kenzaoe

Hi guys,
new here... want to learn more about doing my own maintenance as my 2003 civic lx is now at 117k. got a printout for my dealer with some work that needs to be done and i want to check with the experts what things are doable by an amateur. i am pretty handy with tools... i've done a lot of house improvement, electric, carpentry, plumbing etc but never auto stuff

1. spark plugs $300
3. replace cracked/split compliance bushings ($600+ wheel alignment$150)
4. exchange dirty/discolored power steering fluid ($200)
5. replace upper and lower radiator hoses (based on time and miles) $325
6. broken front engine mount ($550 to replace)

1. I know the spark plugs are easy and I already ordered the parts.

6. I've read some posts about replacing the front engine mount, but it's not clear what's the best thing to do... buy ES inserts or just the replace the whole metal part? not really want to mould my owne polyurethane/epoxy.. Do I need to jack the car up/ support the engine in any way?

Any recommendations on the other items? Do I need to buy any tools for these jobs? jack stands for the engine mount? I already have a torque wrench.

Your feedback is much appreciated.

TreeFortRichard

2003 civic real-time DIY spark plug replacement...
[autostream]http://autostream.com/ibcivicforums/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=732&t ransactionid=1359263992-727040124&posted_by=_www.civicforums.com&youtube_v ideo_id=VbcieTii5xM[/autostream]

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

^
Hey look, that's my video

Spark plugs are so straight forward, I don't know why anyone would want to spend $300 rather than to do it themselves.
It's about $8 per NGK Iridium plugs, and about 30 mins worth of work in your garage/driveway.

Inspect the compliance bushings, if they're just cracked, they will be fine.
Most dealers recommend it because it's a big $$ maker.
They really only need to be replaced when they are destroyed.

You can flush/pump out/siphon old power steering fluid out, and top it off with new fluid.

$325 for radiator hoses?
Just buy the hoses, and replace em the next time you do a coolant drain and fill.

The only thing I would have someone do, is the engine mount replacement.

The prices for these things are kind of ridiculous, time to find a new dealership.

Matt_75

Yeah. I'd have to say if those are the price's you were quoted, than that's total bullshit. Even here in Hawaii, always expensive, I was quoted $450 for cracked/split compliance bushings including alignment.

Spark plugs...ridiculous pricing
upper and lower radiator hose....ridiculous pricing
broken front engine mount....ridiculous pricing

mikey1

spark plugs....do em yourself as long as you dont crossthread them or overtighten and strip the threads (don't laugh, its more common than you might think with amateurs)

bushings....not nessessary unless they are damaged, if so, NOT a job for an amateur

power steering fluid....you can syphon out, and refill, or if you want you can remove the pump and turn upside down, which will get more fluid out, make sure you DO NOT OVERFILL

rad hoses....you can do yourself, drain the system first, i will warn you they will be a B*TCH to remove, as they will be stuck on their good, might as well throw a new thermostat in while you have the system empty

engine mount....doable, as long as you know how to properly support the engine before you remove it

ezone

It was painful to watch the plug video. I kept thinking "Why in the h are you doing it that way? My way is so much faster!" LOL.



Everything on the list can be DIY if one is motivated enough.
It's ALL DIY for me.


Plugs, DIY, but the correct plugs are 100,000 mile plugs. Are they really needed?


Bushings, if they are torn completely, this allows the arm to move up and down and contact the subframe and make clunk noises.
Fix both sides at the same time, they both have the same # of miles on them.
Dealer will probably replace the arms complete. Much faster and less chance of error than trying to replace only the bushings from the old arms.
Alignment -YES- after this job.

PS fluid? This isn't even in the owners manual.
But even the janitor could accomplish that with very little chance of screwing it up.


Radiator hoses: PROVE they need replaced. (And if they want you to replace the radiator hoses, WHY DON'T they want you to replace the REST of the coolant hoses?)
They last the life of the car here, I'm thinking 15-20+ years and could be multiple hundreds of thousands of miles in that amount of time.
We do NOT live in a world of 4 year radiator hoses anymore.
However, if the car has been overheated or the hoses otherwise damaged, yes this shortens their lives. Top hose is most affected by an overheat.


Front motor mount (forwardmost mount, not the one in the way of the timing belt), I saw 66 McDoubles list price for OEM. DIY it.
Is it really bad?
Aftermarket mounts are usually harder than OEM and cause endless vibration complaints. Don't ask how I know this.
Jack stands to set the car on, floor jack and wood blocks to move the engine around if need be.



If you have a torque wrench, I'd assume you have amassed a collection of other hand tools prior to purchasing the torque wrench. Most people don't rush out and buy a torque wrench as their very first tool.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

That video was a while ago, that's how we do it without power tools :P
Pretty much do it the same way now.

kenzaoe

thanks all for the advice. i'll report back with my experience. going to harbor freight to get some jack stands now

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

I am a janitor and I did my own timing belt.. my motor didnt blow up either..

Damn teknishans..

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

I want to know how they came up with $550 for a front mount.. and most of the other seem highly inflated.. even for a dealer..

With enough time and money you can do anything..
your going to need at LEAST

-Jack
-Jackstands
-Basic socket/ratchet set
-Socket extensions
-Hammer
-Few assorted pliers are nice to have as well perhaps not needed though
-Magnetic tray is good to have
-Air tools are a blessing but again expensive and not necessary

1. spark plugs $300
Socket with an extension dont overtighten or you will strip the head.. BUY THE RIGHT PLUGS!! (They arent cheap, but they are the right ones..)

