Rep Power: 175

I am real slow as other things have come up. Anyway I am getting very close to pulling my head. I have the top timing cover removed and have a question. My timing belt has less than 20 k miles on it. I was going to re use it. Is it necessary to pull the crank pulley or is there a way to get the belt off the cam pulley and get it back on without doing that. Trying to avoid finding the special crank pulley holding tool. If it is better to take it all the way down that is what I will do. Thanks.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 517

I use a hook tool (bent coat hanger) to lift and release the tensioner spring from its upper peg.
Then I can slip the timing belt off the cam gear.

It might be tricky to put it back together, but it's doable.

 
Rep Power: 175

Hope this is one of the last questions about head gaskets. Last thing I have to do is pull the intake away from the head. I have remove the center bolt and the two funny bolts across the top and two longer bolts at the two lower corners. I have the diagram but I can not figure out where the rest are. I am guessing the are at least two more underneath. I assume you have to get those from underneath. is that correct? Sure is a lot of disassembly just to get to the head.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 517

You should be able to see in this pic, holes in the intake gasket (#8) to indicate which bolts need to be removed.

You can see the brackets that anchor the bottom of the plastic manifold here too (#11, 12, 13).
10mm bolts pointing straight up, or 12mm bolts holding the brackets to the block.

 
Rep Power: 517

Oh yeah, once you get this apart, I recommend (assuming yours has EGR) you take the time to remove the injector/EGR plate #7 and clean out all of the carbon buildup from the EGR passages in that plate.

 
Rep Power: 175

Ezone,

I was able to acquire the manual on cd and had that diagram. It is just a little complicated. I was trying to not pull the entire intake off. Can I take that plate off while everything else is hooked up once I get the head off?

 
Rep Power: 517

I take enough hardware apart to just push the intake toward the firewall and clear all of the hardware so the head can be lifted straight up.

Yes......
It might be easier to get all the hardware loose while it is still anchored to the cylinder head though.

HTH

 
Rep Power: 175

I must be doing something wrong. I have been fighting the intake. I have everything loose except the center bottom nut. It looks like it is made of brass and maybe starting to round off. I am to the point now that I may pull the head and the intake together and deal with it outside the car. I don't see how you can put those bottom nuts back on in the car. You said you could pull the head in about 1.5 hours. I thought if I tripled that, that would be how long for me. I have already passed that. I bag and tag everything so that slows me down. I will get it down but it hasn't been easy.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 517

Pretty sure that one has to come off, if I'm looking at it right. There's a hole for it in the picture of the intake gasket, so there should be a stud sticking out of the head in that spot.


Having many wrenches in various brands and angles helps to get those hard to reach ones where you don't have hardly any room to swing a wrench.

 
Rep Power: 517

 
Rep Power: 517

 
Rep Power: 175

If I am looking at it right there are eight assorted nuts and bolts that hold the intake assembly on. I have all loose except the center nuton the bottom. It is the center one bottom left in the diagram. there are three together in the picture by the long bolt. I trying to get it from underneath like I did the other two. I cant see any other way to get at them. Any tricks?

 
Rep Power: 175

Looking at the picture of the injector base it appears the two nuts on either side of the one I am having trouble with probably didnt need to come off. Experience definitely helps but I am learning as I go. Just don't want to screw anything up.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 517

Isn't there a gap between the 2 middle intake runners where you can see the offending nut from above?

 
Rep Power: 185

That center bottom bolt is a biatch. It's right above the oil pressure sensor and you need a longy wrench with an angle on it. And if you think getting it off is hard, wait until you have to put it back on. It was a painful experience for me.

 
Rep Power: 517

I'm real sure I do it from above: I remember after removing the upper nut out of the way, getting it broke loose, then using a screwdriver to spin it off. A strong magnet so it doesn't fall down and get lost.
Many different wrenches to find one at the right angle to have room to swing it and get it broke loose.

You can't use the screwdriver to spin the nut off if this is the last fastener holding everything together.

 
Rep Power: 185

Yeah, you told me that last year when I did mine and I couldn't figure out how to get to it. I looked pretty hard, but just couldn't see how to get to it from above.

 
Rep Power: 199

Just loosen the brackets and pull it with the head, yes it is heavy, with all attached, but have a friend help yank it off. I pulled it off with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached.

 
Rep Power: 185

Dude, you're crazy.

 
Rep Power: 175

Ended up pulling the head and the intake together. It really isn't that heavy , just awkward. Easy for two people. If I every do it again that's how I would do it. Spent a day trying to get the intake loose. Anyway progress is made. Now I can get back to work on it. The cylinder that was leaking has no carbon on the piston so I guess it was steam cleaned. I saw a little stain that looks like it was where it was leaking. Can't find my straight edge but I used a carpenters level and head looks ok. Have to check it out better but now a little cleaning and I can start to put it back together. I was a little surprised that once the head bolts were out the head pulled right up. Other engines I have worked on you had to pry it to get it loose. Thanks to everybody to get me to this point. I will post pictures later.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 517

You positive about that? 0.002" is max allowable warpage. (0.05mm)


That's because it's a steel gasket. There isn't much to stick, not like a composite gasket.

 
Rep Power: 185

Cool. Glad you got it out. I never would've done that, but that's me. I just couldn't see disconnecting the couple hoses, sensors and whatever else when I could just get that one PITA bolt out and zip tie (in my case) the intake back and away from the head and at the same time still have access to the EGR passages to clean them.

 
Rep Power: 175

computer is acting up. You can bet I will double check head and block for flatness. I just gave it a quick check with what I had on hand.

Just opened my gasket kit. There are two large conical rings in the kit. One is copper colored and one is like pewter colored. They are shaped like exhaust donuts. Anybody know what they are used for? I think they are for the exhaust flange but I did not take the header apart. There is two of them. The other for a different application? The label on the box on lists one exhaust flange.

 
Rep Power: 517

Kits are usually compiled to cover several versions. Use what you need.

Got pics of the parts in question?

 
Rep Power: 175

I will try and post some pics tomorrow. I am done for the night. Good nite all.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 175

Checked the head the best I could but just didn't have confidence in myself. Took it to the local head shop to have them pressure test and resurface. At least I will know it is right. I plan to keep the car for a while so I thought it was the best way. Spent the afternoon pressure washing the engine compartment so everything is nice and clean.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 175

Got my head back from the shop this afternoon. It is like brand new. anxious to get it back together. Calling for rain. Do you use any sealer on the head gasket?

Ed

 
Rep Power: 517

Service manuals say no, and I use factory parts.

What does your box/instructions say? (assuming Fel-Pro?)

 
Rep Power: 175

The gasket kit did not have a lot of instructions. It says it has special coatings and to pretty much follow oem instructions. So I am not going to put anything on it. Thanks again.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 175

I have another vehicle so I take my time. I finally finished my head gasket job. Had CEL and code P1519 when I started it. Found I left a connector off the back of the throttle body. I think it was the throttle Position Sensor. The AICS was fine. Hooked it back up and all is good so far. Next I have to figure out the wiring to the stereo. I am afraid to plug that back in after I fixed the guage cluster lights. The only other issue I know of is the lower control arm bushings. I will try and tackle that while I have some time off Christmas. I want to thank Ezone and CraigW and all the rest of you guys for all the help.