Replacing PCM Questions
Replacing PCM Questions
Will receive junkyard PCM and immobilizer for my 2001 EX auto 4Dr tonight.
Other than unhooking battery, are there any other precautions to consider before installing the new one? (already pulled the old one)
Just want to be sure I done upset the airbags somehow.....
Also, is the immobilizer relatively easy to switch out on my car?
Another also - I was told my car would work without reprogramming if I replaced both the PCM and immobilizer, but I would need to use the ignition key that comes with the immobilizer. I was assured that the door remotes would still work as well. Only inconvenience would be having two keys to keep track of instead of just one.
Car has been sitting in driveway since May, hope this fixes it!
Other than unhooking battery, are there any other precautions to consider before installing the new one? (already pulled the old one)
Just want to be sure I done upset the airbags somehow.....
Also, is the immobilizer relatively easy to switch out on my car?
Another also - I was told my car would work without reprogramming if I replaced both the PCM and immobilizer, but I would need to use the ignition key that comes with the immobilizer. I was assured that the door remotes would still work as well. Only inconvenience would be having two keys to keep track of instead of just one.
Car has been sitting in driveway since May, hope this fixes it!
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Replacing PCM Questions
Will receive junkyard PCM and immobilizer for my 2001 EX auto 4Dr tonight.
unhooking battery, are there any other precautions to consider before
Just want to be sure I done upset the airbags somehow.....
Just want to be sure I done upset the airbags somehow.....
Also, is the immobilizer relatively easy to switch out on my car?
The breakaway bolts (holding the column lock assembly to the steering column tube) are the biggest PITA of the job IMO. Not a big deal if you can spin them out using a center punch and hammer....just tedious. New bolts should only be about $2 each (qty 2) #35102-SV4-003 at a dealer. (I wouldn't do the "breakaway" part during the install until I'm certain the job is going to work!)
Another also - I was told my car would work without reprogramming if I replaced both the PCM and immobilizer, but I would need to use the ignition key that comes with the immobilizer. I was assured that the door remotes would still work as well. Only inconvenience would be having two keys to keep track of instead of just one.
Did you ever sort out what the actual problem was that caused the PCM failure? Loose alternator bolts, or bad grounds?
Make sure it's fixed or you might smoke the new PCM just like the old one.
Re: Replacing PCM Questions
Thanks for your help Ezone
I have new Honda dealer battery and grounding cables to install, as the other ones were very corroded from the few years the car lived in New England.
The alternator belt seems tight, but I haven't spent time to try to check the alternator bolts, looks like they will be a pain to access. Hopefully the mechanic that did the timing belt tightened the bolts back up.
Battery light came on and stayed on for a month or so before computer died. Local auto parts store verified the charging system was functioning properly.
Still have the issue of the P1361 code appearing a few months after the timing belt job, then again a few months later. Engine seemed to run fine and had no rattling noises, so I will replace the cam shaft sensor once the car is operational again.
I've been driving my truck since May, and am now motivated to get this car fixed, now that I see how much more I'm spending on gas!
I have new Honda dealer battery and grounding cables to install, as the other ones were very corroded from the few years the car lived in New England.
The alternator belt seems tight, but I haven't spent time to try to check the alternator bolts, looks like they will be a pain to access. Hopefully the mechanic that did the timing belt tightened the bolts back up.
Battery light came on and stayed on for a month or so before computer died. Local auto parts store verified the charging system was functioning properly.
Still have the issue of the P1361 code appearing a few months after the timing belt job, then again a few months later. Engine seemed to run fine and had no rattling noises, so I will replace the cam shaft sensor once the car is operational again.
I've been driving my truck since May, and am now motivated to get this car fixed, now that I see how much more I'm spending on gas!
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Re: Replacing PCM Questions
The alternator belt seems tight,
EDIT: Loose mounting bolts do not cause a loose belt.
Didn't you read the bulletin I linked in earlier posts? THIS
Hopefully the mechanic that did the timing belt tightened the bolts back up.
There ain't no "hopefully" about it. We all make mistakes, and this is not only a common mistake, it's a HUGE mistake in that it costs you serious money.
This particular mistake is so common that the factory put out a bulletin about it!
but I haven't spent time to try to check the alternator bolts, looks like they will be a pain to access.
Last edited by ezone; Sep 13, 2013 at 10:26 PM.
Re: Replacing PCM Questions
Thanks Ezone, yes, I read your earlier posts, and will check the alternator bolts before I start it up. Does the engine need to be jacked up to access them? Thanks again!
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Replacing PCM Questions
I can't say that you will need to or not.
Depending on my mood and what else is getting done, I might do it without moving the engine or I might remove the mount so the engine can be lifted and lowered as necessary.
Long handled ratchet with short 14mm socket might reach the upper alt bolt from above.
Through the wheelwell and/or from underneath:
The bottom alt bolt should take a 12mm tool, and the bolt attaching that bracket to the engine block a 14mm. I can't tell you for sure which tools to use on those.
Depending on my mood and what else is getting done, I might do it without moving the engine or I might remove the mount so the engine can be lifted and lowered as necessary.
Long handled ratchet with short 14mm socket might reach the upper alt bolt from above.
Through the wheelwell and/or from underneath:
The bottom alt bolt should take a 12mm tool, and the bolt attaching that bracket to the engine block a 14mm. I can't tell you for sure which tools to use on those.
Re: Replacing PCM Questions
Installed recycled PCM and ignition from eBay last weekend and car started right up and ran great after sitting idle since May!!! Runs quiet and smooth with 113k orig miles. Now I just need to install a new cam shaft position sensor, because it cut out on me on the way to work this morning after running great all week, Started right up after 5 min and drove the rest of way to work, then it ran fine at lunch. This is the third time it's cut out like this, did it in Jan 2013, April 1, 2013 then today......hope it's just the sensor, if not, I will order a head online and get it fixed. Just glad it's running again!
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