I was driving to work this morning at about 45 mph and my lights shut off (quickly, never dimmed). At the same the all of the dash lights went out and the car stalled. I was able to coast the car into a parking lot. I checked the terminals and wiggled them a little, they were clean. The belt looks good, so I tried to start it. I have no power at all, the car didn't click, headlights still don't come on, no interior light. When I turn the key forward the check engine light and oil light are the only two that come on. I checked the oil and it was ok, i wasn't sure if it had a low oil shutoff. I tried to jump start it, thinking maybe the battery or alternator had gone, and it just took a crap. This was not the case, it didn't change anything, still no power anywhere.
There was no check engine light on before this, and the car shutoff like I had turned the key, no sputtering et.
Thanks for the help, I bought the car 3 days ago and have only put about 100 miles on it. I checked a few fuses, but since I was in my way to work, I only had a few minutes until a coworker was going to be there. Any suggestions?
There was no check engine light on before this, and the car shutoff like I had turned the key, no sputtering et.
Thanks for the help, I bought the car 3 days ago and have only put about 100 miles on it. I checked a few fuses, but since I was in my way to work, I only had a few minutes until a coworker was going to be there. Any suggestions?
Since you seem to describe a lack of battery power reaching several items, I'd probably begin with using a voltmeter or test light to check all engine compartment fusebox fuses and connections, see if battery power is actually getting through the fuses and connections to reach its intended destinations.
Then maybe pick one important item that doesn't work and trace out what (power) is missing....like maybe check at the ignition switch circuits or something.
Oil and Check Engine lights, did they illuminate at full brightness or were they dimmer than normal?
Post the year, make, model, body style, trim level, and location of you and the car too.
Then maybe pick one important item that doesn't work and trace out what (power) is missing....like maybe check at the ignition switch circuits or something.
Oil and Check Engine lights, did they illuminate at full brightness or were they dimmer than normal?
Post the year, make, model, body style, trim level, and location of you and the car too.
The check engine and oil lights were full brightness until I tried to turn the key. Then the only thing that happened is they dimmed. No clicks etc.
2003 honda civic 4 door sedan lx. Located in upstate ny
Thanks.
2003 honda civic 4 door sedan lx. Located in upstate ny
Thanks.
03, LX, sedan, US market car. Got it. Thanx.
Anything aftermarket in it, such as stereo, maybe a huge wire that used to go to an amp in the trunk?
Check the 2 white cables that are bolted into the engine compartment fuse box while you are in there.. Not just present and accounted for, but that battery power hasn't been lost due to poor connection elsewhere.
(one is from the battery, other is from the alternator)
If you have the key turned on so the oil and engine lights are on bright, what happens to them when you turn on the headlights?
Does the horn work? Do the hazard flashers work?
Anything aftermarket in it, such as stereo, maybe a huge wire that used to go to an amp in the trunk?
Check the 2 white cables that are bolted into the engine compartment fuse box while you are in there.. Not just present and accounted for, but that battery power hasn't been lost due to poor connection elsewhere.
(one is from the battery, other is from the alternator)
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until I tried to turn the key. Then the only thing that happened is they dimmed.
No starter "click" or "clunk" at all?until I tried to turn the key. Then the only thing that happened is they dimmed.
If you have the key turned on so the oil and engine lights are on bright, what happens to them when you turn on the headlights?
Does the horn work? Do the hazard flashers work?
Factory stereo, factory speakers, no amps. I'll check those those two white wires tomorrow.
Correct there is no click, clunk, nothing when the key is turned. The only thin is the engine light and oil light dim.
No change in dash light when headlights are turned on, keep in mind the headlights don't turn on with the switch.
I'll have to check on the horn and hazards tomorrow.
As I said this happened on my way I to work this morning, so I had the car towed to my house and hitched a ride with a co-worker.
Also, I just purchased this car in the last week. I have driven it for somewhere around 100 miles. It was wrecked in the front end and I purchased it after it had been repaired. I was told they didn't do anything electrical, only replaced the bumper and radiator.
Correct there is no click, clunk, nothing when the key is turned. The only thin is the engine light and oil light dim.
No change in dash light when headlights are turned on, keep in mind the headlights don't turn on with the switch.
I'll have to check on the horn and hazards tomorrow.
As I said this happened on my way I to work this morning, so I had the car towed to my house and hitched a ride with a co-worker.
Also, I just purchased this car in the last week. I have driven it for somewhere around 100 miles. It was wrecked in the front end and I purchased it after it had been repaired. I was told they didn't do anything electrical, only replaced the bumper and radiator.
I just checked the white wires, they are there and powered. The same thing is happening, but here is where it got weird. I decided to hook the code reader to it since I could see the check engine light, just for grins. As soon as I clip the code reader in, the car returns to normal... Lights come on, allows me to start it. I unplug the reader and it slowly dies. I checked and I have power in about half of the fuses under the hood, but I cannot find a bad fuse.
its definitely a short somewhere, the body of the car is hot.
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As soon as I clip the code reader in, the car returns to normal...
Start checking the grounds! Battery cable to body, batt cable to engine.... and the ground wires on top of the upper water neck/thermostat area.As soon as I clip the code reader in, the car returns to normal...
Quick answer, did not really research which grounds.....
I'm still looking for a loose ground, but when I take a test light and put the gator clamp on the body of the car, the light comes on. Also when I do this the tail light relay clicks. I'm thinking that my issue is possibly a wire touching metal in the tail lights... does that make sense?
You were correct, there was a ground that was disconnected. Car runs great again. Thank you

