'02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
03-27-2013
#1
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 
'02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
First off, hello! As I've been replacing/maintaining various aspects of my car, I almost always have found myself looking at these forums for guidance. Now that I have an issue that I can't exactly diagnose (and no money to have a mechanic do it for me!), I finally made an account to hopefully get specific help.
Pointing out that I read as many of the pinned DIY/troubleshooting topics as I could for any relative information, and I also scanned some of the more recent help posts to see if somebody had the same kind of issues before making this topic of my own.
Car Specs/possibly important information:
Pointing out that I read as many of the pinned DIY/troubleshooting topics as I could for any relative information, and I also scanned some of the more recent help posts to see if somebody had the same kind of issues before making this topic of my own.
Car Specs/possibly important information:
- 2002 Honda Civic DX, 5 speed
- Bought at ~56k miles a year ago, currently at 66k miles
- Timing Belt/Water Pump replacement at 59k miles
- Replaced my spark plugs (got NGK) one week ago
- No Cat, so my car is constantly pulling check engine lights
* For clarity, I bought the car from a kid who had already taken it out and did some piping underneath. I know a decent amount about general healthy car maintenance and what stuff is, but not enough to know how to re-pipe anything.
So my issue (TL/DR below):
My car won't start. Blunt, I know, but the events leading up to it is what makes it so complicated to diagnose. I had been having some noisy belts issue. It eventually got really bad and would be consistently noisy throughout driving, so I got the belts to replace it. When I opened my hood to begin, I found the bolt securing the alternator was already about 3 inches out. Thought it was weird, but went onward to replace my belts. When I would drive, if I got to a high enough speed/RPMs, my car would involuntarily jerk and my car would stop accelerating. If I pushed on the gas at this point,I would find that my car would not go any faster, but would generally maintain the same speed. I also found that if I turned my car off and back on, I usually would be able to accelerate again.
This only happened once, because I was rolling down the interstate and had to get to work. Didn't really want to get stuck.
When I got to work, found my alternator belt had ripped in half during the car ride, my alternator had practically loosened itself all the way off of my car, and my P/S belt was off the track/loose (not ripped/torn).
Got it home, the next day I put the old alternator belt back on (I kept it for whatever reason) and we made sure to tighten everything as much as possible (had a friend help me out this time). From there, I drove it to the nearby advanced auto to get a new belt.
Along the way, I noticed that my car was sluggish when accelerating in first, and whenever accelerating after changing gears. Made a deeper sound when accelerating, compared to the normal sound my car usually makes. Best way I could describe the noise difference is comparable to what it sounds like if one shifts into 4th or 5th gear at say 20-30 MPH, just not as favorable.
I had work that day, and it drove fine to/from work with the old belt. The plan was to go to class (yesterday) and meet up with my friend after to put the new belt on and hopefully finish the deal. However, I started my car, and as I backed out/changed to first to go forward, my car sputtered and died. And now my car will not start. I had a couple of people come out (I can go more into their involvement, not really important I don't think, but I've been doing a driving study that required cameras in my car and such), and they tried to give me a jump. Apparently my battery was sitting at 11.3 and jumped down to 7.6 when they tried to jump me.
Friend and I took my battery to advanced, got it recharged, put the battery in, car still wouldn't start. At that point, thought it could be the starter or the alternator. Instead of going ahead and reinstalling the new belts, went ahead and disconnected my alternator to get it tested, and it also checked out fine.
Now I'm sitting here with my car partially disassembled and no clue why it will not start. Both of us looking around, my friend was told by someone my fuel pump or filter could be an issue, but I don't think it would be at only 66,k miles.
Thought/ideas?
TL/DR:
I replaced my spark plugs a little over a week ago, several days before attempting the belt replacement. I used NGK spark plugs, and I'm 99.9% positive I put them in correctly/flush. I haven't tried the spark test, because ATM I don't have access to transportation to the parts store to get a spare plug. And I don't know if this is still necessary since I literally just replaced them.
With all of this said, is there any wisdom you guys might have for me? Maybe a way to confirm if my fuel pump is bad/how to check for a bad filter?
