Rep Power: 0

I have a problem with my door lock on the drivers side the power lock on that side does not work i think it's the acuator but I'm not complety sure

 
Rep Power: 518

I can't tell what car you have here.....Is this on your Aston Martin, or the Jaguar?



Pull the door panel and find the connector for the power lock actuator.
Disconnect it.
Connect a test light bulb between the two wiring terminals for the actuator in the harness connector.
Operate the P/L switch (both directions), see if the bulb lights up each time.


If the bulb lights up, the system is ok and the actuator is bad.
If the bulb doesn't light up...... you have a problem.

 
Rep Power: 308

Listen for noise from drivers door and watch lock **** for slight movement on 1st unlock press.

 
Rep Power: 0

So I have a question;

The passenger side works properly, (but seems like its getting weak), the driver side only functions with the key from outside or manually push down the lock indicator and pull the handle from the inside.

I can hear the actuator "pop" when I hit the lock/unlock switch but it doesn't pull the lock mechanism, rod or lock indicator.

There are two connectors on the Left actuator/door latch, the bottom connector(2 wires) seems to control the power for the lock.

I don't have a Test Light, so how would I go about testing with a multimeter?

 
Rep Power: 173

So your driver's side actuator makes a noise but it can NEITHER lock or unlock the door?
Is it possible that your actuator is just disconnected from your lock mechanism? I haven't heard of that happening but it's possible I guess.
Can you feel ANY vibration in the door lock tab when you hit the lock buttons?
-If you can, then your actuator could be about dead. It's not THAT hard of a fix.
-If you can't, it might just need to be reconnected. That might be an easier fix.

 
Rep Power: 518

Weak actuators are common....shortly before they quit completely.

If you can hear and feel an actuator trying to operate, then chances are good it's just a bad actuator. If there were wire or control problems, it wouldn't be able to work at all.
Sure you do.

Get any cheap #194 light bulb like this (pick one that works)


Straighten out the 2 wires at the bottom.
Presto!
Instant 12V test light bulb. Insert each leg into the 2 wire connector for the power door lock actuator.


Wanna get fancy? Connect lengths of wire to each leg of the bulb. Maybe use a real socket for the bulb.

Or use any 12v bulb you have handy, with a socket.

Or, you know, go spend $10 at AutoZone on a real one.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=186543_0_0_






Or $4 online
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...d=0CI4BEPMCMAA



Or make one.

 
Rep Power: 0

Correct, I can hear it, but no movement. Everything seems to be connected.

Genius

I'm all about cheapies...but I will pick up a light next trip to Harbor Freight, I can't find my old one.

 
Rep Power: 0

If you plan to troubleshoot your own electrical, there are few handier tools to have, than jumper wires. Two alligator clips crimped onto both ends of a length of wire, or two blade males or two blade females... you get the idea. This allows you to probe from the business end of a connector rather than pierce through insulation/weatherproofing to get to contacts... as well as better access via the extra length of wire.

I have a plastic silverware tray full of all sorts of combos, and they've been invaluable in fumigating electrical bugs, esp the intermittent kind. :P