves different. I took it off to inspect and did not even notice a gasket on the JDM one ? Weird they appear to me the same valve but who knows.
the only issue I had was the JDM Honda starter mounting points were different and it was a stretch to connect it up.
Plan to use the JDM supplied starter and Alternator. They look and feel new compared our originals.
thanks again. Perhaps tonight finsh up the engine for install still on fence with oil pans.
I DID NOT CHANGE ANY SENSORS.
Last edited by Jade03CivicEX; 06-06-2016 at 11:01 PM.
06-06-2016
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Keep the black steel oil pan thats on the jdm engine those extra braces are not there from the factory in Japan so I wouldnt worry about it either I think its because of the steel oil pan from what I remember but its nothing to worry about at all. EGR valves are the same everything is pretty much the same. YOu can extend the starter signal wire by butt splicing a piece of the old JDM wiring harness starter wire to the US wiring harness to make it longer I done that on this last car. The alternator will be a stretch too on the wire with the 10mm nut holding it on but it will work! just will not be any slack in that wire haha. I sent a reply to your PM not sure if you got it or not.
06-11-2016
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So far so good I have say huge thank you to all and that this was a very painless, straight forward swap that anyone can do.
here is what I would tell someone doing this on a EX model:
1A. ON JDM change timing belt, H2O pump and retainer, adjust rockers, drain everything out. I did a leak down test and is was 97% at 100psi on all 4 cylinders which is pretty amazing. We did this with timing and valve covers off good time to adjust rockers too. All easy to line up nice and can do a good leak down. Giving it was so good at leakdown we elected NOT to do the head gasket. The timing belt and H2O pump looked BN. but changed them sine we were there anyways.
1. Make sure to disconnect the wiring harness from ECU (in glove box), pull wires from fire wall as well as take your Cruise control too. Take all wires harness with old engine. Note the Alternator wire and starter wire may be a little short during the transfer to JDM. I took off the plastic retainer on alternator. Did not hook up the wires on alternator till it was adjusted to the new belt.
2. Keep the VTEC on the JDM D17, remove plug and just put in the pressure switch from old VTEC.
3. Disconnect ABS connector It gets close when taking the old engine out.
4. Swap original harness and TB with cruise.
5. once in adjust trans position sensor. Make sure lights up solid.
6. I did not change any sensors on SXLA so far no issues. Did not adjust it yet so far no issues as long as we use the dash lights. ONLY use P R N and D.
All an all this was a very straight forward of a swap on an EX model. I would be willing to do this again and would even consider picking up a high mileage EX and do it again. The JDM D17 engine and SLXA trans were in super shape when we got it. Hope daughter will have a very dependable, reasonably priced that is good on gas for a few years. With valve cover off we were very impressed how clean it was in side. I will post more findings as we drive the car on longer trips.
here is what I would tell someone doing this on a EX model:
1A. ON JDM change timing belt, H2O pump and retainer, adjust rockers, drain everything out. I did a leak down test and is was 97% at 100psi on all 4 cylinders which is pretty amazing. We did this with timing and valve covers off good time to adjust rockers too. All easy to line up nice and can do a good leak down. Giving it was so good at leakdown we elected NOT to do the head gasket. The timing belt and H2O pump looked BN. but changed them sine we were there anyways.
1. Make sure to disconnect the wiring harness from ECU (in glove box), pull wires from fire wall as well as take your Cruise control too. Take all wires harness with old engine. Note the Alternator wire and starter wire may be a little short during the transfer to JDM. I took off the plastic retainer on alternator. Did not hook up the wires on alternator till it was adjusted to the new belt.
2. Keep the VTEC on the JDM D17, remove plug and just put in the pressure switch from old VTEC.
3. Disconnect ABS connector It gets close when taking the old engine out.
4. Swap original harness and TB with cruise.
5. once in adjust trans position sensor. Make sure lights up solid.
6. I did not change any sensors on SXLA so far no issues. Did not adjust it yet so far no issues as long as we use the dash lights. ONLY use P R N and D.
All an all this was a very straight forward of a swap on an EX model. I would be willing to do this again and would even consider picking up a high mileage EX and do it again. The JDM D17 engine and SLXA trans were in super shape when we got it. Hope daughter will have a very dependable, reasonably priced that is good on gas for a few years. With valve cover off we were very impressed how clean it was in side. I will post more findings as we drive the car on longer trips.
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