- New (well, will be new) P/S belt & Alternator belt.
- Have had the red battery light on my car for a few hundred miles.
So my issue (TL/DR below):
My car won't start. Blunt, I know, but the events leading up to it is what makes it so complicated to diagnose. I had been having some noisy belts issue. It eventually got really bad and would be consistently noisy throughout driving, so I got the belts to replace it. When I opened my hood to begin, I found the bolt securing the alternator was already about 3 inches out. Thought it was weird, but went onward to replace my belts. When I would drive, if I got to a high enough speed/RPMs, my car would involuntarily jerk and my car would stop accelerating. If I pushed on the gas at this point,I would find that my car would not go any faster, but would generally maintain the same speed. I also found that if I turned my car off and back on, I usually would be able to accelerate again.
This only happened once, because I was rolling down the interstate and had to get to work. Didn't really want to get stuck.
When I got to work, found my alternator belt had ripped in half during the car ride, my alternator had practically loosened itself all the way off of my car, and my P/S belt was off the track/loose (not ripped/torn).
Got it home, the next day I put the old alternator belt back on (I kept it for whatever reason) and we made sure to tighten everything as much as possible (had a friend help me out this time). From there, I drove it to the nearby advanced auto to get a new belt.
Along the way, I noticed that my car was sluggish when accelerating in first, and whenever accelerating after changing gears. Made a deeper sound when accelerating, compared to the normal sound my car usually makes. Best way I could describe the noise difference is comparable to what it sounds like if one shifts into 4th or 5th gear at say 20-30 MPH, just not as favorable.
I had work that day, and it drove fine to/from work with the old belt. The plan was to go to class (yesterday) and meet up with my friend after to put the new belt on and hopefully finish the deal. However, I started my car, and as I backed out/changed to first to go forward, my car sputtered and died. And now my car will not start. I had a couple of people come out (I can go more into their involvement, not really important I don't think, but I've been doing a driving study that required cameras in my car and such), and they tried to give me a jump. Apparently my battery was sitting at 11.3 and jumped down to 7.6 when they tried to jump me.
Friend and I took my battery to advanced, got it recharged, put the battery in, car still wouldn't start. At that point, thought it could be the starter or the alternator. Instead of going ahead and reinstalling the new belts, went ahead and disconnected my alternator to get it tested, and it also checked out fine.
Now I'm sitting here with my car partially disassembled and no clue why it will not start. Both of us looking around, my friend was told by someone my fuel pump or filter could be an issue, but I don't think it would be at only 66,k miles.
Thought/ideas?
TL/DR:
- I've had the red battery light on my car for a few hundred miles
- Have gone to parts stores several times to have electrical systems checked, alternator, batter, starter were "OK"
- Belts were bad, replaced them
- during replacement, noticed alternator was loose, couldn't tighten it all the way during first belt replacement (my bad, I know)
- alternator belt ripped while driving after replacement; car had accel. issues during this time
- reinstalled old alternator belt in the meantime, noticed loss of power/deeper acceleration noise (sometimes) just after changing gears
- car sputtered and then died after backing out/going into first, now it will not start up
- battery recharged, alternator checked and is good.
I replaced my spark plugs a little over a week ago, several days before attempting the belt replacement. I used NGK spark plugs, and I'm 99.9% positive I put them in correctly/flush. I haven't tried the spark test, because ATM I don't have access to transportation to the parts store to get a spare plug. And I don't know if this is still necessary since I literally just replaced them.
With all of this said, is there any wisdom you guys might have for me? Maybe a way to confirm if my fuel pump is bad/how to check for a bad filter?
03-27-2013
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
End of lunch----TL;DR
I found the bolt securing the alternator was already about 3 inches out. I bet the PCM is toast.
Gotta go.
I found the bolt securing the alternator was already about 3 inches out.
Gotta go.
03-27-2013
#3
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
03-27-2013
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
First thing:
Um, you already KNOW it should have at least a P0420 stored because the catalytic converter is missing.
Go get a scanner or code reader and see if there are any new codes.
Will the scantool communicate with the PCM? (HUGE CLUE HERE, and would probably be the very first thing I check for.)
