circtest

The end of last week driving home from work, my a/c worked fine. The next day it wouldn't do anything but blow air out of the vents. The clutch does not kick in and the condenser fan does not turn on. I've read other posts here as well as Google. It has been discussed, but I have seen no resolution to solve the problem. The a/c light does come on and have tried a diagnostic test from what I read. The a/c button blinks 6 times. Someone said in another post that is a sunlight sensor and I don't think my car has one of those. I have checked fuses and don't see anything wrong as well as tapping relays. Any help would be appreciated as I am not sure what to do next.

ezone

Try a HVAC self test, see if its control unit has any codes.

Self test:
Begin with the key OFF.

Turn the fan **** to OFF
Hold down the RECIRC and rear window defogger buttons
Turn the ignition switch to ON (do not start the engine)
Let go of the 2 buttons

Recirc and rear defog buttons light up,
recirc goes out in like 2 seconds then AC light comes on...
then shortly (maybe 10 seconds) the self test finishes and AC light goes out.

If there are codes the recirc light will now blink a code number, 1 or 2 digit code.
If no codes the recirc light stays off.



Interior fan DOES run, yes?
Pressure switch shows continuity (ohm meter test)?
Thermal protector circuit has continuity (ohm meter test)?
Any other odd electrical malfunctions like dome lights or key beeper not working right?

circtest

I will have to look at a wiring diagram as I don't know what's what. I got a repair manual but is about useless. I don't have an ohm meter and will see if I can get one. I'll get back with the HVAC self test

circtest

Blower fan works. Nothing else out of the ordinary. My lights flicker when it's cold out, but has been doing that over a year. Self check showed nothing

ezone

I'm not sure what the flashing AC light means, if anything.

Work on getting an answer on these for the moment:

Pressure switch shows continuity (ohm meter test)?
(should prove the system has enough pressure to begin operation if closed, and if open circuit it would stop compressor and condensor fans operation as there is low/no pressure in the system)

Thermal protector circuit has continuity (ohm meter test)?
If open, would stop compressor and condensor fans operation...
Compressor connector on the fan shroud has 3 red wires...Center wire runs the clutch, the 2 outer wires go to the thermal protector.

circtest

Ok, I'll get a multimeter and respond back in the morning.

circtest

I think I figured out my problem. Appears that the radiator got a hole smashed into it. Terrific

ezone

The AC part out in front of the radiator is the condensor.
Great...or not. At least you found something.


If it's got a hole in it, then the pressure switch would check as open circuit.....leading to pressure checking system, at which point you'd find it empty of freon.

circtest

Yay! More money I get to spend fixing it. :/ Thanks for the help though. I may be back as I plan on fixing this myself. At least what I can.

circtest

I'm back and was hoping to get my issue fixed a month ago, but had to deal with hail damage instead. I punctured my condenser and bought a new one, with all the other things I need. I read in another post, you should only put in as much refrigerant oil as came out. I don't know how much leaked out or how much is in the condenser. It does not look like much came out of the hole. My question(s) is/are...

How much oil should I put in the new condenser?
How much r134a is required to charge a 2003 Civic?
What should the readings be on the gauges?

I have some different web pages saved, but they pertain to different year model Civics. If someone can offer the information or point me to a page that will provide it, I would greatly appreciate it. My repair manual doesn't tell me Jack.

ezone

Pressure readings while operating will vary greatly depending on conditions, there is no single answer.


There should be a sticker somewhere in the engine compartment or on the hood stating the correct freon charge weight. About half the size of a business card.

System is charged by weight. According to my info it gets .500-.550 kg of R134a

---

There is a chart in the FSM that tells how much oil should be added for any given component replacement.

If you are ONLY replacing the condensor you need to add 5/6 oz to the system, you can pour the oil in while the system is open if you wish.

Plus whatever sprayed out when the system was punctured, that's a wild guess you'll have to make.


-------

If the system doesn't have enough oil, the compressor will slowly grind itself to death.
If the system has too much oil in it, the cooling performance can be diminished because oil takes up valuable space intended for freon.

circtest

Thanks, that's what I found with the oil. I'll have to see if I can find it again, but remember reading charging the system, was an '07 Civic I think, then running the engine at 2k RPM and the reading should be this. Make me feel better if I was sure for my year model car.