Rep Power: 0

...so I get code 1457 one day, checked all lines & connections, checked all solenoids for operation, new gas cap, still get code 1457....when I had removed the evap can, I noticed it was wet w/ gas inside(looking in the one hose connection)...is that my problem?....also, when I had removed the 2 way valve to check it, got vacuum release from the 2 way to the fuel tank pressure regulator....anybody got ideas?...............thanks.........tj

 
Rep Power: 517

P1457 means there is leakage detected in the canister system.


Are you in the rust belt?

Here lately I've just been pulling the canister off the car and leak checking it manually if I think it's a problem.

I plug off the hoses and open ports, then pressurize it with 1 PSI MAX air pressure, then spray it down with soapy water and look for bubbles.


This is what I've been seeing a lot of lately:

 
Rep Power: 0

...hey, thanks....that's funny...kinda what my shut valve looks like(I am a rust belter, although I believe my civic is a southern vehicle, very clean underneath...)...I had removed the can and valves this past weekend to chk things out, tested valves w/ 12v's, etc.... have seen stuff about saturated cans causing this code, don't know if can should be wet(not dripping) w/ gas...interesting note though, code wouldn't show for about a week(maybe 200miles)...since this past weekend cel came on in a day(less than 50 miles)...do you think replacing shut valve might do it?........thanks in advance....tj

 
Rep Power: 517

Yeah, when the valves all pass the click test but the system keeps failing the leak tests, that's about the time I pressure test it manually. I've got a little box with all the right size hoses and plugs and a pressure regulator for the shop air hose to make it a pretty quick check.


A few drips from the lines are normal, but saturated is not. Saturated or flooding of the canister would be from a serious malfunction, or (more commonly) someone keeps adding more gas long after the pump nozzle clicked off, to get the next two dollars in it.

You'd have to understand how and when the system runs its self tests, then compare to your driving situations. It's entirely possible you can drive a long time without the system running its self test enough times to trip the light.

I just told you one of the things I have been seeing often in my area of the rust belt.

It's up to you to test and verify whether or not it is actually leaking like my example was in the pictures.

BTW, once the CVS valve looks all rusty like mine did, those screws may not come out of the canister. I usually have to replace the canister and the screws along with the CVS valve.


HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

...thanks...looks like I'll save the aggravation for something else and just replace the can & the shut valve...thanks again for your help......tj

 
Rep Power: 208

i had 1457 a few months ago,

i removed the valve from the canister, which was quite the task because the screws were rusted to crap, i removed the entire canister to do this, much easier working on it on a bench then under the car,

after i removed the valve i plugged one end of the valve with my finger and blew into the other end, i could hear air coming out the sides of it.....

so i replaced the valve and its been good ever since,

 
Rep Power: 0

...thanks mikey...got the valve & can on order...only want to do this once....hopefully that will solve the problem...gotta get thru that damn e chk..............

 
Rep Power: 0

so, replaced the can and shut valve today...drove about 40 miles after...went to e-chk...passed....thanks to all who offered good info, only cost me $130 ...problem solved............................................ ...................tj