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There are many many causes to overheating and after looking at the overheating thread none works. Here is what Happens. The coolant seems to all go to the overflow. When it overheats, the radiator is cool. I pressure tested the system and when starting the engine there are no pressure changes indicating head gasket. I also did a block test to test for gasses in the coolant and the test was negative. When pressurizing to 16psi, it eventually goes down to about 14 psi with engine off. When engine is running, it stays stables, even when revving the engine. There is no oil in coolant and no coolant in oil. No white smoke. Going to get a compression check done this week probably but what are some causes? Also, when I rev the engine it cools down(as in hitting the vtec - this is 2004 ex). Also, according to the torque app, the radiator fans are not coming on until it hits 240 degrees. When I rev it I can normally cool it down to 204 degrees.

 
Rep Power: 210

= blown head gasket

 
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Yes but overflow is not bubbling, there are no combustion gases in the cooling system, and the pressure stays constant when starting instead of climbing out of control

 
Rep Power: 186

+1

OP all that doesn't matter. If your overflow is being filled up and/or it's coming out, it's coming from cylinder pressure via your blown head gasket.

Needs a head gasket job ASAP.

Good luck

 
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I'm going to compression test it before though because like I said I connected a pressure reader and there was no rise when started or when overheatin

 
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If it is worth mentioning, the previous owner replaced radiator and didn't have the problem for 2 months

 
Rep Power: 186

Compression testing is not going to show that the head gasket is blown. It's probably going to look just fine unless the previous owner didn't change the oil enough and the rings are worn. It doesn't work to prove the HG is blown for this vehicle.

The best proven method, as ezone always states, is to pressure each cylinder with ~170 psi and look for bubbles coming out of the radiator.

You can also try the below using the cars natural compression.

 
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I don't have the equipment to pressurize to 180. I'm a college student so tools are limited

 
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I changed the thermostat and put actual coolant in instead of distilled water and that appears to have fixed the low coolant level issue and the overheating issue

 
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Okay so I went to dallas and back(550 mile round trip). On way there it did great. On way back it overheated. I did a cylinder pressure test today and here aremy readings:

Cylinder 1: 175
2: 175
3: 175
4: 176

No oil in coolant. No coolant in oil. I have an OEM rad cap and aftermarket thermostat. Coolant still overflows a bit. Seems at high rpms as I was revving it today hard due to seafoam treatment. When I was done there was some steam from coolant spraying on hot radiator.

 
Rep Power: 518

And the radiator is low.

Still needs the head gasket job.
It hasn't healed itself.

 
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No test is proving that. The testing fluid is staying blue no no fumes in radiator. When it cools off the radiator is back to being full again. Ive seen posts on here before where you guys say it is headgasket, the op fixes the headgasket, and it ends up not being that. Why so quick to always jump on that train?

 
Rep Power: 518

You haven't done the right test yet.

If it IS blown, I can prove it in about 15 minutes at the shop.


Because it's missed and misdiagnosed so often.

These will usually pass every last one of the common tests and pass every last one of the common indicators that everyone thinks of.
As you have done.



Your symptoms indicated to Mikey, Matt, and myself that it's blown.

If you don't believe it's blown, please explain what caused it to overheat on the way back from your 550 mile trip.

 
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Low coolant level because it was fine the way there.

And what test should I do then?

 
Rep Power: 518

Where did the coolant go?


Read post #7 in your thread here.




Then see this post...And give the entire thread a read:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4649516

The explanation for your overheating near the end of your trip is within post #18. 4th paragraph, first sentence.

But read the entire thread, there's a ton of info I really don't feel like typing all over again. LOL

 
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http://youtu.be/0xIsJVy5y8U

I did the test. Did I do it correctly?

 
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go back and read my first reply in this thread, you are going around in circles here and living in denial, if your not going to listen to me at least listen to ezone, he is the honda master of all masters

 
Rep Power: 186

OP,

Since none of us 30, 40 and maybe 50 something year old people with varied experience on this particular model of Honda, even one of the top Honda tech's in the country (ezone), can't help you, why don't you go ahead and change every single part that has anything to do with the cooling system, including all o-rings and gaskets, and let us know what actually fixed the problem.

