Rep Power: 0

Hello all! New member to the forums and first time posting, however, I am a long time reader of these forums. So I did a timing belt and water pump change on my 5 speed 2005 Honda Civic Reverb. I changed the auto-tensioner, spring, belt, and water pump. I am 100% certain that the timing belt is installed correctly and that the timing is not off. I have even triple checked the timing marks and made sure that all valves are closed when at TDC. When changing the water pump, because i didnt do a full coolant flush, a little bit of coolant spilled out onto the crank shaft sensor and pigtail connector. After reassembling everything, the car would not start and I used my code reader to pull the codes P0335 and P0336, both for the crankshaft sensor. So, I proceeded by buying a new CKP (crankshaft position) sensor. Before installing the new sensor, I used electrical contact cleaner to clean all electrical components that coolant was spilled on/into (including the crankshaft sensor pigtail connector). I installed the new sensor, but the car still would not start. The motor was definitely cranking but it just would not start, it even sounded like it was about to start at one point before choking completely. I decided to check my spark plugs, and noticed that my cylinders flooded with fuel from trying to start the car so many times with a dead crankshaft sensor. So, i proceeded by buying new NGK platinum plugs and letting the gas evaporate out of the cylinders (using a heater and a compressor). Now, with the new spark plugs, unflooded cylinders, and new crankshaft sensor, the car started! However, the car only started if the throttle was COMPLETELY floored (a fuel injector bypass). When it did indeed start, it spit out a different code this time, P0339, also for the crankshaft sensor but now an intermittent issue. Furthermore, I did a little more testing and tried to start the car with the camshaft sensor unplugged. This did not work. Then, i proceeded to plug the camshaft sensor back in, and this time unplug the crankshaft position sensor. BAM! the car started the best it has since the timing belt and water pump change (and this time it started without having to floor the accelerator). If I have a brand new crankshaft position sensor, what could the issue possibly be? IM STUMPED!!!! Ive been at this for 3 weeks now consistently searching both these forums and the 7thgen civic forums. Can someone give me some insight please?

 
Rep Power: 517

Guesses:
Liquid trapped in the CKP connector, possibly bridging connections
corrosion in the terminals or wiring in the CKP connector, causing poor connections
Female terminals in the connector have lost tension, causing poor connections

You may need to take the connector shell apart to get it all clean and dry.
If there is any greenish looking stuff in the terminals that's probably corrosion.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for the quick reply ezone! At my local parts store, I have the option of buying the pigtail connector with some wire. Do you think I should cut the old connector out and splice in a new one? Or simply just use electrical contact cleaner? Also, would it help if I took pictures of the actual connector itself? Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 221

try cleaning it before buying a new part, pictures are always helpful

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi Colin, I thoroughly cleaned both the pigtail connector and the old ckp sensor, and then tried to reassemble everything and start the car. I even let the sensor and the pigtail connector soak in electrical contact cleaner overnight. The cleaner is primarily composed of isopropanol, so it should've gotten all the trapped liquids out of there with an overnight soak. Still, the car would not start. This is why I went out and bought a new ckp sensor. I will post pictures in the next couple hours. Thanks for the help guys!!

 
Rep Power: 221

Cool, hopefully that sorts you out then. For the 20 cents of cleaner you use on the connector its worth trying to clean it if it saves you buying a new connector and having to splice it in.

 
Rep Power: 0

Could someone explain how to take the connector shell apart without destroying it? Its such a fragile looking plastic piece, could totally see myself breaking the plastic by trying to disassemble it haha

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey everyone! So after hours and hours of contemplating and diagnosing, I have finally found the issue! So, the previous timing belt had snapped because the tensioner broke and the spring detached as well. After installing the new tensioner properly, and torquing it to the right specs, the timing belt kept getting lose on one side! My question for you guys is, for this specific motor, is there a DOWEL PIN that is supposed to be attached to the block? Is the tensioner supposed to fit into the dowel pin? I thought it was just the spring, grenade pin, and center bolt?? CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CLARIFY FOR ME?

 
Rep Power: 517

The crank turns counter-clockwise

There is NO dowel pin for the tensioner pulley on a D17 engine. The pulley is semi-free floating once installed correctly and spring attached

Got a brand and part number you can post?

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for the reply ezone! Thanks for the clarification on the dowel pin! I literally took everything apart again today, and reinstalled the timing belt. The problem last time was that I did not install the auto tensioner in the right sequence. Hand tighten bolt first, attach the spring to the block, remove the grenade pin, then torque the bolt to 33 ft lbs. I was previously doing it all mixed up, removing the grenade pin first. I figure this is why the timing belt kept getting loose. NOW, I am 100% certain that the timing belt is installed correctly alongside the tensioner. I ran the engine with the timing covers off to make sure the timing belt held its tension and no teeth were jumped. The car now starts perfectly without having to floor the throttle, however now I'm getting codes P0335 and p0339 interchangeably when I clear the codes and start the engine again to see if the problem still persists. I don't have a test light or wire probe to test voltages and test for ground. However, I have a standard voltmeter. Remember, the crankshaft position sensor has already been swapped for a brand new one. Could it be a short in the pigtail connector for the crankshaft position connector that comes from the engine's wiring harness? I'd also like to note that I've done a very thorough job of cleaning the pigtail connector with electrical contact cleaner. There is zero signs of corrosion on the connector or any of the electrical components in and around it, there are no greenies! As a matter of fact, the pigtail connector still looks brand new... I'm so stumped... Spent my only day off of work of the week working on my car all day

 
Rep Power: 0

I will tomorrow when I call the parts store. I will post the part number ASAP!