Posted at the top for a damn good reason.
This is repeated again below.
-----------------------------------
Had time to read your wall of words.
Got a feeling there is 2 possibilities.
It's hard to determine where to start. Either this thing ran the battery dead while driving and now maybe it is flooded, or the PCM burned up. You described symptoms that could be related to either or both situations.
The running conditions leads me to believe the PCM had been at least partially operating in a failsafe mode due to internal damage.
The alternator is not bad -- in and of itself.
The slipping belt will stop it from charging though (red battery light)
The loose bolts will cause excessively high voltage when it DOES work (alt frame ungrounded).
The PCM controls the charging rate and the voltage regulator.
PCM damage starts at about 17+ volts, IIRC.
No start: Are we to assume the starter works and is cranking the engine over ok, but it just won't fire up and run on its own?
At any time while this episode was going downhill, were the gauges acting nuts?
Turn the key to the RUN position, (do not try to start it).
Does the Check Engine Light come on?
Um, you already KNOW it should have at least a P0420 stored because the catalytic converter is missing.
Go get a scanner or code reader and see if there are any new codes.
Will the scantool communicate with the PCM? (HUGE CLUE HERE, and would probably be the very first thing I check for.)
If the scanner cannot communicate......
The way your story reads leads me to believe the PCM is likely to be toast.
This would be directly caused by whomever performed the timing belt job and left the alternator hardware loose.
Loose alternator bolts causes an overcharge/overvoltage condition. The high voltage fries the PCM.
Well known issue.
Link: http://www.underhoodservice.com/issu...ontentid=88560
I hope the shop that did the timing belt work is reputable and upstanding, and does the right thing if it comes down to it.
--------------
Fuel pump? No way, this isn't a GM.
You were looking for a spark plug to check spark? The engine has 4 good ones in it. You don't need to go to the parts store for another.
Pull one out. NOTE if it is wet with fuel or dry as a bone. This tells if fuel is being injected or not.
0_o TL;DR
See if a scanner will get codes.
See if the spark plugs are wet or dry.
/not proofread
Um, you already KNOW it should have at least a P0420 stored because the catalytic converter is missing.
Go get a scanner or code reader and see if there are any new codes.
Will the scantool communicate with the PCM? (HUGE CLUE HERE, and would probably be the very first thing I check for.)
Posted at the top for a damn good reason.
This is repeated again below.
-----------------------------------
Had time to read your wall of words.
Got a feeling there is 2 possibilities.
It's hard to determine where to start. Either this thing ran the battery dead while driving and now maybe it is flooded, or the PCM burned up. You described symptoms that could be related to either or both situations.
The running conditions leads me to believe the PCM had been at least partially operating in a failsafe mode due to internal damage.
The alternator is not bad -- in and of itself.
The slipping belt will stop it from charging though (red battery light)
The loose bolts will cause excessively high voltage when it DOES work (alt frame ungrounded).
The PCM controls the charging rate and the voltage regulator.
PCM damage starts at about 17+ volts, IIRC.
No start: Are we to assume the starter works and is cranking the engine over ok, but it just won't fire up and run on its own?
At any time while this episode was going downhill, were the gauges acting nuts?
Turn the key to the RUN position, (do not try to start it).
Does the Check Engine Light come on?
Um, you already KNOW it should have at least a P0420 stored because the catalytic converter is missing.
Go get a scanner or code reader and see if there are any new codes.
Will the scantool communicate with the PCM? (HUGE CLUE HERE, and would probably be the very first thing I check for.)
If the scanner cannot communicate......
The way your story reads leads me to believe the PCM is likely to be toast.
This would be directly caused by whomever performed the timing belt job and left the alternator hardware loose.
Loose alternator bolts causes an overcharge/overvoltage condition. The high voltage fries the PCM.
Well known issue.
Link: http://www.underhoodservice.com/issu...ontentid=88560
I hope the shop that did the timing belt work is reputable and upstanding, and does the right thing if it comes down to it.
--------------
Fuel pump? No way, this isn't a GM.