2. missing number 2 lol

3. replace cracked/split compliance bushings ($600+ wheel alignment$150)
A bit hard to do for DIY, but100% possible. You can either replace the whole LCA or push the bushings out with a ball joint press
(Rented at autozone) Pay attention to the orientation of the new bushings if you choose to do it this way, MARK THEM before removal use arrows on new ones..)
I didnt do a wheel alignment and everything was fine, if you havent done one in a long while it cant hurt but its not necessary.

4. exchange dirty/discolored power steering fluid ($200)
Grab a turkey baster and suck it out and pour in new.. turn steering lock to lock until the noise/bubbles are gone (bubbles come out sorta foamy) Id use OEM fluid, but thats just me. You just saved and easy 200 beans, buy a 6 pack.. or 10

5. replace upper and lower radiator hoses (based on time and miles) $325
Leave them alone, theres nothing wrong with them..I have 130+k on mine and even my original clamps..
Theres a better chance of your cap being bad then your hoses..

6. broken front engine mount ($550 to replace)
Shouldnt take more then 15 minutes to do..they are tight, buy a "good" OEM mount..seems they break over time no matter what but you dont need to support the engine to do it, you DO need to jack up the can and use JACKSTANDS!!

kenzaoe

How many should I get. Are 2 enough?

I ordered 4 of these ones and a gap tool. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8MYY2

Any recommendation on jacks?
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-c...ack-68783.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-h...ack-66450.html

How about the jackstands?
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-h...nds-38846.html

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

$12 for laser platinums?
I think I paid $8~10 for NGK Iridiums.

I have a 2 ton big red trolley jack, and 2 AC Delco jack stands,

ezone

[quote=kenzaoe;4631147]If you are only going to jack up one end of the car, then make sure you think you can trust your LIFE with whatever stands you get (2 should be fine).
ALL NGK plugs come pre-gapped. The number 11 at the end of the plug number indicates 1.1mm gap.
The sleeve around the threads is there to protect the electrodes if the box got dropped.
You had better not need to gap the plugs.
You do not gap precious metal plugs with a gap wheel EVER. You will damage the fine tip. Most people will just ruin the plugs altogether.

If you MUST change the gap, this is the preferred simple tool and method:

I'd pick MADE IN USA, not China.

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

You can get nice used USA jack stands on craigslist, but its all up to you..
I dont trust chinese jackstands, and USA ones are VERY expensive new..
Thats just me..really depends on what your looking to spend..(all my jackstands are from craigslist)

Just use them safe..for the work your doing you only need 2..but I think I have like 6 in my garage..really depends on what you plan on doing in the future..

Any jack will work for a Civic really..I sometimes work on heavier trucks/minivans, pickups.
I have the 2 ton standard (non rapid pump) jack from Harbor Freight, I paid something like $80(Think its discontinued now)..It is honestly an amazing jack for what I paid for it. Jacks arent as important to me as jackstands.. I dont trust my life with a jack (NEVER go under with just a jack), but with a jackstand I do..
Again depends what your looking to spend, personally I wouldnt get the bottle jack rather the trolly jack.

The bigger jacks are able to raise the car higher..just something to think about if you have extra money to spend.

HF sells some tire chocks as well if you feel the need to use them..

You can never be too safe.

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

Those are the correct plugs, they are pre gapped dont touch the gap like ezone said..save that tool for something else..

Also dont drop them into the cylinders as that will change the gap put them in gently.

kenzaoe

thanks all. i feel i am getting an education here.

i was looking to buy replacement LCAs and the honda parts sites have them for around $170 each
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/oem-p.../51350-s5a-a20

i found a bunch of cheaper ones here:
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto...html?3594=1965

Are these brands ok? Dorman? Beck/Arnley?

( replacing just the bushings seems not worth it laborwise and I don't have easy access to a press. this video was pretty good at showing the process )

ezone

No idea about brands.


Options: You gotta pull the arms off anyway......

Use a large bench vise (with various sockets and tubes, etc.) to squish (press) the bushings in.
OR
Carry your arms in to any machine shop and have them press the bushings.

Bushings plus a little labor is still probably cheaper than complete LCAs. (I did not do the math here, YMMV.)

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

You could always pull em off and bring em to a shop, or use a balljoint press and vice..lol thats what I did..

kenzaoe

An update on this...
I replaced the spark plugs and the front engine mount. It really took me just an hour for both operations.
Broken mount:

New shiny mount:


I inspected the radiator hoses and they are in great shape. (never trust the dealer ever again) The compliance bushings have some hairline cracks in them but they are still solid I will keep inspecting them and when necessary I will replace them.

When I took the photos I also noticed some hairline cracks in the front manifold/converter assembly just above the oxygen sensor. Is this something to worry about?


Thank you all for the information and inspiring me to learn this and do it.
This coming weekend I will change the PS fluid and touch up some paint chips on the front hood. Do people use any kind of primer or just add the paint?

.. and also diagnose my low idle speed (700rpm) I found a good write-up here.

Is it a good idea to invest in a code reader? Any recommendations?

mikey1

cracks in the manifold are not all that uncommon.....

if you want to fix it i would suggest removing the manifold yourself, bring it to a shop and have them weld the crack

ezone

Right now, I don't think it is worth messing with.....I'd wait until it is making noise and stinks of raw exhaust just after first startup......if it were mine.

Someone here said it can be brazed? I might braze it shut a couple times after that crack opens up (as long as it doesn't set P0420 code) just because it is so expensive to replace the cat.

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps getting it welded up now will save hassel in the long run? (prevent it from getting bigger, and spreading)

Biscuit

To properly repair that crack on the manifold you need to first stop-drill the ends of the cracks.
You must then grind a bevel into the crack along its length and then weld it shut.

Nathan

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

This sounds pretty legit.