fusion158

iTrader: (2)

My 04 civic ex (129,300 miles) has been due a good service for months now but no job until 2 months ago meant no money to carry it out. However in that time I have spent hours on this forum reading the tutorials and making a list of parts to get. I am going to order parts in the next day or so but I just want to get someone to check over my list to make sure I am not missing anything. I am planning on doing the following jobs:

Timing belt
Alternator/Compressor belt
Power steering pump belt
Valve clearance check and adjustment
Coolant flush
Oil and oil filter
Throttle body cleaning
Spark plugs

I have make up a list of parts that I need and I just want to make sure there is nothing missing on the list before I make the order:

2 gallons distilled water
2 gallons honda collent 50/50 type 2
Timing belt
Autotensioner
Water pump
Power steering pump drive belts
Compressor & alternator belt
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Oil pan drain washer
Bosch oil filter
valve cover gasket & Spark plug seals
Permatex tube high-temp red RTV silicone
Cam seal
Crank seal
Engine block coolant drain plug washer 28mm
Radiator drain plug
Radiator drain plug washer

Now, up until now the car has been running non-synthetic oil 5W-20 as per the manual. I want to start using fully synthetic oil from now on. I have read in a few places that when moving to synthetic I should use a slightly heavier oil. My question is, should I stick with 5W-20 or go for something like 5W-30?

Also a couple of weeks ago, I got a check engine light that went off after a few miles. I pulled the error code and got a P0134 which is the Air/Fuel ratio sensor from what I have read. Could someone confirm that I am ordering the correct part listed here, Number 18 on the diagram, part number 36531-PLR-003
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...PIPE+-+MUFFLER

If there is anything else I should look into doing or any advice that would make this job go easier please let me know. Thanks in advance

mikey1

if the timing belt has never been changed, you are way overdue, i wouldnt drive it much longer, you are taking a big gamble by doing so,

i dont see the timing belt tensioner spring listed there, you should replace that also,

if you are taking the water pump off, there is no need to remove the rear block drain plug, the coolant will all come out when you remove the water pump, have a large drain pan underneath to catch it,

no real need to replace the rad drain plug or washer,

i would NOT recommend going to synthetic at that mileage, i would recommend a high mileage standard motor oil,

Matt_75

I'll throw my .02 in on this one.

If you switch to fully synthetic, there's a good chance that you'll develop a leak some where. I say this because fully synthetic oil has detergents in it that are going to clean all the crusty stuff away, including crusties that may have been keeping a seal from leaking. And I'm not saying don't switch, but be prepared to deal with leaks if they occur.

This above is from my own experience when I changed to fully synthetic at about 75k miles. I developed a leak from the oil pump and it wasn't the crank seal but the outlet behind the oil pump that goes to the filter. That involved taking all the timing belt stuff off, dropping the exhaust and the oil pan to get the oil pump off.

20W vs 30W doesn't matter IMO. People will tell you should absolutely use a 20W oil. The only reason these cars recommend and use 20W oil is fuel mileage period. I've read there's less than a 5% difference in fuel economy when using a 20W vs a 30W in a perfect world lab environment where everything is exactly the same. The real world, you'll never know the difference in fuel economy. I've been running 30W fully synthetic oil for a couple years now and can't tell any difference in fuel mileage.

Again just my .02.

ezone

(Spellcheck fail.)
You don't need the water. The 50/50 coolant is premixed.

I wouldn't change it until the next t-belt job, but that's me.
I would only use a factory part, no aftermarket.
I would replace the spring that goes with it.
Proper torque on that bolt. The last thing you need is for that to strip or break.

"Hondabond" or Permatex Ultra Gray.
I hate red, it screams "amateur".

No, no, no.
Block is emptied when the pump is pulled. Don't touch the block drain plug.

Radiator plug and gasket are reused. You don't remove it either, you just back it out a couple turns until liquid starts flowing and stop.


I'd keep using the same oil you already have been using. As long as maintenance is done in a timely manner, I kinda think the benefits don't outweigh any costs. The engine can live a long life on ordinary oil.
(I don't buy the synthetic = leak ideas either. The seals were old and hardened and needed replaced anyway. LOL)

My mom had an 86 Accord......Dad switched it from 5-30 to 5-20 and gained a couple MPG consistently.


P0134: yes that's the right sensor -- if you picked the right car.

HTH

mikey1

i think he is planning on flushing with the water, although i dont think its nessessary

ezone

Yeah, I wouldn't flush it either.
Radiator and block drained will be a good 90% of the system capacity.

fusion158

iTrader: (2)

The timing belt was replaced once before as far as I know. Wife has had the car since new and I only moved over here in January so still getting to know the cars history.
I should have listed the tensioner as the belt tensioner kit that includes the spring.

Yes, I was planning on flushing the system, it was linked as part of the timing belt guide I found on the forum. I'm not sure on the condition of the coolant so that's why i was planning the flush.

Thanks for the confirmation on the sensor, definitely sure I picked the right car

As for the oil I will sick with 5W-20. As for synthetic or non-synthetic I will think a little more on it. In one hand I would like to avoid leaks, however on the other I would like for weak or almost worn seals to be made known now so I can get them replaced. Decisions decisions