You were looking for a spark plug to check spark? The engine has 4 good ones in it. You don't need to go to the parts store for another.
Pull one out. NOTE if it is wet with fuel or dry as a bone. This tells if fuel is being injected or not.
0_o TL;DR
See if a scanner will get codes.
See if the spark plugs are wet or dry.
/not proofread
03-27-2013
#5
Registered!!
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: ct
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
the easiest way to check for fuel is to find ur injectors follow them to the main fuel line there will be a cap looks kinda like a ac hi side cap push that with a screw driver while you have someone turn the key over (please wear glasses)gas hurts if in eyes and if it sprays you know ur fuel pump is working then if everything is installed properly and still dosent start then ignition is bad or you need to get ur key and ignition reprogramed at honda and the easiest way to test a starter is to take off lay it on the ground in front of car put jumpers to your batt then hook the other side to the starter if it cranks its good just put ur foot on it while you do this or it could take off lol but if your batt light has been on then your volts are off or something is hooked up wrong anywere from 12.5 to 14 volts is normal if you have a volt meter
03-27-2013
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
NEGATORY there, Slim Jim!
This ain't a GM! There is no Schrader on the fuel line.
OP would have to disconnect the fuel line completely to figure this out and to connect a real pressure gauge on it.
03-27-2013
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
03-28-2013
#8
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Thank you for all of the insight.
To clarify: I got the timing belt replaced last summer, say around June/early July. Since then I took a 3000 mile road trip in the car amongst other driving. The last time I went to a mechanic was early January, where I got some brake work done and had an oil change. Nothing that should have involved the alternator.
When the whole weirdness happened, my car didn't make any wacky guage actions. Basically, driving was smooth, sudden jerk/lunge, car wouldn't accelerate, held foot on pedal for a moment to figure out what the hell, didn't want to brake while driving on interstate, then thought to try restarting my car while rolling, which worked. Took it easy on the way to work and didn't have the issue anymore 'cuz I didn't try to drive too fast/accelerate too quickly.
I won't be able to mess with the car until tomorrow (Friday) but when I do I'll put everything back together and see if I can do the spark test and maybe get a friend with a code reader.
If my updated information perhaps changes your thought process or clues you in on another potential theory, do tell!
To clarify: I got the timing belt replaced last summer, say around June/early July. Since then I took a 3000 mile road trip in the car amongst other driving. The last time I went to a mechanic was early January, where I got some brake work done and had an oil change. Nothing that should have involved the alternator.
When the whole weirdness happened, my car didn't make any wacky guage actions. Basically, driving was smooth, sudden jerk/lunge, car wouldn't accelerate, held foot on pedal for a moment to figure out what the hell, didn't want to brake while driving on interstate, then thought to try restarting my car while rolling, which worked. Took it easy on the way to work and didn't have the issue anymore 'cuz I didn't try to drive too fast/accelerate too quickly.
I won't be able to mess with the car until tomorrow (Friday) but when I do I'll put everything back together and see if I can do the spark test and maybe get a friend with a code reader.
If my updated information perhaps changes your thought process or clues you in on another potential theory, do tell!
03-28-2013
#9
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Whomever did the timing belt is still the cause of the alternator issue. THAT was the fault of the human that touched it last, your timing belt dude. Any reputable shop will have a written warranty policy such as 12 months/12,000 miles.
Still stuck between running the battery down while driving, or frying the PCM. You aren't giving me the clue I was looking for.
Except for this:
Did you twist the key to restart the engine, or pop the clutch or what?
If you twisted the key to start it, then it didn't lose battery power-- and the PCM is again my likely suspect.
See, up at the top you said you had the red battery light on for a few hundred miles. I'm totally expecting that ran the battery dead while driving, but if the starter cranked it without a jump start or popping the clutch, then the battery wasn't dead at that point in time....leading me to think it was the PCM that made it die.
Still stuck between running the battery down while driving, or frying the PCM. You aren't giving me the clue I was looking for.
Except for this:
then thought to try restarting my car while rolling, which worked.
If you twisted the key to start it, then it didn't lose battery power-- and the PCM is again my likely suspect.