 
Rep Power: 517

P0335 is CKP no signal
P0336 and P0339 is CKP intermittent interruption

If the sensor is installed correctly and the little nubs on the timing gear were not damaged in any way, I'd assume since you said antifreeze spilled you have a connection problem or a bleed problem with the terminals inside the CKP connector.
Google 'pin drag test'

Wait, did you use a factory sensor or aftermarket? Is the bolt tight and sensor gap correct? Gear not on backwards?

Voltmeter checks on the harness, 3 wires- you should find a ground, a 5v and 12v.

 
Rep Power: 0

The little nubs on the timing gear were certainly not damaged. The sensor I used is a Borg Warner crankshaft position sensor. The bolt for the sensor is definitely tight, and if you're referring to the gap between the Harmonic balancer and sensor, i did not know there was a specified gap. Gear is definitely not on backwards. Could you elaborate on the sensor gap? Also, so with a voltmeter, I don't need a wire probe or have to make any incisions to expose copper?

 
Rep Power: 221

no you'd be touching the pins on the connector with the probes on the multimeter

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for the help Colin! I'm not much of an electrical specialist at all so I'm going to need as much of your guy's help that I can get! I have found the diagnostics procedure for these specific codes. Here is the link, scroll down a few posts and you will see the procedure.

http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/arc...hp/t-8233.html

My question is, does anyone have a diagram of the specific terminals the person is talking about (for instance he mentions terminal 3 on a connector, and also terminal A7). Also, I can do all this testing with a standard multimeter on the pin connectors themselves without having to make any incisions right?

 
Rep Power: 221

Yeah you should be able to touch the connector pins with the multimeter leads. I would just check the 3 connector pins first like ezone said.

 
Rep Power: 517

There is no real spec for this, but it's a consideration. There is no spec because it is not adjustable.

Gap between sensor tip and the little nubs on the edge of the crankshaft timing belt gear.

No, and don't attempt to stuff your meter probes into the connector either, that can ruin the terminals. Use a straightened paper clip as your test probe tip, and only touch the terminals do not try to stuff the clip into the terminals.

Blue = 5v
Brown/yellow = ground
Yellow/black = 12v

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi, I have the same problem. My 04 civic lx 1.7l wont start after new timing belt and tensioner and 2 new crank pos sensors. Get P0339. what is the pulley with the nubs on it called ? My tensioner spring broke and damaged the cps and I was wondering if that sprocket got damaged also. the wiring in the cps cks ok.

 
Rep Power: 517

P0339 is "CKP sensor signal intermittent interruption"See if any of those nubs got broken off?

You didn't forget the shim that slides on before the gear, did you? Facing the correct direction? (if there's a difference)
Gear is not turned around backwards?


You could describe it by what it does (crankshaft timing gear, lower timing belt pulley, etc.), or look it up in a parts catalog and just get the part number then call a dealer to see if they have that part number in stock (nope but can probably get it overnight) or order from any of the many dealers who sell parts online at wholesale prices.

2001-05 1.7L engines
"Pulley, timing belt drive"
US Honda part# 13621-PLD-013

 
Rep Power: 0

UPDATE: I am sorry for this insanely late update, but hopefully this will help someone that is facing the same issue in the future. My problem turned out to be that 2 nubs on the crankshaft timing gear had broken off during the process of changing the crank seal. Once I went to the auto wrecker, purchased a used timing gear and installed it, the car started up like a charm! I know it seems strange that 2 broken little finger like protrusions on a timing gear would prevent the car from running. However, the crankshaft position sensor reads a magnetic pulse in correspondence with the position of each little nub on this timing gear. If nubs are broken, the crankshaft position sensor will not be able to give an accurate reading to the PCM. I hope this helps anyone in the future facing the same issue with their civic!

I would also like to note that there IS NOT a part number for the crankshaft position sensor pigtail connector. I was indeed misinformed by my parts guy. Sorry for any confusion.

 
Rep Power: 208

how the heck would that happen?

were you throwing it across the garage floor?

 
Rep Power: 517

Playing Frisbee with it? Maybe Ninja throwing stars?

 
Rep Power: 0

​​​​​​Hahahaha. That timing gear was a bit of a bitch to get off the first time. I remember having to use a pry bar with a lot of force. Probably clipped the nubs as I was prying

 
Rep Power: 208

huh?

that gear should slide off the crank easily using your bare hand

 
Rep Power: 517

In sunny southern California, maybe.


EDIT: Most do slide off easily, but not all of them.