bravo79

Been doing this timing belt replacement for over 2 weeks now !. Finally I over torqued the valve cover bolt and broke it inside the head. See picture. How Do I Fix this?

cja3455

those bolts have very low torque. last time I stripped the thread on one of those, luckily the other five were sufficient to keep the cover sealed without any leak, so in the worst case you can ignore it. here's one method to remove the broken bolt
the good news is that you have plenty of space up there

mikey1

are you kidding me?

holy crap man, bolts do not loosen by themselves,

those bolts only need to be hand tight and then snug them slightly with a wrench, thats it, no need to even use a torque wrench,

bravo79

Thanks for the reply. I open it due to leak. The new valve cover seal I got from hondaautomotiveparts.com was a little over size and it was cut from the timing belt area. I torque the bolt little more thinking I forgot to torque it and thats why it was leaking engine oil. Not to mention that I have p0336 code right now for the stupid ckp sensor because I disconnected it.

ezone

Left-hand drill bits.

Finesse.

Stock 99

Left handed drill bits???? I thought they only worked in left handed drills.

anyway....the rest of the world just uses 'easy outs' for this job. Patience is required and take note of all the metal shavings in the above video so wrap a large cloth around your work area so that crap doesn't end up in your engine. If a bit of the broken bolt was actually sticking out I would have used a dremel with a grinding wheel cut a slot in the top and just used a screw driver to remove it....much easier to do.

http://jaw.iinet.net.au/motorbike/easyout.html

ezone

If one runs a left handed drill bit spinning to the right, it will be futile.

But if one spins it the correct direction, chances are good that it will catch in the broken chunk and spin it right out of the threads without effort or damage to the threads. One must drill a hole before one can use an easy-out, so one may as well drill that hole with the left hand bit and run the risk of saving a bunch of time.

bravo79

Finally got the damn broken bolt out. I ordered the valve cover gasket kit and changed out everything. Now Im still having the stupid p0336 cel because of the ckp sensor connector thing. I Cleaned it with Electrical connection spray cleaner than compressed air today. The cel went away and car drove fine than cel (engine light) came back again. I really don't want to open everything up again to change the stupid sensor. The car drives fine now but I still have the cel. Any one can help with this please?

ezone

Was there any corrosion on the pins and terminals of the CKP sensor and connector?

Terminal (female) tension low, pin drag check?

bravo79

I didnt see any on the connector but I cant see the sensor pins. Will brake cleaner work? Although it said "cover your wires and rubber materials when use"

kinakoes2

Next time that happens, and a stub's left that you can't grab with anything... take a cutting wheel on a dremel, or even an automatic center punch, and make a slight slot or punch hole off center of the bolt piece.

Now take a punch, drift or pin whichever works... and gently tap the bolt piece CCW to back it out. I've removed many &%*^$*& Bombardier ATV and Sea-Doo watercraft French-Canadian-miser-engineered stainless steel bolts from them, using this method.

The bolt head, under torque against the surface of the part it's holding on, is what stretches the threads and causes it to stay in place due to friction and not back out, as long as torque is spec'd properly. So if the head isn't there, it's quite easy to just rotate the remaining threads out, provided the threads aren't corroded or you threadlocked the fastener.

Give that a try next time -- using a left-handed drill bit in a hard bolt material (like stainless, hoo boy) can easily cause the bit to bite into the soft aluminum around it... possibly causing a leak condition if you're really unlucky. If the tap-backwards method doesn't work, go for a LH bit... but the tap-out way works 90% of the time.

ezone

If there is real corrosion, it probably wouldn't help remove it.

I'd do a pin drag check to see if the female terminals are too loose.
And look into "Stabilant-22".
Don't use it.
Probably can eat certain types of wire insulation, and there is a gasket inside the elect. connector housing that could be either rubber or silicone.


Have you replaced the CKP sensor?

bravo79

The last thing I want to do is to open up the power steering, alternator, Harmonic balancer , Lower cover to get to the sensor. Its much easier to just clean it from outside but i guess its not doing it.

mikey1

i know this will not help you but im putting it here for future reference,

why did you unplug the damn thing?

the only time you need to unplug that sensor is if your replacing it,

if your changing your timing belt, dont unplug it, just unbolt and remove the sensor with the wire still attached

bravo79

I know I know I read the instruction and it said DO NOT UNPLUG but the first thing I did when I sow it is I unplug it than remembered oh sh**t I shouldnt have dont that.

I think I either have to buy this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221141594094?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Or this
37500-PLC-015

I dont know which one is first

ezone

^One requires much disassembly, the other doesn't.

Roll the dice?
Easier one first?

bravo79

I will clean it and clean it and clean it till no more plastic on the plug or the sensor it self lol. The damn thing is like $70 wtf? The repair kit is like $24 but if it doesn't fix the issue than I might end up paying $100

mikey1

then just bite the bullet and replace the damn thing

it seems to be causing you more trouble/hassle then its worth

kinakoes2

Word. Nickel-&-diming your ride is always, always more trouble than it's worth. You're simply deferring your problems for later... esp if you're not that mechanically-inclined.

A racing bud of mine who used to work for a multinational property mgmt firm, said that the lower half of contract bids for construction, often cost them another 30% in delays, overruns, and added costs -- because that lower bid gives up a *lot* of oversight and QA. Paying up front for certain things, esp if the difference is less than $50, almost always guarantees less headaches in the long play.

bravo79

Please let the pros give their opinions that's what im here for. i know whats going on and whats the mess up Im here more for what product to use or any trick, experience with such an issue. There is allot of posting and info when you search p0336.

I feel like im the 9th gen accord forum for some reason.


Thanks ezone and all for the (Helpful) comments here

ezone

I believe I've already done this.

Confirm wiring integrity,
confirm no corrosion,
confirm female terminal tension
Correct any issues found above

if all else is correct and proper, replace the sensor. With a factory part.

Did you research Stabilant-22?

bravo79

I did Stabilant-22 seems to be a good option. I will try with it again maybe tomorrow or on the weekend. If nothing works than changing the sensor it is.

kinakoes2

Apparently you haven't been to my profile yet.

Newbs...

bravo79

Its Noob...

ezone

n00b

kinakoes2

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newbie.

Car running any better, now that that's off your chest?

mikey1

uuummm, no you don't, or it would be fixed by now,

have you even tested the wiring to the connector?

you seem to be fixated on corrosion being the problem, what have you done to prove this fact, and come to this conclusion?

bravo79

I will only respond to pros! not n00bs JK. Here is how I got the Valve cover broken bolt out.
I used this to get it out
http://www.lowes.com/pd_574653-281-5...r|1&facetInfo=

bravo79

Problem fixed!



Replaced with a new one