We'll bow to your late teen, early twenty something year old life experience and wisdom. Go ahead and enlighten us young grass hopper.

 
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I'm sorry I don't have disposable income like you do but every test you tell me to do I have been doing.

 
Rep Power: 518

Yes and no. You read the wrong thing, the test is not the video. What was done in the video may not reveal anything unless the breach is quite bad.

Anyway....The setup is ok, the execution is not.

The RATE of your head gasket leakage is so slow, you might not see any results from your setup unless you can go drive it ....maybe something like 450 miles on the highway LOL.

The breach would have to not only displace sufficient liquid from the completely full cooling system to let bubbles through, it would also have to overcome the 13-16PSI radiator pressure cap.

When I said this, I meant this line:
This was outlined in the thread I linked.


If someone wants to sponsor me a go-pro or something, I'd gladly make a video of the entire test. I'll need a test subject with a suspected blown head gasket too. Must be local and able to drive to my shop.

===========
I'm still only human, dude! I make mistakes too.


HTH

 
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That would be a leakdown test correct? The one I need to do?

 
Rep Power: 518

A leakdown tester uses regulated air pressure (low pressure, maybe 30PSI), dual gauges, and is used to measure and maybe find air leaks such as valves.

The low pressures used in a true leakdown test may not be enough to cross the breach.






I don't care about assigning a number value to the amount of leakage at all in this test.

My test method uses high air pressure, unregulated, no gauges.
170 PSI direct from our shop compressor air lines. (Ok it might be a bit lower but the compressor says 170 on it)
My only goal in the test is to force air past the breach in the head gasket, AND do it rapidly enough to see change in a timely manner, and pinpoint which specific cylinder(s) have leakage.

Remember, by the time I get to this point I've already evaluated this by observable symptoms (and storytelling, and maybe interpretive dance LOL).
I already know what I expect to see in the test.
I'm mainly doing it for confirmation of my suspicion and to pinpoint which cylinders are affected.

 
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Dont have to worry about my overheating issue anymore

 
Rep Power: 518

HOLY CARP!!!

I hope everyone is OK

 
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Yeah. Cop said it is most likely totaled. Oil and coolant was everywhere. We are just beat up with muscle relaxers and pain killers to satisfy us. The other driver was very professional about it making sure we were still okay 6 hours later after we all left hospital. Probably gonna go to chiropractor tomorrow cause my back already isn't that great and this didn't make it better. And I'm only 19 so probably can't get a rental car. Good thing I have a lot of friends already offering to give me rides for the next couple weeks. But I hate to see this happen to my car. First car wreck(motorcyxle wreck earlier in 2014 but wasn't as sore then as I am now).

 
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Man, that looks like a total to me. Glad everyone is alive!

My GFs son is going through the same thing right now, car was totaled and he has to find some more decent wheels ASAP. Insurance company towed his car away Friday.

 
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Def a total.

A few years ago I popped a curb at maybe 25-30 km/h and did $3500 damage, with used parts! Control arm, sub frame, sway bar, not to mention all the SRS components like the seatbelts and new SRS module which I got new from Honda. That damage has got to be more than the cost of that car.

Glad you are o.k. At least now you know more about a Civic so you can make a really imformed decision about your next one!

 
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If battery didnt break off then I bet it for sure overheats now. Lost oil and coolant

 
Rep Power: 146

I mean technically you can fix it...new engine and tranny, fender, hood, battery, axle(s), subframe, control arm, airbags, buckle and belt tensioners, airbags, SRS module, brake assembely, windshield and a bunch of other small stuff. Definately not worth it. Get the insurance claim, take a deep breath and move on to the next one... it happens...

 
Rep Power: 367

ouch! from the look behind the front fender, most likely bent frame. Total, sad to say.

glad you mostly ok.