See, up at the top you said you had the red battery light on for a few hundred miles. I'm totally expecting that ran the battery dead while driving, but if the starter cranked it without a jump start or popping the clutch, then the battery wasn't dead at that point in time....leading me to think it was the PCM that made it die.
03-28-2013
#10
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
I had turned the key. At the speed I was going, I didn't think to pop the clutch. Usually only do that to push start it.
I suppose that supports your PCM hypothesis. I just want to try to rule out/confirm a singular problem so that if/when I do spend the money to get the part, it fixes the issue.
Hell, or at least know how much I have to save up to get it replaced.
I suppose that supports your PCM hypothesis. I just want to try to rule out/confirm a singular problem so that if/when I do spend the money to get the part, it fixes the issue.
Hell, or at least know how much I have to save up to get it replaced.
03-28-2013
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Something else to consider: Timing belt slipped a tooth or more, that can kill it. But I don't think it would allow a situation of running good one minute, then bad, then good again before crapping completely.
If it comes down to replacing the PCM, it is not a simple plug and play because of the immobilizer system.
You will probably tow it to a dealer for programming before it will run.
If it comes down to replacing the PCM, it is not a simple plug and play because of the immobilizer system.
You will probably tow it to a dealer for programming before it will run.
03-28-2013
#12
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
-----
Sigh. Either way I'm dropping a lot of money I don't have. Could take a while to get it fixed
e: I'll see if I can get my hands on a reader sometime to get it checked out. Go from there.
03-28-2013
#13
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
(Dunno if double posting is discouraged here, if so I apologize)
Called the dealership... He told me a powertrain control module would run me 6-800 bucks, and would run me about 9-1100 to get it replaced.
Called the dealership... He told me a powertrain control module would run me 6-800 bucks, and would run me about 9-1100 to get it replaced.
03-28-2013
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Would the volt gauge/meter thing on the dash be able to tell if my car was giving out that much voltage? Or is that gauge only really for the battery? It has usually floated between a little over 12 to under 15.
PM me the VIN.
03-29-2013
#16
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
I attached some photos to show what I'm talking about.
That particular meter's needle, usually floats above 12 to around 14. After trying to crank it enough times, if I attempt to turn the key over to start the car, it jumps down to about 11.
Pointing out that if it does have some significance in relation to whatever the output of the alternator might be, I've never seen the gauge read anything higher than 14. I've seen lower, because say I left a light on in my car on accident and the battery almost died, but never too much voltage.
----------------
I reattached my air filter (was gonna clean it since I'm doing everything else, decided not to), alternator (made sure it was good and tight this time), and I managed to reinstall the belts and made sure my tensioners were as tight as I could possibly make them (also secured the P/S again).
I checked to see if it would magically come on, it would not :P but this did give me the chance to see if my spark plugs were wet like ezone suggested.
They were definitely a little wet at the tip. I made sure to tighten them a little more than they were previously, I didn't want to over do it when I installed them.
After trying to get the engine running a few times, one could open up the hood and smell the gasoline. So I'm assuming that means my injectors are working fine.
I still do not have access to a code reader. Don't really know anyone with one, I think.
----------------
slightly relevant: One of my classmates happens to live in my complex, saw me working on my car and came to say hello. Apparently he works at the local autozone, was asking me about my car, told me it probably wasn't the PCM, but rather my starter or my ignition switch. Apparently said gauge on my dash and some sort of regulator the car should have would help prevent the alternator from putting out too much voltage. switches go bad all the time on the civvy's apparently.
Told me to disconnect part of my starter and tap the positive end of my battery with it, to see if it turns on/works. I didn't do this, and I don't really know the validity of his thoughts, but I figured they were worth mentioning on here.
That particular meter's needle, usually floats above 12 to around 14. After trying to crank it enough times, if I attempt to turn the key over to start the car, it jumps down to about 11.
Pointing out that if it does have some significance in relation to whatever the output of the alternator might be, I've never seen the gauge read anything higher than 14. I've seen lower, because say I left a light on in my car on accident and the battery almost died, but never too much voltage.
----------------
I reattached my air filter (was gonna clean it since I'm doing everything else, decided not to), alternator (made sure it was good and tight this time), and I managed to reinstall the belts and made sure my tensioners were as tight as I could possibly make them (also secured the P/S again).
I checked to see if it would magically come on, it would not :P but this did give me the chance to see if my spark plugs were wet like ezone suggested.
They were definitely a little wet at the tip. I made sure to tighten them a little more than they were previously, I didn't want to over do it when I installed them.
After trying to get the engine running a few times, one could open up the hood and smell the gasoline. So I'm assuming that means my injectors are working fine.
I still do not have access to a code reader. Don't really know anyone with one, I think.
----------------
slightly relevant: One of my classmates happens to live in my complex, saw me working on my car and came to say hello. Apparently he works at the local autozone, was asking me about my car, told me it probably wasn't the PCM, but rather my starter or my ignition switch. Apparently said gauge on my dash and some sort of regulator the car should have would help prevent the alternator from putting out too much voltage. switches go bad all the time on the civvy's apparently.
Told me to disconnect part of my starter and tap the positive end of my battery with it, to see if it turns on/works. I didn't do this, and I don't really know the validity of his thoughts, but I figured they were worth mentioning on here.
Last edited by Breedwell; 03-29-2013 at 02:44 PM. Reason: forgot to attach the pics :P
03-29-2013
#17
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Does the starter crank the engine?
03-29-2013
#18
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Nope. I took a video of me trying to start the car, if you'd like me to upload it so you can hear what happens. basically just whirring.
03-29-2013
#20
Registered!!
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: ct
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
can you hear the starter cranking when you turn the key if not slap it lightly with a hammer while you have someone turning the key over at the same time if it starts then the starter is bad and to make it easier keep ur air filter either stock or not off for better access for the hammer if its idling with out it its fine
03-30-2013
#21
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_T8GUuppbg[/YOUTUBE]
my "it shoots up" was referring to the volt gauge thing.
gonna have my girlfriend try to start the car while I tap the starter. See if that works tomorrow.
my "it shoots up" was referring to the volt gauge thing.
gonna have my girlfriend try to start the car while I tap the starter. See if that works tomorrow.
03-30-2013
#22
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
The starter is FINE. Don't bother tapping anything.
The starter is cranking the engine.
The engine will not run.
See PM soon.
The starter is cranking the engine.
The engine will not run.
See PM soon.
03-30-2013
#23
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Bad focus in the video.
Does the check engine light still come on with the rest of the dash lights?
What about the green key symbol, does it come on too?
Does the check engine light still come on with the rest of the dash lights?
What about the green key symbol, does it come on too?
03-30-2013
#24
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
That light has come and gone (usually on) since I got the car last March. This is before I got all of my various mechanical work done to it. It was on the time I tried to start the car beforehand. Then I thought "hey, I should record this" lol
The key light comes on too, it just didn't during this video.
e: ezone, that was probably as focused as I could get it, was using an older blackberry phone xD
The key light comes on too, it just didn't during this video.
e: ezone, that was probably as focused as I could get it, was using an older blackberry phone xD
03-30-2013
#25
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
I was just trying to make sure both lights come on with all the rest during the 2 second bulb check mode, when you first turn the key on.
03-30-2013
#26
Registered!!
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: ct
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
video is fine the starter is cranking and you have plenty of power so now there's only two things no gas or maybe a bad icm (ignition control module)
03-30-2013
#27
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
04-01-2013
#28
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
04-01-2013
#29
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
It's also listed in Alldata under Starting and Charging > Service Bulletins.
SN040802 08/01/2004 Engine Won't Start - Check Alternator Bolts
04-01-2013
#30
Meh.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 32
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: '02 Civic DX, Wont start, help please?
Make sure he's aware of the bulletin I linked earlier. Not all are aware.
It's also listed in Alldata under Starting and Charging > Service Bulletins.
SN040802 08/01/2004 Engine Won't Start - Check Alternator Bolts
It's also listed in Alldata under Starting and Charging > Service Bulletins.
SN040802 08/01/2004 Engine Won't Start - Check Alternator Bolts
